xdeadeye1 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) Had the engine out , did the heads and timing belt , et all. about 2 months ago. Runs fine, Has a tick to it when im going up a hill , acceleratinig,, then it dies down. Tick meaning I think its valve tick. BUt I had sent my heads to a shop for machining and I think he went over valves too. So Idk what that's about. 2. On start up, It has a rumble to it. About 25 % of the time I hear an actual thud. like something hitting the floorboard. But it starts and runs fine. 3. Especially if its been sitting, after I start it, and put it in reverse,, I back up. Then it takes about 5 secs before it actually engages in drive. I don't hit the gas during this time,, I just wait the weird lenth of time before I feel it engage after I shift into drive. 4. Breaking. It stops. But I feel like the front brakes are doing Everything. Just feels like I don't have enough braking power going on. Any suggestions of things I should look at or solutions to common issues ,, IS APPRECIATED! Thanks. John Marietta, OH Edited June 13, 2018 by xdeadeye1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) knock sensor might be cracked /bad - not uncommon on older soobs and may not set a code. Affects power and can cause the car to tick/knock under load......cheap ebay sensors work for most folks. If the tick is better/gone with high octane fuel, almost certainly the knock sensor is bad. You could also have excess carbon build-up. thud? worn bushings or motor or trans mount maybe....check the bushings at the rear of the front lower control arm especially, lots of force there. check trans fluid level and condition - you must check the level while idling, after moving the shifter thru each gear. Top up 1/2 pint at a time, the marks are NOT 1qt. apart. On older soobs, some folks can cure delayed engagement by using Trans-X, might need some every year or 2. brakes are fairly simple and easy to work on, but there are a LOT of areas where things can need help. Run decent tires, do a good bleed, don't use 'economy' pads, name brand ceramic are probably the best. make sure calipers and other parts are free to move and brackets/bolts are secure, etc. Edited June 13, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: check trans fluid level and condition - you must check the level while idling, after moving the shifter thru each gear. Top up 1/2 pint at a time, the marks are NOT 1qt. apart. On older soobs, some folks can cure delayed engagement by using Trans-X, might need some every year or 2. brakes are fairly simple and easy to work on, but there are a LOT of areas where things can need help. Run decent tires, do a good bleed, don't use 'economy' pads, name brand ceramic are probably the best. make sure calipers and other parts are free to move and brackets/bolts are secure, etc. Well the Trans fluid is up to the right level, and I had just done a empty and fill / cheapo flush with 5 qt jug. I have no transmission issues while driving , no slippage. Ill be sure and bleed the brakes well, and check the movement of the calipers etc. I just wasn't sure if maybe there was a disfuctional valve that might be causing problems to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 (edited) try to drain some trans fluid; use a clean drain pan/container, put a quart of water in it, mark or make note of the level, dump and dry it. pull the plug on the trans, put plug back in after you drain a quart (yeah, it will be messy - you could use a transfer pump and suck fluid up the dipstick tube) put in a bottle of Trans-X, check the trans level, if still a little low, you have some fluid in your new clean container you can use to top-off. Edited June 16, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 3. Trans-X will fix the delayed engagement into drive issue. 1. The tick almost sounds like the front diff is making noise. Or the inner CV joints possibly - are the boots intact or are they aftermarket axles? Or are you positive this is an engine noise? 2. Rumble - describe better - does it do it once for one second or prolonged, does it go away, does it every time or just sometimes give us hard data on it Stand by the engine bay while someone else starts it - where’s it coming from ? 4. Brakes - easy - clean, regressed slides with Sil Glyde and throw the slide pin bushings away. Then flush the brake fluid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Rumble - I have yet to have a friend stand by the engine. It does it mainly on start up. for a second or so,, just when It turns over, then goes away. Yesterday I was on the highway and going about 72-74 using cruise control. As it went down the hill and the acceleration was off, I felt a rumbly bump by my feet. under the floor. You may be right about some mount or other. IDK. I had the engine out and the bottom engine mounts seemed ok. Knock/Tick - I definitely notice this on acceleration . If I let off I don't hear it. I was driving next to the jersey barrier with the window down and could hear it pretty plainly. I found knock sensors on ebay for like $8.25 shipped!! wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 (edited) noise while under