Newbie questions

[SubaruMom22]

Being a glutton for punishment, I have, within the last three months, acquired two older Subies.

One is a 1995 Legacy Wagon,  the other is a 1997 Legacy Outback Wagon.   Having some issues with both.

1995, 2.2L, auto, 289k:

Things are failing up front: cig lighter didn't work when we got it,  then the gas gauge failed, then yesterday, two panel lights came on: the CEL and the airbag light.   It won't talk to the OBDII tool, I get a link error.  Checked all fuses under the dash, they seem to be good. (Is it possible for them to look good and still not work?)

 

1997: 2.5L, auto, 258k

On startup, the cold auto trans fluid light comes on, although it goes off again within a minute.  However, I can't get the silly dipstick out of the tube - I can barely get my hand down there to reach it, with all the hoses in the way - but it just won't budge.  I'm afraid I'm going to break it off, but I need to check this fluid level, esp. as it seems it hasn't been checked in (anyone's) recent memory. 

Rear window wiper/washer doesn't work.

Have to replace a smashed fog light, but the one that's intact doesn't work, either.

Where can I get the pins and things that hold weatherstripping and/or various interior parts in place?

It didn't come with an owner's manual, and the Haynes repair book I bought for both vehicles is of limited assistance in helping me actually operate the bells and whistles.  Good place to get one? 

I'll have some major body repair questions later, but those are the two I can't figure out right now - except: where is the best place to find parts for these little darlings?   

 

 

Edited August 5, 2018 by SubaruMom22

[1 Lucky Texan]

power ports are also fused directly behind the port so, you probably need to get the cig lighter out of the trim and check it's backside.

 

not uncommon for older soobs to have bad wiring in the boot from the body to the hatch. Soldering in splices can help for quite a while and is cheaper than a new harness.

 

other issues you mention could be related to ground connections that need refreshing. take em loose. wire brush every surface of the lugs and the bolt and the body or manifold w'ever it came from, re-assemble and smear with dielectric grease.

 

hope others here have more specific help for you.

[ocei77]

The OBD port is fused IIRC SBF fuse #4 in engine bay. Check it.

Are you plugging it in AFTER you turn the key? If not you will get a link error.

Here is link to FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Wiring etc is in there to check your lines.

 

O.

[heartless]

2 minutes ago, ocei77 said:

The OBD port is fused IIRC SBF fuse #4 in engine bay. Check it.

Are you plugging it in AFTER you turn the key? If not you will get a link error.

Here is link to FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Wiring etc is in there to check your lines.

 

O.

what he said about the OBDII - turn the key to on, then plug in the reader... and he beat me to it with the link to the FSM site.. chuck that Haynes manual in the recycling bin.

also - sometimes one or more of the pins will push out as the reader is pushed on to them, thus not making a good/complete contact... if you continue to have problems getting the reader to connect, it may be worth popping the connector out of the dash to check for pins backing out.

On my old 95 Legacy, i sometimes had connection issues as well, but wiggling the connector a little usually got it to complete the connection.

[SubaruMom22]

 

11 hours ago, heartless said:

what he said about the OBDII - turn the key to on, then plug in the reader... and he beat me to it with the link to the FSM site.. chuck that Haynes manual in the recycling bin.

also - sometimes one or more of the pins will push out as the reader is pushed on to them, thus not making a good/complete contact... if you continue to have problems getting the reader to connect, it may be worth popping the connector out of the dash to check for pins backing out.

On my old 95 Legacy, i sometimes had connection issues as well, but wiggling the connector a little usually got it to complete the connection.

Thanks for these suggestions.   I actually can't remember which I did first, but I'll try again in the order you and ocei77 suggest. 

[SubaruMom22]

15 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

power ports are also fused directly behind the port so, you probably need to get the cig lighter out of the trim and check it's backside.

 

not uncommon for older soobs to have bad wiring in the boot from the body to the hatch. Soldering in splices can help for quite a while and is cheaper than a new harness.

 

other issues you mention could be related to ground connections that need refreshing. take em loose. wire brush every surface of the lugs and the bolt and the body or manifold w'ever it came from, re-assemble and smear with dielectric grease.

 

hope others here have more specific help for you.

I will see about removing the lighter; my skills and dexterity are limited, so I hope I don't have to do anything more involved. 

[SubaruMom22]

11 hours ago, ocei77 said:

The OBD port is fused IIRC SBF fuse #4 in engine bay. Check it.

