whynot Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 99 outback wagon. I bought it with bad head gaskets, blowing water out of the radiator. Changed the gaskets, and ran ok, but always worried me it was not quite right. recently did the same thing to me. I have a wrecked car, so moved all the components over to the engine, and it will not turn all the way over, so something in it is bent. Now I have this engine out of the car, on a stand. the leak down test does not put air in the cooling system. I get about 40 psi on all the cyl. using a ratchet. I have no idea what is up. maybe only leaking when hot? if so is it a cracked head? how do I tell. I really am at the point I feel like I am throwing good money after bad. trying to decide if I should replace both again, or just junk the car and move on. all advice and tips welcome. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Ok; Let me see if I got this straight. Your post is slightly confusing. You bought a 99 with bad HG , you repaired it yourself and it worked for a while but now it has gone out again? Then you have a different motor from a wrecked car that you want to use but it will not turn all the way over ? If your looking for a bad head gasket , remove the head and look at the gasket ... you can always see where it blew thru. cracked heads can happen if the motor gets hot enough. Of course if it got that hot the rod bearings are next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 sorry, it made sense in my head. as much as anything does... Yes you are correct. the engine from the wrecked car that i planned on using will not turn over all the way, so something is bent in it. So I went back to the engine that has the blown head gasket. which I have repaired before. I was trying to find a way to only do the bead head gasket, but I do not know which one it is. It is blowing water out of the radiator, so I thought if i did a leak down test, that it should leak into the coolant. but It does not do that. I guess I am just going to do them both again. last time i did not know i needed to have them machined, so I will do that this time. probably at home. i am really trying to keep the cost down, i have spent way more than I thought i would. sorry i was so confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I would just resurface them with new OEM or equivalent gaskets on both sides and be done theyre notorious for having intermittent symptoms I’ve seen them go weeks/months between overheating events - I would assume the weeks/months during no overheating would pass a leak down test and it’s likely load dependent or not a complete failure One of the plugs didn’t look differ did it? You could pull one head and check it first - maybe it’ll be obvious it was that one and you can avoid the other side (fingers crossed)? EJ22 swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 all the plugs look ok and the same. I think i will do the machine work following GD's system with glass and paper and see if it shows anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) car ever set a misfire code? that cylinder's bank would be my best guess. wonder if you could idle or even drive until system is bubbling, park and idle engine, then quickly pull and replace plug wires 1 at a time while monitoring the bubbles? when you kill combustion in the leaking cylinder, bubbles should decrease right? Or, killing the leaking cylinder would affect idling the least? may need a helper to keep the engine running????? Edited October 31, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 maybe, but the engine is out already. I started changing the head gaskets. Subaru gaskets are $81 each. and not even gold plated. but i got those, last time it was fel-pro. What causes a head bolt to creak when finishing the tightening procedure? the last 90. yes i used motor oil on the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Ebay item #( 131463945004 ) Brand new Pair of Subaru #610 head gaskets $88.95 delivered. From a Subaru dealer. Chase all the threads , lube again, especially the seat at the head of the bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Switch to engine assembly lube for head bolts, use no oil. Grind slots in an old head bolt, fill with assembly lube and chase the threads. Run all the bolts down the threads after chasing. Replace rusted bolts. Lube the top of the washer and the mating surface of the bolt head. Leave engine side of washer dry. Edited November 1, 2018 by 89Ru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Subaru gaskets are $49.95 retail. About $37 wholesale. Follow the guidelines above. Engine oil will not work for Subaru head bolts - regardless of what the "manual" says about it. GD Edited November 1, 2018 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) so I have this one bolted down do I have to replace it? can I just remove the bolt, (center intake side) and chase it and install it again. or just leave it. What dealer are you using? the one in Vancouver Washington wants 80.99 each. i got to find a better dealer. maybe I can get them at a different dealer and return them to this one? Here are the surfaces before bolting it together. I do have a spare bolt, so I will see if I can slot it and chase the other side. Edited November 1, 2018 by whynot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Any of the dealers in Portland..... our account is through Lithia Subaru in Oregon City. Subaru of America MSRP is 49.95 retail. parts.subaru.com Gresham Subaru is good. Carr Subaru in Beaverton has largest inventory and lowest wholesale pricing for high dollar customers. I have been offered 33% off retail to do my business with them but the distance is too far and I get 28% with Lithia. Having that relationship 1 mile from my shop makes it much easier to run down between deliveries if we need something quick (pretty much a daily). If you haven't run it - just take it back off and chase the threads - retorque it with Amsoil assembly lube. If you can't find anyone up there that has it I carry the assembly lube here at my shop in Milwaukie. It's like $6. GD Edited November 1, 2018 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 so I can take the head back off, and use the same gasket again? never done that before, always had to change them. Just making sure. If I can then I will do that. Also how big of a slot in the bolt. I have a cut off tool, and a 4" hand grinder, Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) I would put the bolt in a vice, and use the cut-off-wheel. Slot the threads 180 degrees apart all the way up the threaded section. Width of the cut-off-wheel, 3/16 depth or as close as you can. Try to keep the edges nice and tight and sharp. Yeah the gasket should be fine. It probably needs more torque than it got with the creaking bolt anyway. GD Edited November 1, 2018 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 another question. I used 220 grip paper to surface, is that good enough, or in an old post I found to use 220 then 320. I am taking it apart again, is it good enough, or hit it with 320 before going back together. Thanks again for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 We actually use a 150 grit cloth backed media. https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIES-4245-Emery-9-Inch-11-Inch/dp/B000BPNMZ4/ref=sr_1_cc_6?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1541177698&sr=1-6-catcorr&keywords=ali+150+grit We make two passes - the media sheers down to a finer grit so on the second pass it's much finer than 150 grit anyway. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Thanks, Saw that in another thread, but then found an older one that said 220 then 320. So I will just leave it at the 220. Thanks so much for all of the help, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 back again. maybe I should start another thread.? Got the engine back in. Very hard to start. but when started idles fine. Also have code p0117 coolant circuit low input. can you tell me where to look for that? if I did not plug something in, would that also relate to the hard start? Thanks Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Yes - that is the coolant temp sensor on the back of the coolant cross-over. Next to the gauge sender. Both are at the back to the left of the throttle body. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 so i found thee 2 plugs, the spade connector i found where it goes, the 2 pin one, i can not find a home for. i assume it is one of the two you mentioned. going to go look again,, also on the crossover near the other one? also, the alt. is not charging. does it go anywhere except to the battery? the bolted wire and the plug connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Yeah it's right next to the one with the spade. Much easier with the intake unbolted. LoL. The alternator just has the two connections. Check the fuses in the main panel under the hood. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 found them. man the one is right under the wires. hard to see hard to get at. working good now. Alt is putting out 10V, at idle. 14 if i rev the engine. so it is working. but maybe weak? or ok to leave on the car for now. Thanks so much, a few left to button up, then a drive.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Alt shouldn't be that low at idle. Either the belt is slipping, the idle speed is too low, or it's bad. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whynot Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 what should the idle be. i checked the belt is it ok idle now is about 775 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 That's normal for idle. Alt must be shot then. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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