jono Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 As I tension up the first bolt of the two half cases the drive pinion starts to become notchy.as i turn it. On first assembly with all locating pins and cross case bolts in and torqued up the drive pinion was stuck fast. I am thinking to remove front diff from equation, or try another rhs housing Everything inside is snug, both halves fit nicely This drive pinion needs to spin smoothly Any experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Cases are in pairs so don't swap them around. Make sure the pinion shaft bearing locating pin is locking in place correctly. you may also have to recheck your diff backlash/preload settings. One trick could be backing the side bearing tensioners off a set amount and remember this to readjust properly once the cases are all bolted together up to spec. All the best Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 You answered one question there then Bennie. The locating pin that doubles as reverse idler shaft retainer is called a straight pin in the manuals. The straight pin for the pinion shaft is not protruding as much as expected nor the one above it. Some background. I have had this box apart once before, cases together but could not sort the diff bearings out, so pull apart, add some seals for good measure. Now , when the two cases went back together, there was an ever so slight rock centreing over the centre. Torque the bolts fixed that, maybe in more ways than I care ! Its almost as if the straight pin was punched in too far. I am have no choice but to swap the case pair from the 23 splines stubs donor box This is awd dual range but it is not the usual 19 and 23 toothed cogs of the hi lo Only 19 and 20 like later EJ low *cough* range Bloody learning exercise I really don't want or need at the moment. I just wanna get this 12 year old idea done and dusted :( Deal with locating pin first, then diff backlash Thanks Bennie. I know you are a decade ahead of me on gearboxes and EJ conversions EJ22 sits in a sealed box in a shed for old age I suspect I may just have to find a , what was it Greg ? early 2.0 Foz box and give it some EA cases Just pulled my first ex Disco, ex Subareck awd box's centre diff out as when I checked its specs it was nice n tight Only when playing with latest did I suspect something wicked was on with my first awd centre diff Toasted, rooted ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 August this year is 10 years on my EJ conversion from memory. And five or six years with the modified AWD box. One year involved a rebuild where a few things changed and more learning occurred in the department of the subtle differences between the phase1 and phase2 gearboxes... The L AWD box originally didn't come with the good 1.59:1 low range. I can't remember the teeth count on these gear sets. These boxes only ever had the 1.19:1 low range from factory. Good for some street racing or rallying on tight courses I believe. I hope it all goes back together properly for you. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 I was hoping for note I timate knowledge on that locating pin. Trio range would be excellent !need to find pliers to grip that other pin of hi lo. Counter gear shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Now, let's find that pic ..... See how that locating pin has nearly dropped out of sight? I think I did that on assembly #2 where there was a slight rock of top casing and I figured the torque down would sort things I am giving up on this case set and going to use the cases of the box that I sourced my 23 splined stubs from Now, if anyone knows the length of this pin WOULD BE REALLY HELPFUL !! If I knew length I could borrow a right angled drill, get just under it with a screwdriver and push it back in correct position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Ok, I think this relates to your other thread here. That pin has recessed into the hole where the selector shaft should be. This means you should be able to get something that's hook like (or something with a U on the end) to push that pin back up where it should be to then pull it out. I get this from the pic of mine below: You can see where a spring is in the hole for the selector shaft should be and the pin is still in it's original location. All of this came out and was reassembled after drying off from the wash it copped. I don't have a gearbox apart here, but I have a set of halves at m&d's that I could dig up next time I'm down there. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Thanks Bennie, I must have been too preoccupied with things to see this post of your industrial strength drying rack and notes. Now thatI have four or is it five? various boxes in bits about the place ( could be aasking for a really bad rebuild there ) i now have a LHS case i need not care about, 5R shift rod out - cannot see either a direct line from outside up into detent spring ball and plug hole to under the locating pin that has sunk into its safety bunker. So some right angle drilling will likely take place. BTW, i am writing in international English am i not? Was expecting input from oud host country ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Only pulled two capsule shaped interlock plungers but three are shown on diagram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Wonder if a really strong magnet could move that pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Not if it is a press fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Weld something to it to get it out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) If its a blind hole drill a tiny hole at right angle to it approx where the bottom would be then use a rubber tipped airgun to blow it out. If air doesn't move it then hydraulic pressure with a grease gun could. Did this to remove a broken cross pin bolt stub in a Chevy diff yrs ago - it works. Edited June 24, 2018 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Ok. So what if I used an emoji ?!! Somehow can't delete it even though touching it gave it a square nwse halo, then a blue square, still could not x it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) Yep czny , precisely but still need the rare genius to come up with knowing where to drill said hole. So far nobody stating the length of this little sucker I tried to order a new pin. No such part number. Dealer says in the day if you ordered a new case get the pin already installed I don't know, where have all the knowledgeable ones gone? Edited June 24, 2018 by jono Edit silly ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, jono said: Yep czny , precisely but still need the rare genius to come up with knowing where to drill said hole. So far nobody stating the length of this little sucker Page 1575 of 25th edition of Machinery Handbook states that: "the general rule is to use dowel-pins of the same size as the screws for fastening the work. The length of the dowel-pin should be about one and one-half to two times its diameter in each plate or part to be doweled." What dia. is that dowel? 5 or 6 mm? From the pic I'm guessing 6 mm. Common lengths at McMaster-Carr are here:https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-dowel-pins/=1dfabqo Try feeling for the dowel end with a strong pickup magnet thru the brg web perhaps? Only has to be light enough press fit to hold it firmly & this should allow air or grease/hydraulic action to push it out. Edit: Is it the pic or is there a small flat on that dowel? If so, air or grease won't get it. Back to your leverage ideas. Edited June 24, 2018 by czny Seeing things. (ha ha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Jono, not an industrial drying rack - an old ironing board without the cover, awesome for this type of work As for that little pin, it might be in there for good - if there's no access hole via the gear selector shaft's hole it's time for some right angled drilling (I just got one of these units from bunnings, good piece of kit to have but you will need to by hex ended drill bits ) If you've got five boxes in bits, why can't you pull one of these pins from one of those boxes to get it's size? Are you sure you've put the correct pin in there to being with? You could try putting this case half inside an oven (because I know you've got a big oven!) or on top of a decent wood heater (from cold then crank the heat to warm the case up slowly) to see if the expanding alloy case will let go of and drop the pin out for you - just make sure it's laying down so gravity will help the pin drop out Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Guess what readers. The pin is 6.00mm diameter. I don't think Fuji followed anyones rules .... I have tried rare earth finger clanging magnets to no avail. I did get the heat gun from its packaging and warmed up the casing , and figuring if you grabbed the metal pin with ice cold Vise Grips with really good teeth, it must shrink it enough to come out ...And I got the little sucker. Yee..bloody..HA ! Milwaukee'd the hole in the side, all on a spare gearbox casing 3/16 hole ....US not supply metric hex drive drill bits in Oz yet My supply of grease nipples is pre metric, probably before Australian threads made a stand against Whitworth, so popped into SCA and found someone had pilfered one of two M6 nipples in a two pack. Suited me ..needed one...paid for just one Giving credit to CZNY for this approach...it is a long time since I have used grease to hydraulic things out. This little sucker is 8.00 mm long. In practice unit I marked out 10mm below surface and drilled the 3/16 and like any seasoned tunneler - came up at perfect spot, tearing the dimpled bottom out of the locating pins hole !! More later, when things are done 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Good stuff mate! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Nice! Glad to have helped! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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