load/accelerating is always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. Im sure there are simpler things that end up having this same description, so let’s hope you find that to be the case b Edited June 17, 2018 by idosubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 40 minutes ago, idosubaru said: noise while under load/accelerating is always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. im afraid I don't understand. I know the cv axles and the boots seemed fine,, I can check them again. The Differential has fluid in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) maybe exmaine the diff's drain plug magnet for chunks or excessive 'sludge' ? Edited June 18, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 On 6/17/2018 at 11:23 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said: maybe exmaine the diff's drain plug magnet for chunks or excessive 'sludge' ? "always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. " this is the same thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 (edited) 58 minutes ago, xdeadeye1 said: "always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. " this is the same thing? well, that quote is 2 things I guess. Inner front CV joint (DOJ or tripod joint) boots often split open and the joint can lose it's lubrication. Known for clunking or popping or other issues on it's way to failure. The front differential has it's own dipstick on the other side from the auto trans' stick. It also needs to be properly filled of course, but, it's drain plug is equipped with a magnet. If there is a reasonable fear the front diff is failing, that magnet may have excessively large particles or an excessive amount of metallic 'sludge' on it. Edited June 19, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 ok, thanks. The noise I hear goes totally away when I let off the gas. It doesn't decelerate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Regardless ng breaking power. I was rotating my wheels. I took some pics. Calipers look pretty rusted. Given its a 18 yr old car I figure I'll probably just get new rotors pads and calipers. I'm kinda concerned about the suspension parts and how they're rusted. Let me know your thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 specifically the joint by the rotor in the first picture. Just above the caliper.. Looks like it should move or slide left to right.. But that thing isn't going anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 bueler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 partial update. put thrans x in transmission fluid. The delayed engagement went away really quickly. As you can see in the picture of the brake rotor above. The caliper isn't engaging with the rotor. I pulled the caliper, the slide pins are moving easily. the caliper piston shoved back into the caliper. The rotors are wore out I believe. They are high along the edge of the rotor. you can really feel the wear with your hands, where the pad meets. Anyway.. The pads also seemed jammed in the hardware/bracket and don't move due to the high edge of the rotor. At least it seems that way. So im getting new rotors and pads and hardware. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxxRockatansky Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Looking at the pics, your brake rotors are done for, and it looks like the pads haven't been making proper contact, which is most likely the pads being more or less locked into the caliper mounts. When you replace the pads, make sure you either wire brush or carefully file the tracks for the pads to get rid of any rust/ crud buildup that is keeping them from sliding easily. Also remember to lube the caliper pins. If you are still looking for new ceramic pads and rotors, I found a matched 4 corner set for my 2K Legacy Wagon - should be same bits as the Outback - for just under $100 on flea-bay... there were a few sets for a bit less, but they didn't pass my muster. My rear rotors weren't as cooked as yours, but they did have at least that much of a rust ridge on the edges of the rotors when I bought my Subie 6 weeks ago, and I was going crazy from the major squealing coming from the pads from just going around turns (not even touching the brake!), so you may have been lucky that the pads weren't touching the rotors anymore!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) Thanks Maxx. I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads from rockauto. you are correct about the rear pads not making contact they were indeed stuck . on the back brakes I ground the edge of the pads to make them fit. On the front caliper brackets I did use a file and file down parts of the caliper, and the pads fit without grinding them. Driver front caliper (dual piston) had one piston sticking. I pulled the pistons and polished them up and replaced seals and boots. the one piston does have some minor pitting. I polished it up but idk how long before it rusts up and starts sticking again. Should have just replaced the calipers, but was trying to save money. Edited August 14, 2018 by xdeadeye1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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