Baja Chokes + Radio & Instruments Go Dead

[rp2813]

As expected, several weeks later the problem has returned.

Now I'm fairly certain the alternator has issues.  I used a volt meter to check alternator function and it seemed fine, but I waited and left the car running for about 15 minutes.  I jiggled the green connector and voltage decreased into the very low 13 range, but then recovered to 14.5 where it had been fairly steadily since starting the car.  I couldn't recreate the trouble so then I got a rubber mallet and gave the alternator itself a good rap.  Immediately the voltage reading dropped back into the danger zone.  Jiggling the connector didn't change anything.  I gave a few more raps and voltage would rise to normal with one or two hits, then drop back down with another rap or two.

My feeling now is that the alternator has a failed/failing component and that the whole thing needs to be replaced, which is something I can do myself.

Is there any reason to think it's something else?  I'm looking at used alternators that have tested good and have a brief warranty period so in case I'm wrong about this, I won't have spent a lot on a replacement.

[brus brother]

Won't say I told you so because I didn't since smarter members than I (Nipper and Jonathan) were already chiming in. As a long time lurker here I have seen many gremlins turn out to be the result of a failing alternator. 

Similarly, I have read that aftermarkets are a headache waiting to recur. Better a rebuilt from Subaru which aren't that much more expensive than aftermarket ones. Maybe even rebuild your own instead of trading it in for a sketchy aftermarket?

Edited January 28, 2019 by brus brother

[heartless]

best course of action here would be to find a good alternator/starter rebuild shop that has a good reputation in your area... ask around.

pick up a used unit from a yard.. swap it in, and get your original one rebuilt with quality parts.. once done, put it back in the car. Or, if you can live without the car for a few days/week, just take the alt in & have it done, skip the used one.

I did this on my 95 Legacy.. except I already had an aftermarket handy to stuff in while the original got rebuilt. Yes, it was a little bit more cost than just buying one, but well worth it.

Edited January 28, 2019 by heartless

[3Pin]

I go to a battery place where they test the battery and confirm if the alt is charging it.  Takes 5 minutes.

 

[brus brother]

38 minutes ago, 3Pin said:

I go to a battery place where they test the battery and confirm if the alt is charging it.  Takes 5 minutes.

 

I guess you would need to bring your hammer to "adjust" the alternator while they test it?

You did check/clean all the connections?

If so, I would assume that you already did the diagnosis with your hammer.

[rp2813]

I'm a procrastinator.  Until the problem recurred, I just drove the vehicle waiting for it to happen again since battery replacement was highly suspect by myself and others here as a simple and lasting solution.  The Baja is not my daily driver or the problem would have presented itself again a lot sooner than it did.

Since the voltage was holding steady when I tested yesterday (like any problem that won't occur when you bring it to a mechanic), I decided to imitate as best I could a situation similar to driving over the many crumbling streets around here, so I tried the rubber mallet.  My logic was, if it's intermittent, something is likely loose.  I doubt a good/new OEM alternator would have responded the same way. 

I do have a good rebuilder locally.   An aftermarket alternator was never an option.  OEM used and tested or rebuilt is all I've considered.

@ brus bro:  It's not like I took a hard swing with a sledge hammer in an attempt to destroy the alternator.  It was a rubber mallet and it didn't take much of an impact to create the failure or to restore proper operation. There's a big difference between a metal hammer and a rubber mallet.  Look it up or have someone draw you a picture, and spare me the condescension.    

Thanks to those who have provided helpful input.

[brus brother]

1 hour ago, rp2813 said:

@ brus bro:  It's not like I took a hard swing with a sledge hammer in an attempt to destroy the alternator.  It was a rubber mallet and it didn't take much of an impact to create the failure or to restore proper operation. There's a big difference between a metal hammer and a rubber mallet.  Look it up or have someone draw you a picture, and spare me the condescension.    

Thanks to those who have provided helpful input.

really?? no one said anything about hard swing with a sledge...

wiki def: A mallet is a kind of hammer

you've been schooled hope that was helpful enough for you

Edited January 28, 2019 by brus brother

[rp2813]

Thanks so much.  That will be quite helpful.  I can correct others the next time I play croquet, which is likely never.  I'll be sure not to be so specific about implements going forward.

For other contributors, here's the latest:  I pulled the alternator and it's an aftermarket part without any identifying label or number, and a different looking housing from the OEM Mitsubishi (A2TB2891ZC).  Based on that, I won't pursue a rebuild.

I found a used and tested OEM Mitsubishi alternator nearby with a six month warranty, for cheap.  Should it fail at some point in the future, it will be worth rebuilding.  If the trouble arises again in short order, at least I'll not have invested much and will have a factory correct alternator.