EA81. Replaced accelerator cable and now weird things are happening

[Newdesertfoxowner]

Hey guys an introduction first. As of 3 weeks ago I'm the new owner of the Desert Fox! 1984 Subaru DL Wagon. I just replaced the throttle (accelerator) cable as it was binding up during the beginning of the pedal travel. Heres what happened afterwards.

Let sit for about 30 minutes because the engine had probably flooded from me fiddling with the throttle getting the new cable on.

Went out and started it without pumping the pedal at all. Car started but idled high, revved it up. Let it run a minute. Blipped the pedal and idle dropped down.

I shut the car off. Started it again without pumping the pedal at all and it idled high. Let it run for a minute again. Blipped the throttle and it dropped down again. I shut it off.

Pumped the pedal to the floor once, released, and started it. Idled high again. Blipped the pedal and it stayed where it was as far as idling. Let it run for a bit. Shut it down.

Got out and adjusted the nuts on the cable sheath. Thinking that might have something to do with it?

Tried to start without touching pedal. No start. Feathered the pedal as I cranked. No start. Fully depressed pedal and released. No start. Fully depressed pedal 3 times and released. No start.

Adjusted the cable sheath nuts back to where they were originally.

My normal starting process is pedal to the floor once and release and it starts right up. Even when is 20°F out its 30 today.

Same thing with the no start. I'm going to let it sit overnight and try it tomorrow unless anyone has an idea.

[GeneralDisorder]

It is supposed to idle high when you "set" the choke by depressing the pedal to the floor once (or a couple times if it's really cold) and release. You should allow it to idle high for a 20 seconds to a minute before touching the throttle. When you blip the throttle with the engine running the engine vacuum can unset the choke (but not always - depends on where it's at in it's travel, etc) and the idle will drop to wherever the fast idle cam on the linkage is currently allowing it to drop to. Once fully up to temp it should have a normal 750 RPM idle speed. 

These are the ways of carbureted engines. This is normal operation - it is not like fuel injection where you just turn the key and drive.

GD 

[Newdesertfoxowner]

Thank you! I'm new to carbureted engines and am not super familiar with them. Any information is appreciated.

[Newdesertfoxowner]

Update. Just went out and started it. One pump to the floor and released. Started right up. I believe it was just flooded. Still is idling high after a few minutes though. Engine is warm to the touch but idle is stil high. Excessively so it seems. Will look into it more tomorrow. Too dark tonight. Any suggestions welcome still.

[DaveT]

It's been a long time since I had a car with a carb.  But the high idle stays on for minutes if you don't touch the gas.  Yours may or may not be out of adjustment.   But in cold temperatures, minutes of high idle were normal.  Like long enough to scrape the ice off most of the windows on a wagon long enough.  Those old mechanical systems were not as precise as modern computer controlled engines.  Don't expect it to drop on its own until close to normal operating temperature,  not just warm to the touch / warmer than the air.

[el_freddo]

My brumby will sound like it’s revving it’s tits off before the auto choke drops the revs. This can take several minutes in our winter, less if any in summer. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[jono]

A proper measure would be to tolerate it until temp gauge suggests it is at operating temp as that is where it will be used most then see if happy with idle speed and engine behaviour and drivability

Work backwards from there.

You could check with face book crowd and be told to fit a Weber

It may help if carb is spotlessly clean outside so you can inspect for worn out linkages or holes linkages connect to ...