Souperoo Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 2004 Forester, climate control. With A/C set as cold as it goes, it gets cold, then it seems like only a second after the compressor cuts out, the air gets warm. This cycles back and forth like this. Today driving in a heavy rain, it got colder than ever! I noticed that when the compressor kicks on, only the right side condenser/radiator fan runs. The left side spins just a little then stops. Should both be running when the compressor is running? At times, I think when the engine is hot, both fans will turn on high, so both fans do work. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Sounds like many of our older cars as the seals get old. Needs to be balanced out. My 92 is currently like yours. I just deal with it for now but given the time of year that’s sometimes annoying. Mine , like yours can get ice cold at times. My dog shivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 As far as I remember from my 2010 owner manual AC works depending on the load. So it might be the case. Good luck, Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 3 hours ago, somick said: As far as I remember from my 2010 owner manual AC works depending on the load. So it might be the case. Good luck, Sam Yes the climate control part does change operation depending on load, and it will slow down the fan speed by itself on one of those rare occasions that it gets cool enough. But when you go manual, the fan speed should stay on whatever you set it at, which it does, but it gets warm. The schematic shows a sunlight load sensor which is located on the dash but I sure don't see it on mine? There is also a temp sensor somewhere close to the evaporator (I think). When I get a chance I'm going to take out the control panel which gets me closer to that sensor. Just to the front of the ignition switch is a tiny vent that pulls air in to monitor interior temperature. That might go the temp sender I just mentioned? Manual shows to put a narrow piece of paper in front of it to see if it is pulling air in. It does, but surely not much. Not enough to pull the paper toward the vent, but enough to very slightly hold it there as I pull it away. Again I think that is for the climate control but I'm not sure. I may put tape over it to see if it gets better or worse. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) sounds like you're too low on Freon, borderline before the compressor just doesn't come on at all anymore. just some few things i've messed around with over the years, undercharging the system just alittle bit will make the air blow extremely cold, which is how i run mine, the only bad part about this is that after driving on the highway for about 3hours or so, the whole condensor will freeze up, so before going on a road trip, actually charge it correctly, but it wont blow as cold. ---also it depends what kind of compressor you have! and how the computer/car controls the compressor, some are always constantly on like Honda, and i know 90's Subaru's cycle on and off, 80's Subaru's also cycle if you have the factory installed compressor, dealership's installed compressors on 80's Subaru's don't cycle, well mine didn't. Edited July 18, 2018 by Subasaurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) I should have mentioned that I did try a little over and under charged. Works better under charged, but still blows warm almost as soon as the compressor kicks off. It did the same thing overcharged also, it just didn't get as cold in between the off cycles. And of course tried it with the proper charge and still get the warm cycle. Oh, and I found the sun load sensor, I was looking on the wrong side. Edited July 19, 2018 by Souperoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Hello. Before you purchase any parts get a $35 gauge set off Amazon. What are your low and high side readings at idle and 2000 RPM capture the temp outside when you take those readings. The temp sensor is clipped on the evaporator. Sounds like your high side is low. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Diagnostic-Manifold-Refrigerants-Couplers/dp/B019W5LIVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532266465&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+guages+r134a&dpID=51p6DTOqCiL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 I already did put gauges on it, already had a cheap set. I forget the numbers, but they are in spec. The one thing that I wonder about is how fast the high side goes down when the compressor stops. I'm guessing at about 100# drop in less than 2 seconds. I have no idea if that is normal? After that initial drop, it takes a long time to equalize the 2 sides. How hard is it to get to the temp sensor? I've had enough off to access the radio but don't know how much more would have to come apart and how time consuming it is. The sensor you mention, is that an electrical sensor or a bulb that regulates the expansion valve? And/or does it have both? Also as mentioned, until the car gets really hot, only one fan runs with the compressor. The cool side of the condenser gets hot enough to burn a finger with 1 fan running. When both fans run then it gets hot, but cool enough to hold. Also I believe the fans are running on low speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 I tried one more thing in case the heater coolant control valve was leaking, I put a pair of needle nose vice grips on the heater hose. No change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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