Are you plugging it in AFTER you turn the key? If not you will get a link error.

Here is link to FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Wiring etc is in there to check your lines.

 

O.

I will definitely check the engine bay fuses.  Thanks!

[heartless]

18 minutes ago, SubaruMom22 said:

I will see about removing the lighter; my skills and dexterity are limited, so I hope I don't have to do anything more involved. 

taking the lighter housing out is not hard, but not exactly easy either.. it involves removing the entire trim plate around the radio & heater controls...

start by removing the cup holder - pull it out normally, there is a small section in the center to press to remove it completely

behind that there are screws that hold the top portion of the trim plate.

pull the ashtray out completely and in that slot, facing upwards are 2 more screws - you will need a stubby screwdriver for these..

once all the screws are out, you should be able to gently pry the trim plate off to gain access to the back side of the cigarette lighter & its wiring.

[mikec03]

You have to get the trans dipstick out because that's how you fill the transmission!  You should of course do a drain and fill on the fluid ASAP because it's liable to really be bad.  It's really hard to get a straight pull on the depstick.  How about trying vice grips between the hoses?  You can put a hair dryer on it for a while to get it hot.  Good luck. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

hair dryer - good tip!

[SubaruMom22]

8 hours ago, heartless said:

taking the lighter housing out is not hard, but not exactly easy either.. it involves removing the entire trim plate around the radio & heater controls...

start by removing the cup holder - pull it out normally, there is a small section in the center to press to remove it completely

behind that there are screws that hold the top portion of the trim plate.

pull the ashtray out completely and in that slot, facing upwards are 2 more screws - you will need a stubby screwdriver for these..

once all the screws are out, you should be able to gently pry the trim plate off to gain access to the back side of the cigarette lighter & its wiring.

I was out looking at it a bit ago; the trim plate is already cracked, so I'll have to be verrrrry careful.   My son's car, and while he is ambivalent about most things, he is rather particular about the stereo region.     What's a good glue, just in case?

[SubaruMom22]

4 hours ago, mikec03 said:

You have to get the trans dipstick out because that's how you fill the transmission!  You should of course do a drain and fill on the fluid ASAP because it's liable to really be bad.  It's really hard to get a straight pull on the depstick.  How about trying vice grips between the hoses?  You can put a hair dryer on it for a while to get it hot.  Good luck. 

I had some luck today finding another dipstick at the junkyard, so I can now be a bit more aggressive in removing the old one.  I heartily concur regarding the likely status of what's in there now: if it hasn't been checked in so long that the stick is essentially gorilla-glued to the tube,  I can only shudder to think of the level and/or color and smell.  

[SubaruMom22]

20 hours ago, ocei77 said:

The OBD port is fused IIRC SBF fuse #4 in engine bay. Check it.

Are you plugging it in AFTER you turn the key? If not you will get a link error.

Here is link to FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Wiring etc is in there to check your lines.

All engine bay fuses look good.

Tried it again: turned key, attached reader.  Still got link error.

That is a GREAT website!!!!  Downloaded the manual; now have to upgrade my Adobe (hope they have a version for Ubuntu). <sigh>

 

[heartless]

21 minutes ago, SubaruMom22 said:

I was out looking at it a bit ago; the trim plate is already cracked, so I'll have to be verrrrry careful.   My son's car, and while he is ambivalent about most things, he is rather particular about the stereo region.     What's a good glue, just in case?

depending on where the crack is (and yes, they do crack fairly easily) you can try super glue, but my personal preference would be some 2 part epoxy - just a small smear in the crack itself, then more on the backside, with something stuck on to help provide a bit more strength - a piece of a popsicle stick, round toothpicks, you get the idea.. allow it to set up completely before reinstalling. I use a 5 minute epoxy i got from my local hobby shop meant for building balsa wood airplanes, LOL it is great stuff and I have enough to last me a LOOOONNNG time.

For the dipstick - try twisting to break it free - I know it is awkward to get in there, but they do have an o-ring on them to seal the stick to the tube to prevent fluid from seeping out and it is possibly baked on good & hard.. if you can twist it a little you should be able to break it free.

 

[SubaruMom22]

1 hour ago, heartless said:

depending on where the crack is (and yes, they do crack fairly easily) you can try super glue, but my personal preference would be some 2 part epoxy - just a small smear in the crack itself, then more on the backside, with something stuck on to help provide a bit more strength - a piece of a popsicle stick, round toothpicks, you get the idea.. allow it to set up completely before reinstalling. I use a 5 minute epoxy i got from my local hobby shop meant for building balsa wood airplanes, LOL it is great stuff and I have enough to last me a LOOOONNNG time.

