jono Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 (edited) Might have taken a few months from start to finish for my first steering rack rebuild,but I tell you it was all worth the effort and time. My inner and outer tie rods are rock sourced to make the task more affordable. I got the ELP-2 spec grease from a steering specialist, but figure most greases will be better than what most of you will find inside your racks! Tool list is pretty basic such as two shifters, a small cold chisel to tease the lock washer of the inner tie rod to rack connection. A pin punch should take over until washer flat enough to get things undone Almost just only wrist tight inner to rack A pair of 90° bent circlip pliers in the ready to squeeze in type for the circlip found under the special shaft seal that really needs care when removing as no longer available in this style. A normal grease seal likely to be sourced but genuine seal has a tough metal top ring bonded in. I don't believe it matters which direction the top of the T that bolts to the rubber flex join, but when assembled I sound drivers side end in so shoulders were flush then fitted spiral shaft so it's top line was in line with rack, not at an angle. Once circlip is out just need to jolt the shaft from steering coupling out, same sort of wriggle tap when assembling I left end seals as they were, just washing old crud out, clean up before assembly One end of rack has a flat on both sides for tightening inner tie rod rack ends so don't boot up until both sides done up and lock washers or thread locking goo is done. Steering joint I got my grease from ( out of their bulk supply) said they toss the lock washers ( also NLA for EA81) and use thread locking glues The other end of rack only has one flat so not as good on shifter when tightening up inner tie rod Setting my rack up for driveway no wheel alignments needed instantly- I set the rack on floor with outer tie rods tapered shaft to be square to the rack ( not their tendency to pully inwards Measuring from the tapered shafts centres I used 1245 mm and if it is 1265 I will edit later ...lock tie rod nuts and I now have such light , tight steering. Not pulling either way so figure I don't need a more professional/ accurate alignment - time will tell Locally a fellow Brumby owner paid out A$500 for a recond manual rack. I am happy to have done this myself and got such a good result. Replaced CV shafts I had kicking around for years, and also heavy duty coils and better strut tops so makes it hard to say just the rack made all the improvement CVs CSA110 from REPCO. Five year 100,000 km warranty Oh, forgot...there is a hard plastic slipper/guide and spring for getting correct free play tension on the rack itself. This is under the 14 mm bolt head with lock ring nut. I used a centre punch then just gentle drill tip point to enlarge centre punch marks. With both racks I did I found the 14 mm came out ~ 4.75 turns..so went back in the same turns to line up marks on 14 mm and housing. Edited September 2, 2018 by jono 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Good effort Jono! I'm wanting to do the same and was wondering if this job you did was on a manual rack or a power steering unit. Sounds like your brumby has copped a fair bit of loving in the front end work department! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Hmmm, I thought the EPL-2 grease would have given it up as a manual rack ? Fair bit of loving, not wrong "Bennie" Needed a break from the propane computer set up which you can find via google, just not on Peels website The seal on top that looks like it has 'spokes' radiating out for a bit of strength, needs a little care to remove and reUSE. Seems there is only PS rebuild kits not MS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Did you regrease it or also replace seals? Did you check out that legacy thread where a guy documented his rack rebuild with pictures? That looked interesting. Those of us with manual racks or XT6 racks have few options, no great options, if we want to keep stock racks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Thought I said I cleaned it all out and used EPL-2 grease. Can't get seals so grease I stuffed in there should help. Anything is better than what these look like inside after 30 years!. I did not see the Leggy presentation. In fact never seen or read anyone do their own -I was flying blind first one. Second was a cinch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Oh right - manual rack, so you don't even need to worry about leaking side seals which is the main thing that sends P/S racks to their death and are probably harder to address. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Darn sight tidier to play with as well....no tranny fluid to leak E V E r y W h E r E. Oh yeah, it's me jono wearing my Steptoe disguise so could post a photo ...ho ho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Jono, you're a tripper mate! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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