First turbo engine pull - any differences vs NA engine?

[Deener2]

Hi Folks!

I am about to do a head gasket job on my 2010 Forester XT premium and I've never pulled a turbo engine before.  I am looking for any tips or tricks to be aware of.  I have done many ea82's and even non-turbo ej25 dohc and sohc's just never touched a turbo model.  It looks like I'll be cutting the A/C stretch belt and maybe just undoing the up-pipe to get it out...but the rest looks straightforward.

I am doing all the seals, gaskets, plugs, decking the heads, pcv etc, while its out but I just want to know if there are any special procedures for the pull due to the turbo.  Thanks in advance!

 

Dean

[montana tom]

Keep anything out of the turbo .  Use  tape over open holes , cap or plug the oil lines. Otherwise its just an EJ 2.5.

Why do you need to cut the a/c belt ?  If its a tight one just remove the adjuster assembly .

[wtdash]

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay.

Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses.

Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT??

 

Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG

 

Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

[Deener2]

17 hours ago, montana tom said:

Keep anything out of the turbo .  Use  tape over open holes , cap or plug the oil lines. Otherwise its just an EJ 2.5.

Why do you need to cut the a/c belt ?  If its a tight one just remove the adjuster assembly .

It's easier to cut the AC belt because it's a 'stretch fit' type belt, with no tensioner thing like the older models have.  You are encouraged to use a special tool to slip the belt over the crank.  I have done it before without the tool and it can be done with some patience and care.  Thanks for the tip about covering the turbo to keep it free of debris.   I never would've thought of that.

Edited June 16, 2018 by Deener2
spelling

[Deener2]

16 hours ago, wtdash said:

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay.

Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses.

Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT??

 

Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG

 

Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

The turbo is on top of the engine, passenger side.  I have thought about replacing it, but it's fairly easy to access, so if the shaft is still solid when I get it out, I will keep it for a while.  I do have some new banjo bolts without the screens that are going in for sure. 

I haven't gone down the turbo replacement rabbit hole yet...like which turbo I should replace it with, or just replace the turbine/guts or get a bigger one etc.  Ha ha - I fear that once I do, I'll be looking for other upgrade components, because you know...I like to go fast.  On that note, are there any suggestions on replacing/rebuilding the turbo?  If I need to start a new thread...happy to do so!

Thanks for the responses, guys. I really appreciate it.

[golucky66]

Overall it's fairly easy and similar to a NA. biggest thing I can say is be very careful of the air-fuel ratio sensor in the up pipe. At least on the legacy's it's stupidly close to the frame rail. Either remove it before the engine pull, or be very careful removing the engine. Easily can damage it.

[Deener2]

Cool, that makes sense.  Ill keep an eye on it!

[Deener2]

Well guys, there are a few things that I would like to note about these engines that I wasn't prepared for;

1.  Clamps.  Some of those factory clamps are the weird types that are put on with a special tool. Be prepared to find the proper tool to re-install them or buy a pile of various new worm gear clamps (lots of 20ish mm, a few closer to 30mm) to replace the factory weirdos.

2.  Breaking of bolts.  I am guessing that the extra heat from the turbo models had a role in me breaking so many bolts.  I am always very careful and have worked on many rusty loyales...however, one of the m6x1 bolts that hold the egr pipe on the back of the heads just sheared off with minimal pressure.  Had to heli-coil it because I drilled off-center (golf clap).  I also broke a bellhousing bolt.  It seized up halfway out, but I managed to get it out with a nut extractor, then chased it with an m10x1.25 tap.

3.  Cam sprocket bolts - again I suspect that heat played a role here but I had to drill all four of them and even after drilling past the bolt heads with cobalt bits, it took a 3 foot breaker bar and nut extractors to get the bolts off.  Attached is a pic of one of the cam bolts.  Lesson learned: buy the avcs cam sprocket tools.  I broke an old timing belt in four places trying to hold the cams in place with vice grips...so I wont try that method again.

4.  Avcs/oil feed to the turbo.  Not all of the banjo bolt ports are the same size.  There is one with a very tiny hole that bolts right on top of the turbo.  Good thing I took a ton of pics and labeled everything, otherwise I wouldn't have known where it went.

5.  Cam caps/carriers.  There are 4 bolts that hold the caps over top of each cam.  During dis-assembly, pay attention to which bolts go where.  Two have threads all the way down and two only have half threads.

6.  Fuel line connections.  There are special disconnect tools that you can buy that are supposed to help you disconnect the fuel lines.  I just used two right angled pick and slid them down the plastic clips.  If you put them in at 90 degrees to the little notches on the plastic, you can release the clips as I did, without the special disconnect tool.