For the dipstick - try twisting to break it free - I know it is awkward to get in there, but they do have an o-ring on them to seal the stick to the tube to prevent fluid from seeping out and it is possibly baked on good & hard.. if you can twist it a little you should be able to break it free.

 

I'll try the epoxy thing, but I informed my son that I would not be tackling it unless he was present, so he couldn't get po'd about it if it breaks.    

 

I've tried twisting the dipstick, it won't move.  The angle and cluttered field are bad enough, but I have pretty significant arthritis in my hands so I don't have much strength, either.   It doesn't help that the loop handle is broken.   I was hoping I could solve this because if a mechanic has to do it, it might take him a fair amount of time to break it free.   What do you know about using a combination of  ATF and acetone as a solvent?  Would that work, do you think? 

[john in KY]

Can you grab onto it with ViceGrips?  Any reason your son seems reluctant to do any help with this?

 

I just happen to have that trim piece. Just pay postage and I'll mail it to you. 

 

Thinking there is only one bolt down by the base of the tube. Could just remove it and then pull the complete housing.

Edited August 7, 2018 by john in KY

[idosubaru]

14 hours ago, SubaruMom22 said:

IMy son's car, and while he is ambivalent about most things, he is rather particular about the stereo region.  

"You get what you pay for."  you're doing this for free, you shouldn't have to worry about it.  he is choosing to let you do it.  Like the rest of the quarter of a billion of Americans - he has a choice who does the work.  He's not doing the work, he's not willing/able to learn it, he's getting free labor, and a free car (you insinuated you "picked it up")?   The best value in this whole car deal is the present opportunity to teach some values, economics, skills, and opportunity costs and more...

I help people all the time with cars - my rule has always been "i only work on cars for free".  I will not accept payment. And I tell people - I might screw up.  I rarely do, but sometimes i break something or something is collateral damage for certain jobs.  They pay for it, no big deal. No one ever minds - they're unbelievably thankful I'm saving them hundreds (or thousands) of dollars.  

You should not have to think about possibly breaking something for your efforts and lack of his. 

 

[idosubaru]

12 hours ago, SubaruMom22 said:

I've tried twisting the dipstick, it won't move.  The angle and cluttered field are bad enough, but I have pretty significant arthritis in my hands so I don't have much strength, either.  What do you know about using a combination of  ATF and acetone as a solvent?  Would that work, do you think? 

Man those are brutal - I can't recall how i've gotten those out before but i've seen the same thing - broken handle and feels like it's welded in place. 

if you've got those chemicals, yeah give it a try. soak some rags/cloths and wrap the dipstick overnight - create as much solvent around it as you can so it can "soak" over night. 

I think i'd try a hammer and looong chisel or screw driver first.  Angle it just enough to bite but at a "loosening" counter clockwise angle. Maybe you have some remaining plastic sticking up from the old handle that you can wedge the chisel/screwdriver into and loosen it counter clockwise with some taps from the hammer.  I've done this countless times on various stuck fasteners and the impact is hard to beat. 

If the fastener is smooth I'll first hit it straight on (straight down for a diff dipstick) and create a "V" or notch, which then i can turn the chisel to get a "twisting" or "loosening" motion against one of the sides of the V.   I got pretty good at that when doing 60 rusty timing chain covers on an EZ engine. 

[heartless]

Have to agree with idosubaru - this is a fantastic learning opportunity for your son and he should be helping you with things, even if the dipstick issue is not on his car. It is a good way for him to learn about taking care of his own car by helping you take care of yours.

I also completely understand about the arthritis. My hands are not nearly as strong as they used to be either because of it - it can be quite frustrating at times.

[1 Lucky Texan]

if you're able to warm it first, then spray with PB Blaster or brush atf/acetone on it , as it cools, it may pull some penetrant inside. (careful with acetone around any painted/rubber/plastic items you care about)

 

good luck

[SubaruMom22]

9 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Man those are brutal - I can't recall how i've gotten those out before but i've seen the same thing - broken handle and feels like it's welded in place. 

if you've got those chemicals, yeah give it a try. soak some rags/cloths and wrap the dipstick overnight - create as much solvent around it as you can so it can "soak" over night. 

