Solved : What is causing this?

[Bigsky]

Here is video of the problem. I am hoping one of you can steer me in the right direction. My mechanic is less then helpful so far. And now is out of state. 

I have checked the battery with a volt meter, it reads 12.4 .

When the car is on it goes up to 13.8, when i turn ac and lights on it fluctuates between 13.6 and 13.8.

I have replaced the plugs and wires so far. But not sure where to head next. 

 

Ill get a video of it in the day time.  But hopefully you can hear the issue. There is a sliht whine and the weirs pulsing sound. 

The idle doesnt go up or down, like most peoples issues on the web that ive found. 

It mainly does it when starting until it warms up , but it does it slightly when turning on the blinker i notice the check engine light dim in rhythm  . 

 

Help?

 

Thanks to the advice i found it was a faulty alternator, and i found how to fix it myself

Edited October 3, 2018 by Bigsky
Solved

[brus brother]

Have a store like Autozone nearby to check the alternator?

[heartless]

while you are there, have them read the codes for that check engine light.

[Bigsky]

6 hours ago, heartless said:

while you are there, have them read the codes for that check engine light.

Dude i bought it from says its the knock sensor.  Would that cause the light problem?  It still may be a faulty alternator. But ill replace the knock sensor this coming payday

[brus brother]

I'm not sure if Dude's suggestion will fix your problem.

Instead of throwing parts at the car (knock sensor, new tires, window tint) might be better off having a FREE alternator test done at your local Autozone parts store in Missoula.

Speak with Ashley. She opens tomorrow and will gladly test your alternator. They can also check to see if you have any stored or pending codes.

The next question is year of your car and how to proceed if alternator is crapping out. Some say stay away from aftermarket ones and go for a rebuilt original.

 

Edited September 23, 2018 by brus brother

[Bigsky]

2 hours ago, brus brother said:

I'm not sure if Dude's suggestion will fix your problem.

Instead of throwing parts at the car (knock sensor, new tires, window tint) might be better off having a FREE alternator test done at your local Autozone parts store in Missoula.

Speak with Ashley. She opens tomorrow and will gladly test your alternator. They can also check to see if you have any stored or pending codes.

The next question is year of your car and how to proceed if alternator is crapping out. Some say stay away from aftermarket ones and go for a rebuilt original.

 

Are you local?   Do i have to take the alternator off to test it? Thats the only reason i havent yet.  I will be getting the codes checked soon so i know a bit better of a direction to go.  

[brus brother]

Not local. Called last night to confirm the Missoula store operates like Autozone here in CT.

They are able to test the alternator on the car and read the CEL codes while you are there as well. 

Let us know what Ashley comes up with AND your year and model.

[brus brother]

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

you could easily have more than on issue and knock sensors are frequently bad on older soobs.

also, cheap ebay knock sensors seem to work fine for people, easy swap too.

 

Edited September 23, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Bigsky]

Ok alternator output is bad. I dont have the code yet, but ill try and get a new alternator this payday. 

 

My next step will be how much of a bitch will it be to change? My mechanic is out of state so ill have to do it hans solo.

I do have the chilton manual and ill try to rally some friends to help, but most likely ill be alone doing it

[1 Lucky Texan]

look at youtube for a video or 2? it's pretty easy but, some folks have messed-up the tensioner....

 

if you can drive something else for a few days, have a local rebuilder fix your OEM alternator, or consider replacing it with a used OEM (car-part.com)

or check into a DBW unit or one from https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/real.html

 

typical units from VatoZone or similar are not well respected and can have short lifespans.

[heartless]

changing an alternator is not difficult.

a basic metric socket set is really all you need, tool wise.

Exactly how it is done will depend on which style accessory system you have.. a single serpentine belt to run all accessories (newer style), or two separate belts (old style)

would help if we knew what year & model Subaru we are discussing.

[Bigsky]

21 minutes ago, heartless said:

changing an alternator is not difficult.

a basic metric socket set is really all you need, tool wise.

Exactly how it is done will depend on which style accessory system you have.. a single serpentine belt to run all accessories (newer style), or two separate belts (old style)

would help if we knew what year & model Subaru we are discussing.

Its a 96 impreza lx 2.2 L 

 

[brus brother]

 

[heartless]

^^^ that right there.

[idosubaru]

4 hours ago, Bigsky said:

Its a 96 impreza lx 2.2 L 

 

Buy this - this is a rare cheap alternator - $65 from Subaru, usually they're $300-$500 - https://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/p/Subaru__/ALTERNATOR-ASSEMBLY/49505319/23700AA34ARA.html

Don't buy aftermarket garbage no matter how slick "new" "lifetime warrantied" it looks or how easy they are to get.  go to subaru and buy it. call them right now and ask them to order it in so it's there on payday. 

they're super easy to replace - i could probably do it in 5 minutes if i rushed.  and I could easily do it with my eyes closed. 

[brus brother]

Call up your local Subaru dealership and ask them to match the online price mentioned by idosubaru. MOST dealerships now have online divisions in their parts departments. They all get their inventory from SOA.

At the very least, they might allow you to return the old one for the core charge since they all get sent back to Subaru of America.

Edited September 27, 2018 by brus brother

[Bigsky]

On 9/26/2018 at 4:25 PM, brus brother said:

 

Thank you for this. , alternator is fixed. And lights are not pulsing anymore.  Check engine light is off.  Now just shocks, power steering pump, and the windshield wiper lever. And i should have a great car.

[1 Lucky Texan]

so many folks have fixed whining or notchy-feeling power steering with just an o-ring

 

 

I have read of people modifying Jeep or Chrysler wiper bushings - or the replacement bushing kit parts, and epoxying them into their wiper linkages.

 

Or, they get a new wiper linkage.

Edited October 2, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Bigsky]

4 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

so many folks have fixed whining or notchy-feeling power steering with just an o-ring

 

 

I have read of people modifying Jeep or Chrysler wiper bushings - or the replacement bushing kit parts, and epoxying them into their wiper linkages.

 

Or, they get a new wiper linkage.

My power steering res. Is leaking on the bottom so it drips on my manifold and smokes when the engine heats up.  I thought of running a toggle switch to my wiper motor  but the part is only like 80 bucks.  And i found shocks and springs for like 200