Help, fuel leak in HP line under rear seat 2007 Forester

[bans25]

I have a fuel leak in a 2007 Forester under rear seat. Does any anyone know the line size (and type of flare) used on the Hight Pressure fuel line(yellow line in pic)? I need to make something up to fix this but do not want ot pull it apart (still using the car) until I have the parts I need.

Or is there a repair kit out there to fix this?

Thanks much, any help is appreciated.

 

[bans25]

Just to be clear, the leak is outside the car, not inside the car.. 

[mikec03]

I think that you have more of a problem then you think.  I don't recognize the type of connection on the high pressure line.  You have to figure out how to release it.  It may just be a compression fitting.  In other words, no flare.  It doesn't help you much, but on the older subarus, the connection was just a screw clamp.  But even after you disconnect it, it appears that the carbon steel tube is the part that is leaking.   You are probably going to have to pull pull the whole pump assembly and replace it from one from the junk yard.

[1 Lucky Texan]

pretty sure there's a special tool - but maybe there's a work-around?

[GeneralDisorder]

On that style you just press in on the white plastic tabs and it will pull off. It's a special end on the pipe that you can't replicate with any reasonably priced tooling that I know of. You are going to have to replace that with some braided stainless hose and do some metric bubble flares to either swivel fittings or barb fittings, etc. This isn't going to be easy really. You might want to seek professional help. 

GD

[bans25]

If i knew the style of the flare, i was hoping i could find a lenth of tube that has this flare on one end and i can bubble flare the other end and patch it in..  i am pretty sure looking at this i need to do something like this.  Does anyoen have any rust free part cars laying around that could cut a section of pipe? :).

 

 

[heartless]

the metal nipple is the part that is leaking - not the actual hose. that nipple is a part of the pump assembly. you can see the crack just above the connector.

If it were me, I would be buying roughly 8-10 feet of hp fuel injection hose of the appropriate diameter - enough to go from the tank to where it connects up front and some quality hose clamps.

remove the existing hose from the nipple & carefully cut off the end of the nipple with the connector - close to where that yellow cover is...I suggest a hacksaw blade for this.

use the existing hose to help you feed the new hose through the gap, and route it up to the front.

once you have everything routed & properly attached to the car - slide a couple of quality hose clamps over the hose & slip the new hose over that metal nipple until it covers the whole thing - move the clamps down over the where the nipple is & secure them.

attach were needed up front.

Done.

Either that, or get a new/used pump assembly in better condition as already suggested.

[GeneralDisorder]

Naw - just cut the hose off back behind the quick connect and patch in a section of tubing with a flare, and a flare to barb fitting. The trick is going to be finding anything that's metric. Metric tubing, metric flaring tools, etc are tough to find in the US and expensive. That's likely about 8mm metric tubing but definitely measure. You need this, but in metric for whatever tubing size you are dealing with:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-824550

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

seems like it would be a good idea to be as clean as possible, or install an aftermarket filter 'downstream'?

[uniberp1]

On 6/21/2018 at 11:19 AM, GeneralDisorder said:

Naw - just cut the hose off back behind the quick connect and patch in a section of tubing with a flare, and a flare to barb fitting. The trick is going to be finding anything that's metric. Metric tubing, metric flaring tools, etc are tough to find in the US and expensive. That's likely about 8mm metric tubing but definitely measure. You need this, but in metric for whatever tubing size you are dealing with:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-824550

GD

How much harder and tricky would it be to replace the entire fuel line?
Exact same problem on my 99
Also, the idea of a complete rubber hose to the filter up front, where it seems to be hose clamped, seems reasonable.

This part seems available, but you never know until you order it. $38 bucks.

https://www.certifiedsubaruparts.com/p/Subaru__Forester/PIPE-DELIVERY/49249562/42065FC080.html

. 

Edited November 9, 2019 by uniberp1

[GeneralDisorder]

I've never tried. It's not uncommon for us to replace entire sections of supply line with nylon braided AN lines for higher volume applications. Mitsubishi EVO's have small feed/return lines and need to be upgraded at about 500 WHP or so. Look at the kits for this - they use braided AN hose for the supply and use the old supply as the return. 

Armored hose, properly installed and secured with grommets where needed, is perfectly acceptable in our opinion. 

GD

[uniberp1]

On 11/9/2019 at 12:43 PM, uniberp1 said:

How much harder and tricky would it be to replace the entire fuel line?
Exact same problem on my 99
Also, the idea of a complete rubber hose to the filter up front, where it seems to be hose clamped, seems reasonable.

