DaveT Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 After all these years, I finally had to get this figured out. I could never get the outer CJV apart to properly clean it out when a boot failed and dirt got in. So I set the ones that were too contaminated aside. Never had to worry too much for years, because used OEM axles were not hard to get. I always re grease and reboot them. The only [few] non OEM axles I have came on cars I bought. I always had extra axles, due to cars being retired due to rust. I save the entire drive line, scrap the rusted out shell. Came across a video on youtube - Take a piece of 2x6 a foot long, drill a 1-1/8" hole in the center. Slip it over the axle, after removing the inner DOJ. Clamped the axle in a bench vise, with the CVJ pointing down, with some padding under. One moderate hit with my bigger ball peen hammer on the wood block popped the CVJ right off! Also got a pack of the silicon universal CVJ boots, so far so good with those. Need those to rebuild my turbo axles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Yeah, I've always just used my trusty old brass drift on the inner race. But you can't be shy about hitting it. That sounds like it applies more even pressure. I'd really like to try the silicone boots too. What brand did you get? I imagine a world where CV boots last 20 years/200k miles... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 When i worked at a shop that rebuilt axles we just chucked it up in the vice and smacked it with a BFH but that 2x6 idea shounds nice i dont usaly take that joint apart though unless i have to the silicone boots are definitly the way to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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