I think i'd try a hammer and looong chisel or screw driver first.  Angle it just enough to bite but at a "loosening" counter clockwise angle. Maybe you have some remaining plastic sticking up from the old handle that you can wedge the chisel/screwdriver into and loosen it counter clockwise with some taps from the hammer.  I've done this countless times on various stuck fasteners and the impact is hard to beat. 

If the fastener is smooth I'll first hit it straight on (straight down for a diff dipstick) and create a "V" or notch, which then i can turn the chisel to get a "twisting" or "loosening" motion against one of the sides of the V.   I got pretty good at that when doing 60 rusty timing chain covers on an EZ engine. 

I just remembered I have a looooong screwdriver; I will try that, since there's no way I can get down in there with a hammer.    I am a bit timid about crawling under it on a jack, and going at this problem from underneath seems the only alternative.  

 

Quote

 

"You get what you pay for."  you're doing this for free, you shouldn't have to worry about it.  he is choosing to let you do it.  Like the rest of the quarter of a billion of Americans - he has a choice who does the work.  He's not doing the work, he's not willing/able to learn it, he's getting free labor, and a free car (you insinuated you "picked it up")?   The best value in this whole car deal is the present opportunity to teach some values, economics, skills, and opportunity costs and more...

I help people all the time with cars - my rule has always been "i only work on cars for free".  I will not accept payment. And I tell people - I might screw up.  I rarely do, but sometimes i break something or something is collateral damage for certain jobs.  They pay for it, no big deal. No one ever minds - they're unbelievably thankful I'm saving them hundreds (or thousands) of dollars.  

You should not have to think about possibly breaking something for your efforts and lack of his. 

 

You're right.  I originally picked up the car as the only viable method to get him home, as he was destitute on the other side of the Rockies, with the intent that it was going to be my car when he got it here,  being more in line with my life now, and he would use my other vehicle.    Just after he landed a good job, he and a deer had an encounter, and the vehicle that was to be his was totaled.  Back to square one, he has the '95 with the CEL/lighter issue; I have the '97 with the dipstick issue.    He has one day off a week; the rest of the time he's either working from 10 to 10 and driving 40 miles each way, or he's sleeping for the next shift.   It's a challenge, and as soon as I can catch up with him, he gets to help.    Or he gets to pay to send it to a shop, since this is not the only problem it has, and not the one that's most expensive;  it's only the one that's most immediate. 

[SubaruMom22]

19 hours ago, john in KY said:

Quote

Quote

 

Can you grab onto it with ViceGrips?  Any reason your son seems reluctant to do any help with this?

I know I  have vice grips around here somewhere, but can't locate them.     Son, as I said above, is not necessarily reluctant, he just hasn't been home long enough since he told me about the CEL.

I just happen to have that trim piece. Just pay postage and I'll mail it to you. 

How much would postage be?  I looked at the one that's there, and the previous owners cracked it when they put a really nice new stereo in. 

Thinking there is only one bolt down by the base of the tube. Could just remove it and then pull the complete housing.

And that is probably what will have to happen, but it will likely be my mechanic who does it, as I am already pretty far beyond my depth.   My life before disability was restaurants, banking, and IT.   I know enough to do very basic maintenance and how to use the diagnostic scanner, which is why these problems we're discussing are so danged frustrating: they should be no-brainers, and I can't even get them done without help!

 

 

 

 

[john in KY]

Needle-nose grips would be my choice. I checked a spare transmission I have and only one bolt secures the tube. 

I didn't read all the posts that closely and assumed you needed that trim piece above the radio that  I have. Now I see you need the trim piece below what I have that I don't have.  Will take a trip to the local wrecking yard tomorrow and will pull that piece if one available.

How does $10 sound?

 

John

[czny]

If you can borrow or have one, a plumbers basin wrench could give you enough grip & leverage to twist that dipstick loose. Long reach too.

I too can empathize with the arthritis handicap. On generic celebrex &/or Alleve for it myself.

[SubaruMom22]

4 hours ago, john in KY said:

Needle-nose grips would be my choice. I checked a spare transmission I have and only one bolt secures the tube. 

I didn't read all the posts that closely and assumed you needed that trim piece above the radio that  I have. Now I see you need the trim piece below what I have that I don't have.  Will take a trip to the local wrecking yard tomorrow and will pull that piece if one available.

How does $10 sound?

 

John

That would probably be enough for a small priority mail package, if memory serves.