This part seems available, but you never know until you order it. $38 bucks.

https://www.certifiedsubaruparts.com/p/Subaru__Forester/PIPE-DELIVERY/49249562/42065FC080.html

.(ed.Turns out the online dealer had grossly underestimated shipping ($11 vs. $352) and cancelled the order.)

So back to DIY.

The line snapped off in my hand as I tried to release the clip, exactly at the point in the pict at top below the yellow pipe.

I bought a 5/16 brake line, a 5/16 compression fitting, a 5/16 tapered seat  and a 5/16 barb with 1 sharp ring about as long as the pic at summit.

...Next day: barb insert failed... inserting a barb into a nylon line without special tools is not possible.
Mating a 5/16 brake line to 8mm Subaru oem fuel line works just fine using a 5/16 compression fitting. Hard metal connection.

Next step: There is now a 5/16 male inverted flare at the end of the fuel line by the right rear wheel. I will run a new 5/16 fuel injection rubber hose to the tank, with a flare barb on the forward end and just shove it on the outlet tube on the sender and clamp the spoob out of it, I guess.

If I just disconnect the front tank straps and lower the front will I be able to fish the new HP rubber tube through to the left side?

 

Edited November 19, 2019 by uniberp1

[uniberp1]

On 11/16/2019 at 12:04 PM, uniberp1 said:

So back to DIY.

The line snapped off in my hand as I tried to release the clip, exactly at the point in the pict at top below the yellow pipe.

I bought a 5/16 brake line, a 5/16 compression fitting, a 5/16 tapered seat  and a 5/16 barb with 1 sharp ring about as long as the pic at summit.

...Next day: barb insert failed... inserting a barb into a nylon line without special tools is not possible.
Mating a 5/16 brake line to 8mm Subaru oem fuel line works just fine using a 5/16 compression fitting. Hard metal connection.

Next step: There is now a 5/16 male inverted flare at the end of the fuel line by the right rear wheel. I will run a new 5/16 fuel injection rubber hose to the tank, with a flare barb on the forward end and just shove it on the outlet tube on the sender and clamp the spoob out of it, I guess.

If I just disconnect the front tank straps and lower the front will I be able to fish the new HP rubber tube through to the left side?

 

I achieved a solid fix on this. 5/16 Dorman compression fittings will work on the subaru 8mm fuel line.

No pics yet, it's been snowy or rainy since.

The big trick is to route the new fuel line forward and to the right of the fuel pump cover, outside the interior, along the brake lines. I used a piece of wire to lead it through until I could see it from beneath, then routed it in front of the rear subframe and over the driveshaft cover.

Parts needed, I got everything I needed at a local car parts:
1 - 5/16 double compression fitting, like dorman 490-024.1
1 - 5/16 Inverted Flare Barb with Male Connector - like Dorman 785-402D
1 - 12" 5/16 steel brake line with inverted flare fittings.
1 - double 5/16 female inverted flare union. Another Dorman part

6 feet of 5/16 high pressure fuel injection hose.
A tubing bender is advisable. You're going to make a couple of 90 degree bends in the steel tube.

1. Remove the back seat, and remove the reinforcing bar that sits over the fuel lines.
2. Using a small tube cutter, cut the 8mm steel fuel line at a straight section. The other end may be rusted off, or leaking, cut it off so it doesn't hang. 
3. The compression fitting will JUST fit on the 8mm. Tap it gently.
4. Cut one end from the brake line and put a  couple 90 degree bends in it to fit approximately where the original went. Assemble the compression union.
5. Assemble the remaining barb and flare coupling, using solid band hose clamps.

The other trick, for security, at the tank end of the hose, is to split and notch the hose, so it can be pushed over the catch bulge on the steel line from the pump.
Put one clamp below the bulge and one above it, to secure it from blowing off.

This has held for a month or so, with no signs of slipping.

 

Edited December 9, 2019 by uniberp1

[Curly Christine]

My husband was able to make a 2008 WRX fuel line work. I know it’s impossible to find the aluminum fuel line that runs on the inside of the car for a 2007 since it’s been discontinued. Just letting everyone know! 

[GeneralDisorder]

None of the fuel lines are aluminum. 

And rotted out fuel lines are ridiculous. If you experience this you clearly live in a vehicular wasteland very close to the gates of hell. 

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

year old thread

Maybe it was a brake line that got replaced?

[MrC7]

We have a leak where the yellow hose attaches to the base of the gas tank, do you know what that black part is called or if there is a way to seal it?