redrum3433 Posted June 30, 2004 Share Posted June 30, 2004 So the other day i was reading my oil pressure gauge and it said i was at normal pressure, then slowly but surely it started to go down as a traveled about 5 miles. And my oil was fine. So i drove on, and sure enough it did it again. So im not sure whats goin on. And besides that problem i cant idle, my car will just die, and no matter how much i adjust the idle RPM it does nothing. The tach just goes down so low that my car dies. so when i am driving and have to stop i put it neutral let off of the clutch, brake with my left foot (which usually means i press too hard and jerk myself, but i have gotten better... kinda) and i have to give it a little bit of gas, then i put on my e brake put it in 1st then and i have to make so i can get it. Its really really complicated. And yesterday my key broke off in my ignition, and i cant get it out. and it is stuck in the "on" positioin. So i had to disconnect my battery terminal. I know there are other problems but i cant think of them right now. but if anybody has any solutions i would be incredibly grateful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 30, 2004 Share Posted June 30, 2004 Dude - if you want some assistance with this thing - contact me. Hehe. First - that carb needs a rebuild, or needs to go away completely.... sounds like the idle circuit is jacked up. Either that or you have a vacuum leak. You can spray around with carb cleaner to locate leaks..... I've got an ignition switch with a key - $10 and it's yours. The key won't match your doors, but I'm betting you don't care.... I wouldn't charge you at all for it except they are hard to find... You may need an oil pump reseal - costs about $6 for the seal kit, and takes about 30 minutes to do. Really helps with the oil pressure. You might also need a new sending unit - they go bad pretty frequently. About $35 new.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 30, 2004 Share Posted June 30, 2004 I wouldnt trust the stock oil pressure guage. Every EA81 Subaru ive had has never gave me correct Oil pressure readings. i end up replacing them with manual oil pressure gauges, which work ALOT better. A simple weber will solve that carb problem too -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 30, 2004 Share Posted June 30, 2004 Yes - the guages aren't accurate, but what troubles me about your description is the change in the guage while driving. It sounds, from your description that the change is fairly rapid? Some change is normal due to the oil getting thinner as it heats up, but you said you stopped and it returned to normal, then dropped again? How long were you stopped? Did it have a chance to cool off durring that period? GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 my guage drops to 0 all the time, dont trust that thing, if you loose oil pressure you will hear it. your idle could be adjusted higher, so it doesnt die, and if you run seafoam it might work good as new. and the key... put on a toggel and a push button. i hate takin that thing out of subarus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 and no matter how much i adjust the idle RPM it does nothing Apparently he already tried that. The whole ignition assembly is quite easy to remove from an EA81. You remove the steering wheel and the upper and lower column covers, and then there are 4 bolts that you can remove with a pair of needle nose vise grips, and the whole ignition assembly will slide right off the column. I can remove one in about 15 minutes.... maybe less. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 GD=angry you can fix carbs by reving them, then stickin your hand over the carb, till it amost dies. makes huge vaccum in the carb and sucks everything out through the jets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 GD=angry you can fix carbs by reving them, then stickin your hand over the carb, till it amost dies. makes huge vaccum in the carb and sucks everything out through the jets. Not angry - just being helpful. So this "trick" of yours will fix the worn throttle shafts in a Hitachi with 200k on it? Or the gas-disolved gaskets and o-rings in it? Or maybe the crumbling accelerator pump? Also - revving it and sticking your hand over the carb could indeed clean out the jets, but since his problem is with the idle circuit, which is not engaged what so ever when the throttle plates are open, it won't really do anything now will it? No gas is flowing through the portion of the carb that is responsible for idleing..... besides that, we have not determined that his problem isn't a vacuum leak - and no amount of carb cleaning will fix that. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Is it me or is GD angrier in his last post? As for the problem, do you have problems accelerating? If you do, maybe the two fuel filters? If no probs on accel....then I wouldn't know what to do. As far as the pressure guage.. In my 83 GL WAGON, ...the fuel guage rarely works, only the "low fuel light" when I am .5gal away from empty. My pressure guage jumps from 25 to 5. and volt-o guage comes on when it feels like. I'm fairly new to these boards and I have found out that Sube guages aren't to be trusted (Execpt speed-o and tach (sometimes)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Is it me or is GD angrier in his last post? Its just you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 I dont think GD is that angry, but just a little peeved at all the false info bein posted. Ive read around and saw a few other places people posted and i realize that most people share the knowledge they have and hope to be helpful, even though sometimes it is completely off. Im sure for somone who is an expert such as himself it may get kind of tiring so dont give him a hard time, besides if he wasnt around most of you would be royally effed so lay off his back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 your idle circuit doesnt have a cutoff switch, ceptwhen the cars not runing. you idle circuit is spitting gas, even when its floored. the hand choke trick works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Sorry Arch, but I'm afraid you do not understand the functioning of a carburetor very well. Here is a great article on the inner workings of the Hitachi downdraft: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_carb_tuning_guide.html As far as the idle circuit goes, I think you have mistakenly associated the word "circuit" with something electrical - which it is not. The term cicuit is used to describe the path of gasoline and air inside a carb. The idle circuit, if it did have some sort of cutoff (which, as you surmised, it does not) would therefore not be called a switch, but rather a valve. At any rate, here is a wonderful description from the above article describing the working of the idle circuit (this applies to just about any carb actually - but this article happens to be about Hitachi downdrafts. The explanation works equally well for a carter/weber, or a Weber DGV - which this article also discusses). The idle mixture enters the throttle bore through a small hole placed just below the edge of the throttle plate in its idle position, and which the needle screw pokes into from behind, figure 4. Due to the position of this hole near the edge of the throttle plate in it's almost-closed idle position, the functioning of the idle circuit drops off rapidly as the throttle plate is opened and the hole is exposed to atmospheric pressure. So, the engine is idling and you step on the gas. As the throttle plate opens, the idle circuit starts losing the vacuum which made it work....If you open the throttle plates and create an artificial vacuum by covering the intake, you will simply flood the engine from the main jet's. The idle circuit is very small and requires a high amount of vacuum with the throttle plates nearly closed to operate at all. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 easy way to tell if you have a vac leak is to see if the engine shakes badly when idling around 700 rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camosuba Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 maybe the idle cut off solenoid is dodgy that would make it not idle the wire could have come off or there is some crud in the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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