jono Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 I was going to suggest EA81 twin cores as seems to be best for my EA82 in my EA81 bodied ute Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Where are you hiding Jono??! It's certainly not summer here! i doubt many people are silly enough to venture out in the heat with an ea82 (if anyone still drives them) and the ea81 radiator doesn't fit very nicely in the ea82 body... Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 I drive one of mine nearly every day. Keeping a close watch on the cooling system condition is #1 thing to do to avoid problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrgvanman Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) My EA81 hasn't been so happy this summer. I have had her about three years and suspected a head gasket among other things, such as a leaky heater core, all minute but serious enough to purge some coolant. I am planning to try some BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer. Wish me luck. Edited August 6, 2018 by lrgvanman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 You may end up creating more problems with that stuff. Why not first pinpoint the source of the problem? Doesn't take much to bypass the heater core. Radiator that old has to be on its last leg. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 1 hour ago, DaveT said: I drive one of mine nearly every day. Keeping a close watch on the cooling system condition is #1 thing to do to avoid problems. Likewise here & my 87 GL sees long stretches of hwys thru current 100+ temps in desert areas. Running a dual brass core radiator & mindful of those pesky faults of an EA82. Such as the small bypass hoses & heater hoses that are often overlooked. Another is thoroughly purging the air out of the system. A must for any liquid cooled engine. Any of those quick cures like Alumaseal can spell the end of a radiator when tubes get clogged with that junk. For my rig the temp gauge stays just below center of range most of the time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 What's wrong with Summer driving? My EA82 wagon is apart this year, but last summer I lived in Phoenix Arizona and I drove the piss out of it, ac on full blast almost 80 miles a day for my job! This was all stop and go milage as I was a merchandiser and had to go from store to store. My truck is flush the system, electric dual fans with sealeed shroud, 20% coolant to water ratio, and a bottle of redline water wetter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenA Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Checking out that red line water wetter now... Im willing to give anything that helps in the high desert a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Don't pour anything except coolant, water or "water wetter" type additives. "Stop Leak" type products should be called Stop Flow instead... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impostor Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 My ea82t runs hot, but I''m pretty sure it left the factory that way. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 6 minutes ago, impostor said: My ea82t runs hot, but I''m pretty sure it left the factory that way. HAHAHHAHHHAAAA!! i'm done with subaru forums for today, it wno't get any funnier than that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impostor Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 I can't get over the commercial for the XT turbo back in the day. There's a quick shot of the cluster and if you look close the temp is one bar below the red. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 My stock EA82 has had no overheating issues and it's driven almost daily in stop & go traffic. Temps here have been in the mid - to high 90s for most of the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 i am wondering how well the twin core ea81 radiators will work with an ej25. i am hoping they can handle the demands since i dont want to have to go through too much drama with my brat when i put it on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 Bennie, what came to mind as we freeze our arses off yet another winter, of a guy on that goldfish bowl forum buster fb last US summer with a pic of his BRAT, with bonnet vents just on display saying he needed cooling advice. He was running in desert region, needed AC I think and demands on it were almost just too much. Despite later saying he didn't want to install bonnet vents, dunno why he put them in the pic. But then again, not everyone understands what I write sometimes either :) On those pesky pricey 6.75mm ID coolant bypass hoses to throttle bodies, I have done away with them and tapped and plugged the holes. just have the one from block to thermostat housing now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 I don't drive my EA82 in the summer because the AC is out and I have no tools to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) I am a little bit... but not so much. Since the head gasket job a couple yrs back. And replacing the stock rad with a supposedly new CSF RAD and factory Oem thermostat. Think I need to dial back the timing a smidge to stop the pinging. Get close to the red zone but it always drops back on the other side after climbing longass hills.. here is a complaint I left for CSF them on Facebook that I never got a reply lol! https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1003055443105370&id=100002027723629&set=o.129092457127268&_rdr Edited August 7, 2018 by Len Dawg Added a link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 I have never had an issue with my EA82 overheating. I see that its a common problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Instead