Speedwagon Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 1987 Brat, EA81 engine, EA82 SPFI conversion. Months ago, it didn't restart when I shut down to put gas in. I towed it home, and somewhat ignored it. One day I tried to start it, and it did. The next time I tried to start it, it didn't again. Which is where it's at now, no start. And it's not getting spark. I tested the coil, which is in spec. It has 12V at the primary connections. I tested that there is voltage going to the crank sensor, which reads 12, 5, 5, 0V on the 4 wires going to it. When I put a test light on the primary side of the coil, I see no indication that either is disconnecting while I crank it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Intermittent start problems... Maybe it is a bad wire. Check the wire from the coil to the distributor. May also want to check other wires for possible break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Nippondenso disributor? Reddish cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Maybe doing look at conversion..fusible links? It turn over? You not saying specifically Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Hitachi distro, with the 4 wire optic crank angle sensor. Yes, it has fusible links. It cranks all day long, but doesn't get any spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Crank angle sensor could be dead Got any codes happening? Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 It is just flashing 6 fast with the key in the on position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 6 fast is the no code code. All codes for trouble are 2 digit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Is the distributor rotor turning when you crank ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) 9 hours ago, Speedwagon said: It is just flashing 6 fast with the key in the on position. Yeah I think 6 is just saying it's a Canada or California 5MT. a spec code, not a trouble code. From Le book: Edited June 25, 2018 by Brianmitchtay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 6 hours ago, Dee2 said: Is the distributor rotor turning when you crank ? Yes, it turns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 3 hours ago, Brianmitchtay said: Yeah I think 6 is just saying it's a Canada or California 5MT. a spec code, not a trouble code. From Le book: Is that a factory manual? Does it have a procedure for testing the crank sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 17 hours ago, Speedwagon said: Is that a factory manual? Does it have a procedure for testing the crank sensor? Yes it certainly is, let me pull it back out and see if it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Ok so far as I can tell, in the SPFI section of the fuel injection chapter there's some info on troubleshooting the two possible trouble codes, 11 (no reference pulse) and 13 (no position pulse). also a wiring diagram of the sensor. I'll post those as well as the diagram of the layout of the control unit connectors. That should probably be what you'd need to check all the wiring. It says there's a more thorough write up of the distributor and ignition coil setup (including crank angle sensor) in another volume - Chapter 6-1 Engine electrical system. If you'd like I can pull that one out and see what it says. I'll be at the library all day today so just say the word if you see this post in time. Edited June 25, 2018 by Brianmitchtay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Hopefully this helps! and good luck! All the wires around my SPFI control box are so stiff and old that when I move them around to check continuity and resistances I always feel like I'm probably breaking more wires and causing more harm than good. ha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 Awesome, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 maybe a hair dryer NOT a heatgun, might help soften the plastic of the wire. I doubt the copper has work hardened 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwagon Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 (edited) It's only been a year and a half, but I finally fixed this! Thanks to Brainmitchtay for those pictures! That helped me isolate it, and replace the disty fron a JY one. With that, it fired right up! After I got the new car about the same time this happened, my motivation to fix it just wasn't there. Edited January 18, 2020 by Speedwagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Hell yeah man! I'm stoked you got it figured out and happy that my pictures helped - even if it took a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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