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Correct break in for new rings and bearings?


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We subscribe to the "run it hard" break-in theory.  That doesn't mean WOT pulls from the first start up, but we did this method on our last rebuild and it has proven to not use a drop of oil in the last 50k+ miles:

Fill brand new engine with either break-in-specific oil or cheap 30w dino oil.  Start, idle and check for leaks, drips, new engine type stuff.

(optional, stop engine, change oil & filter, cheap dino 30w or break-in specific)

Take car for a drive along a route with as much change in elevation as possible, varying throttle positions and engine speed.  There is no need for WOT or redline shifting, but DO NOT baby the engine.  If its turbocharged, try to stay out of boost, but get as close as you can to 0 in/hg and psi as possible. If N/A, half to 3/4 throttle is acceptable.  When you have the opportunity to engine brake from medium high rpm, take it!  Use engine braking as much as you can during your break-in test drive.

(optional, stop engine, change oil & filter, cheap dino 30w or oil of your choice)

Drive normally varying engine speed and throttle position (avoid WOT and high gear, high throttle situations) for the next 1,000-3,000 miles.

Change oil & filter.

Now you're good to go!

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Cylinder pressure seats rings. Ring manufacturers recommend 2/3 throttle and varied engine speeds. Honestly I typically go WOT after about 50 miles of 2/3 throttle, and closed throttle coasting. 

There is NO break in for bearings. There should not be any contact on bearing surfaces EVER.

GD

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Here we go, my old man always told me it was to bed rings in and that regular small interval oil changes in the first 10k km were essential to remove fine metals from the engine internals to help reduce any permit ute wear on the mains and big ends...

Anyone go yet another story about break in procedures?

Cheers

Bennie

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