of a new radiator I recommend creating an air dam under the front of the L series, starting below the radiator and ending somewhere near the engine crossmember. You can add flutes that face backwards to the air dam too, this helps in creating a low air pressure system behind the radiator which naturally draws air through the radiator, increasing the cooling ability of the radiator without needing to rely on the fans as much. I did this with my EJ22'd L series with a dual core copper radiator (Nissan pulsar unit) and ran it across the Nullarbor Plain in the middle of our summer, loaded to the gills with the AC cranked. It got to 44*C outside and the car ran steady on 93*C at 110kmph. The makeshift air dam allowed us to do this as my L seems to have issues drawing air through the radiator at speed. I don't know if it's the lift kit with a modified factory bash plate rather than a custom unit (on the list of things to do), but the MAN truck grille we found on the side of the road the the trick beautifully for our return trip home. I also wonder if those little pressed metal plates that reside under the radiator on each side actually contribute to this pressure effect. They're usually left off at some point in these vehicle's lives and could be a factor on a stock vehicle's cooling ability. Cheers Bennie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 (edited) IF guideline are followed regarding cooling system maintenance for EA82s - as stated in owners /service manuals. EVERY 2 YEARS - change coolant . remove radiator hoses , and heater hoses at firewall to flush out heater core as well (with garden hose) Flush radiator and engine separately as well with garden hose. replace thermostat / radiator cap if necessary. If these guidelines / recommendations are followed then there should be few if any issues. Both my 2 ea82s had cooling system issues and it was due to neglect / lack of maintenance from previous owners. As these are prone to overheating and consequently blowing headgaskets (particularly EA82T with extra heat generated with turbo) if regular maintenance is overlooked / neglected. Edited August 9, 2018 by subnz correction omission addition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 On 8/7/2018 at 5:54 PM, el_freddo said: Instead of a new radiator I recommend creating an air dam under the front of the L series, starting below the radiator and ending somewhere near the engine crossmember. You can add flutes that face backwards to the air dam too, this helps in creating a low air pressure system behind the radiator which naturally draws air through the radiator, increasing the cooling ability of the radiator without needing to rely on the fans as much.... ...I also wonder if those little pressed metal plates that reside under the radiator on each side actually contribute to this pressure effect. They're usually left off at some point in these vehicle's lives and could be a factor on a stock vehicle's cooling ability. Cheers Bennie Yes to all of this. Sound fluid dynamic principals at play here. I have yet to do this on my RX-RA, but I did notice a difference in cooling by reinstalling the factory skid plate. The splash guards on the sides of the engine bay help as well (just look at the size of the undertray on any modern car). Another step you could take would be to fill the gaps between the radiator and the sheet metal it attaches to with foam. This will keep the airflow from going around the radiator instead of through it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 On 8/10/2018 at 12:06 AM, carfreak85 said: Yes to all of this. Sound fluid dynamic principals at play here. I have yet to do this on my RX-RA, but I did notice a difference in cooling by reinstalling the factory skid plate. The splash guards on the sides of the engine bay help as well (just look at the size of the undertray on any modern car). Another step you could take would be to fill the gaps between the radiator and the sheet metal it attaches to with foam. This will keep the airflow from going around the radiator instead of through it. ala XT Vortex design to stream air only through radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUAWEI3054 Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 REPLACEING THE THERMOSAT DOWN TO A 160 DEGREE IS A GREAT HELP OR JUST TAKE THE FRONT HOOD OFF FOR THE SUMMER . I USED TO LIVE IN MODESTO CALIF AND IT WAS 108 MANY DAYS IT HELPED ALOT ON A ALL ALIUMIUN MOTOR AND KEPT THE HEAD GASKETS FROM BLOWING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrgvanman Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) Light bubble blowing and purging out the cap, also running a tad hotter thanks to our fake weather changes. I have had issues with different brand vehicles and this is my second Subaru. My first had A/C and didn't like that the interior was cool and the engine overheated to the point of severe damage. I was turning wrenches for about 30 years and also worked in a radiator shop. I just think that BlueDevil may help after a flush then water flushes soon after to rid of excess sealant residual. This one has no A/C, either. Edited August 12, 2018 by lrgvanman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 10 hours ago, HUAWEI3054 said: REPLACEING THE THERMOSAT DOWN TO A 160 DEGREE IS A GREAT HELP OR JUST TAKE THE FRONT HOOD OFF FOR THE SUMMER . I USED TO LIVE IN MODESTO CALIF AND IT WAS 108 MANY DAYS IT HELPED ALOT ON A ALL ALIUMIUN MOTOR AND KEPT THE HEAD GASKETS FROM BLOWING Stop yelling!! PLEASE! Also in many places it's illegal to drive around without the bonnet fitted to the vehicle. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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