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NO POWER IN LOYALE


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Ok need my manuals, they are at home.

 

Another thing check one of those good ones, but with the key in run position.

 

If it stays good, that indicates that you don't have a flakey connection in that first level of circuitry.

 

If the power goes away, you back track toward the battery.

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Power goes to the ignition switch on a fat white wire.  Power to the engine & ECU etc.  is a Black wire.  Should only be 12V when ignition is in run and start positions. 

 

It goes to the 3 fuses for:

Meter Engine

IG-COIL FUEL ECC

Back Turn 4WD AT

 

Those should all have 12V with the key in run & start positions.

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So the power at the fuses listed in post #25 is gone, as well as nothing in post #28?

Have to start testing back toward the battery.  Starting to sound like a corroded or broken connection.

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That points to something at the fusible link box.

 

Power has to go through the links to get to the fuse box.

 

Careful inspection. All the connections need to be clean metal, no corrosion. The metal tabs can be removed. You want to check that the crimps are good also.

 

I made a tool for removing the contacts from fuse blocks connectors, etc. From one of the stainless steel strips on the side of some windshield wiper blades. Depending on the particular connector, grind some width or thickness down so it fits - there is a plastic catch on the housing or a metal tab on the contact. Use the stainless steel strip to get into there and to release it.

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Trying to run one of these old cars, you have to know or learn how to fix everything or have a load of cash to pay one of the rare places that will work on them.

 

I'm guessing you are nowhere near Connecticut

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Seems like you've got a place to start... And that's at least something.

 

I'm hoping you checked those fusible links properly - they may be solid/not broken but they can still be dead.

 

All the best with it. Don't give up!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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I'm not a pro mechanic.  But I have been maintaining and repairing my EA82s since 1988. 

Electronics engineer.  I was designing and building electric and electronics since before high school.

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I actually was testing the links wrong, I was tired retested them and they are all showing 12.5. Just nothing to the fuses key in or off

 

nothing to any fuses?  or nothing to the ones that should get "key on" voltage?

 

If the latter, the problem is at the ignition switch.

 

If the former, the main wire to teh cabin.

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It's not a relay problem. Some of the fuses have power all the time. Some only when key is on run position. There is a relay for some other circuits also, but it doesn't matter if you don't have the always on and the switched power from the ignition switch.

 

Anyone have scans of the schematic online?

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Some of the fuses are switched by the ignition switch. So, yes, if there were an open circuit between the always on feed to or from the ignition, switch, it could cause the switched fuses to never get power.

 

The always powered ones are not effected by the ignition switch, the are fed directly from the fusible links.

 

A wire could be broken inside, or a connection or crimp could be loose and corroded, causing the intermittent troubles.

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id replace your fuseables just in case.  i have had issues with other vehicles from faulty but not fully broken fuseables causing the cpu to fail safe and not power up.  still had juice but it was intermittent weirdness and no start or even crank over.  I doubt it will solve your problem but worth the $6 to me.  keep the ones you pull in a baggy for emergency use.

 

I'm certainly not the electrical person here, but have you unplugged the AC unit and bypassed the belt that drives it?  if its fully locked up or otherwise faulty who knows what it is contributing to.

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