1996 Legacy Stalling at Slow Speeds - Close To Death, Save Her Life, Subaru Doctors!

[axolotl]

Hello Subaru geniuses, I'm here in a final desperate attempt to save the life of my beloved 1996 Legacy. She's been good to me for about 6 years now, but has been pretty sick for the past ~6 months despite my many attempts and dollars put into helping her, and unfortunately I no longer feel safe driving her. This is my final attempt to fix her before I move on. 

 

The current issue is that she keeps stalling (or getting close to) when driving particularly while slowing down but also sometimes for unknown reasons. I often see her stall immediately once turned on and backing out of the driveway, when I coast, am in stop and go traffic, or when I take a turn after a stop sign. Sometimes this happens once or twice and then she drives without issue (before knowing the extent of this issue she drove ~100 miles twice on the highway without any problems), but it seems like the stalling has gotten worse lately. When it stalls it happily turns right back on, electrical components are still on. Strangely, she doesn't seem to shut down while simply idling, only while in motion. Has anyone had any problems like this? 

 

The problem has certainly become less frequent after a recent replacement of the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position center, but still persists. They did a full inspection and didn't see any other major concerns, though I may bring my car back to make sure everything was installed properly. I did notice that immediately after picking my car up after the replacement the idling was acting strange, while in park it would accelerate on its own to about 2000. Now when it idles it is at about 600. However, I'm resistant to bringing it back in to be inspected since they will charge me $200 if it wasn't their fault and I'm on a tight budget. 

 

Previously I had asked for assistance on this board when it was stalling while driving, since then I have also done the following:

Replaced battery, replaced alternator, checked all wiring, replaced spark plugs, new air filter, checked/cleaned fuel pump, cleaned throttle body, cleaned IAC, cleaned MAF, cleaned intake, checked all hoses, checked vacuum leaks, and replaced fuel filter. 

 

Before the stalling issue I had an ongoing problem of needing to jump her before just about every ride for about 6 months. 

 

Any help, especially on a budget, is very appreciated! Or any brutal honesty that is may just be time to give up is also regrettably accepted. Thank you!

[montana tom]

Replace the MAF with a known original good one. Do not buy a knockoff. Cleaning rarely works. Borrow a buddy's or hit  up a wrecking yard . Replace the pcv with original equipment.  Recheck for cracked (but look good vacuum lines)

Is the starting issue fixed with bat & alt. ?  Is this car OBD 2  ready ? If so any codes? 

96 with a 2.2 is one of the most reliable old subi's out there.   As long as the body is good then don't give up on her.

[mikec03]

Yes, change the MAF.  As was said, don't bother to clean it!  The only other thing that has caused one of my 90's subarus to stall was the TPS.  It's kind of a pain to calibrate if you change it.  A failure of the MAF won't set a code most of the time.  However, when the TPS failed for me, it did set a code.

We assume that you are telling us of all the codes that have been set.  If not, do so.  

It's kind of unlikely for a 90's subaru, but for later years, it was necessary to change the knock sensor and the upstream Oxygen sensor to avoid hesitation or stalling.  So I would do both just because.  The bosch O2 sensor is cheap as well is the KS off the internet.    

[turboguzzi]

also remove and clean the idle air valve, my 95' leg would die occasionally when coasting to a stop, cleaning deposits with thinners solved it,

[axolotl]

Thank you so much, I'm feeling hopeful that replacing the MAF will do the trick! I'll take a look at the other sensors as well. 

Could you show me an example of an original MAF vs a knockoff? Online I'm seeing some for ~$30 and some for $250 - is there a quality option for cheap or will I need to shell out some cash? 

The starting issue is all fixed, she turns on easily now. 

I currently have a check engine light on and am looking for my code reader, I lost it somewhere in the house but I'll come back with results shortly. 

[msmithmmx]

I have a good used spare MAF.  PM me.

[Toadspit]

Wondering if you got anywhere with this? I experienced a similar situation on two ocations and once it was the MAF and another was the TPS showed erratic resistance on my meter. Like the reading on my meter would vary at partial and wide open positions and various positions in-between 

[idosubaru]

On 9/4/2018 at 2:25 PM, axolotl said:

Could you show me an example of an original MAF vs a knockoff? Online I'm seeing some for ~$30 and some for $250 - is there a quality option for cheap or will I need to shell out some cash? 

Swap in a good used MAF or Idle control valve.  They don't fail often but it happens, i've seen both of those fail once or twice. 

Alternately you could test those components or try to log some live data to properly diagnosis it, but if you cant' do that your mechanic doesn't sound like they will either. 

It sounds like your mechanic isn't good at diagnosing anyway - they're just guessing, throwing your money at it, and not fixing the problem.  Dont' take it back there.  There's nothing to "check" - the issue isn't cam/crank sensor related.  I think most of us would have told you to test or swap in another MAF or Idle Control valve before those.

Get a known good used unit.  Members here are very helpful - like the one above who offered a used one.  I routinely ship parts to members here and may have a MAF for your car as well if that didn't work out.  they're also on eBay. 

[Mike104]

Troubleshooting with VISA!

[john in KY]

My 95 had very similar symptoms.  Over on the passenger side mounted on the inner fender is something with 2 vacuum lines. One of the lines was disconnected.  Plugged it back in and problem solved. This solved the stalling problem. Your other problem, engine racing, almost always an air leak. Check all those hoses the connect with the air intake tube.