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Subaru tool # J.o.n.o.


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Thanks. It is MK one. Steam pipe was going to be shorter, capped with washer and 17 mm but welded but engine box stand and tube socket spanners inspired the hole for removable turning handle of choice

 

Took three sets of m6 tapped holes to get snug fit

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I presume this is used when the front diff is removed?

 

I can't see how the diff stub axle would fit in the pipe's hole.

 

I've always found gentle persuasion with a flat end pin punch and a mallet does the job ;)

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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or just the seal is replaced or adjusting preload.

 

I thought the pic expressed enough.... see the traditional doughnu/flange appearance at bottom of pic ?

It is a 35mm hole in the 82mm disc normally meant for hand rail construction. The steam pipe is hollow.

 

The flange fits flush against "differential side retainer" the ends of the M6 bolts fit snug in to the numerous spaces between the fingers you are so happy to belt around with punch and mallet Bennie :)

 

I found the bearing shells that did not want to come out, just bloody fell out and not want to go back in very well at all on their own. Thought I'd wind them in. If I was to weld washer and nut to end of steam pipe, pipes length only needs be 40 or 40 mm long to clear stub axle. Simplified design, reducing parts and work involved. Boilermaker friend zapped it with his industrial mig in seconds about ten mm a side, enough torsional strength in it to use as a tow hitch ! :D   Onya DAVID !!

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No need to belt these when using a pin punch and mallet. Patience is key.

 

And yeah I may not have been very good at gauging the scale of that pic. I was also thinking of the 25 spline stub size as this is physically larger than the 23 spline stub. I'd reckon it'd be a more universal tool if made to fit the 25 spline stub axle.

 

Much like your gearbox stand it's a cool idea and looks much more graceful than my rear bearing retainer bolt remover mk1...

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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I just span open a large pair of channel locks (tongue and groove pliers)

 

I turn them so the tips of the jaws fit into the tabs on the retainer.  They usually spin right out,

 

Make sure to use either a new O-ring or smear RTV sealant on the threads of the retainer when reinstalling.

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Guess what Bennie - it is more universal - 35mm hole - was keeping 25 in mind and the smaller 'retainers' of MY boxes

 

I think I will also get a better 'feel' of the thread being able to turn this way - simple enough tool to make now its nutted out and on display :)

 

New $5.80 O rings are at hand.

Edited by jono
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Don't forget to lube the O ring with some rubber grease. You don't want them to be chewed out by two dry metal surfaces during fitment ;)

 

Expensive rubbers to shag a set out and have to do it all again!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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