Bush Ride needing Diag assist. 93 legacy, ej22

[legacy93wagon]

Here it is dead of winter in the interior of Alaska, and I am having some issues with my loved 93 legacy ( my normal winter ride) 

So if you have interest, time, and the heart to take a look and think with me I would be thankful. 

 

Recently Regardless of temperature -10f to 28f  she will not go anywhere under acceleration, jump kind of bog down and sputter.  She will Rev up  out of gear, but in gear she sputters pops and sounds like an old man trying to breath. If due to flat surface / down hill  she can get up to speed without load and get rpms up in gear it does better, but the next hill still puts me coughing and weazing on the shoulder at 1-3 mph. 

 Some basic info. 

5w30 full synthetic ( full syn needed for my temps in winter) 

coolant level full at 70% mix ( we saw -58 last winter strong mix needed) 

trans in vehicle  about 10k miles  with about 60k total miles on trans. 

ignition coil, plugs, and wires  replaced within last three years and maybe 15k miles 

 

Here is a video of the symptoms when they are mild: https://youtu.be/2g5ZnoW610o

Edited November 24, 2018 by legacy93wagon

[1 Lucky Texan]

vacuum gauge testing can sometimes be helpful - you can find lots of info and videos on-line how to use it. Often a free loaner from a parts store. clogged exhaust, burned valves, etc. can sometimes be found with it.

check timing, if it's jumped a tooth, that could kill power.

bad knock sensors sometimes won't throw a code, they will kill power as the timing is severely retarded. one of the few parts where cheap aftermarket seem to work fine for people.

try a battery reset for the ECU and see how the car runs better  IMMEDIATELY afterwards. If it is just as bad, you're probably looking for something physical, if it runs better, you probably have a sensor or its wiring bad somewhere.

[legacy93wagon]

2 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

vacuum gauge testing can sometimes be helpful - you can find lots of info and videos on-line how to use it. Often a free loaner from a parts store. clogged exhaust, burned valves, etc. can sometimes be found with it.

check timing, if it's jumped a tooth, that could kill power.

bad knock sensors sometimes won't throw a code, they will kill power as the timing is severely retarded. one of the few parts where cheap aftermarket seem to work fine for people.

try a battery reset for the ECU and see how the car runs better  IMMEDIATELY afterwards. If it is just as bad, you're probably looking for something physical, if it runs better, you probably have a sensor or its wiring bad somewhere.

Thanks, 

You remind me, worth mention, No Exhaust from just before the cat . Car has not had a cat in three years either :0P

Timing belt is exposed as I run this car, ( replace it often out of paranoia one winter, then one summer and they  look rough up here) Will take a look at it when I hike back to the car. 

Thanks again for the response and looking forward to more thoughts and ideas as those interested have them

 

 

[wtdash]

I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor.

Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is  the  actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.

[naru2]

Do a compression test and check the plugs.

Kinda sounds like it is running on 3 cyl.

Idle is low too.

See if unplugging the CTS makes any difference.

[el_freddo]

Checked for codes?

It could also be a dead/dirty throttle position sensor or air flow meter. 

Hows the air filter in this thing - fresh/dirty??

Cheers 

Bennie

[legacy93wagon]

On 11/24/2018 at 4:06 PM, wtdash said:

I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor.

Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is  the  actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.

CTS is only a $9 part so Good place to start ! 

 

On 11/26/2018 at 10:28 AM, naru2 said:

Do a compression test and check the plugs.

Kinda sounds like it is running on 3 cyl.

Idle is low too.

See if unplugging the CTS makes any difference.

Don't have tools for Compression test, 108 miles  for parts store :0/  Pulled one plug at a time during idle. At idle anyways it is running on all 4. 

Will try the CTS unplug  When I get back to the vehicle ( replaced it 2016) 

19 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Checked for codes?

It could also be a dead/dirty throttle position sensor or air flow meter. 

Hows the air filter in this thing - fresh/dirty??

Cheers 

Bennie

On OBD 1  how would one check for codes ? Thanks 

If air filter is removed completely behavior is the same. Cleaned K&N type. If I disconnect MAS it dies completely ( any leads for economical replacement  to test ? ) 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the Advice, will Post back once I have given  the suggested remaining checks a go ! 

 

[wtdash]

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

we call that a  MAF (mass airflow). The '92-'98/'99 green label MAF (JECS and AUTECS) are all the same on the 2.2 and 2.5 Subaru non-turbo. Not sure if the aftermarket parts are good for the MAF.

Edited November 28, 2018 by wtdash

[el_freddo]

If you’re running an oiled k&n filter you may have coated the AFM in oil and restricted its ability to properly do its job. 

It may not throw a code either. Paper filters are the best yet option in these!

To check for codes: remove driver’s kick panel above the driver’s feet area. Up near the steering column you will find a set of plugs, one set green, another set black. 

If I recall correctly, plug the black plugs in together (if you can’t find them they could be taped to the main loom. Take a torch with you and look around in that area).

Once you’ve got the plugs connected, turn the ignition into the ON position without running the engine. You should hear the fuel pump cycling on and off. If not, disconnect the black plugs and connect the green plugs together. 

On the instrument cluster the check engine light will flash. Long flash for tens, quick flash for ones. If no codes it will give a series of quick flashes to indicate the market designation of the ecu. 

The ecu will show all stored codes then cycle through them again until you turn the ignition off. This allows you to check and triple check your code recording. 

These codes will then relate to specific sensors on the engine. These are the sensors to check up on/replace. 

The list of codes can be found on the forum somewhere or in a basic maintenance manual such as Haynes or Gregory’s

Knowing thatyiure running a K&N filter I reckon this is the issue.

Cheers 

Bennie

edit: duh, just looked at the link from wtdash AFTER writing all of the above out...

Edited November 28, 2018 by el_freddo