Yes... Another conversion thread, hold your roasting!!!

[Al Zhiemer]

Ok, so the time has come to do the conversion. I think I have read every thread I can find on the topic and just want to clarify  that I have all the correct info before I start as at times there seems to be some conjecture on what you do need and what you don't need.

"L" SERIES PARTS I HAVE...

5 Speed Manual Dual Range

Tailshaft

Clutch Cable

Pedal Box if needed

Gearbox Cross Member if needed

Complete Clutch Kit

Basically everything I could find relating to the 5 speed manual out of an "L" series wagon when I wrecked it.

THE PLAN...

Machine the EA81 flywheel down to 21mm to accommodate the EA82 clutch kit.

EA81 starter motor with a 4mm spacer between the starter motor and the bell housing.

Modify the EA81 gearbox cross member mounts to fit to the EA82 gearbox, for the resources I have on hand at the moment I think this is my easiest and quickest option. And knowing in the future that a EJ22 conversion is on the cards, I'll deal with it properly then.

Use the "L" series tail shaft, will need to make a mounting point for the center bearing.

Modify the Brumby pedal box to accommodate the "L" series clutch cable. Thinking I might just get the Brumby pedal box cable end fitted to the "L" series clutch cable for this.

Modify the Brumby gear levers to fit to the 5 speed gearbox so I can keep the original Brumby shift levers. I want to keep my center console. Any body done this and has any advice on what needs to be done would be greatly appreciated.

Other than that, I think that is all that is needed to be done. Any advice?

[idosubaru]

do the EJ conversion now, or at the same time. 

[jono]

If you follow my method I can help. Retain the L box levers and use L console to suit or cut the other L console that does not suit.

pedal box cut off Brumby cable mount to flush. 10 mm thick x 40 mm spacer block of alloy to mount L cable between cable and pedal box. Throw L pedal box away after snaffling clutch pedal and safety pin of brake pedal to push rod use this at pedal end of clutch cable. L cable is longer so Brumby cable too short. Be prepared to remove seats. Get string line. Know that output shaftof box rrear and tail shaft and diff flange is all not central in car

[jono]

Only when box is in and mounted with engine in place and engine tramp stay rod in correct adjustment do you make hole in trans tunnel about 25 mm tear of stick hole for that mount at rear of gearbox levers stay rod thingy

[alexbuoy]

I used the stock pedal box assembly and clutch cable on my conversion. Use the 4 speed brackets on the 5 speed, needs a little modifying.

[el_freddo]

If right hand drive do what Jono said. 

If left hand drive the stock clutch cable will reach where it needs to go if I’ve read this detail correctly. 

Use the L shifter and the brumby 4wd lever. You’ll need to cut and weld the 4wd brumby lever rod to the L series 4wd selector rod. Make sure you measure it all up properly the first time!

I’m not sure if the L levers will need to be cut down to fit in the trans tunnel hole of the Brumby. Either way, use the L levers with the brumby console. It’ll look factory

Cheers 

Bennie

[jono]

my first conversion was using a 200mm clutch not the 225mm - a diameter shared by later EA81 and all EA82. I retained the 200mm pressure plate and used a petrol Gemini (Isuzu) 1.6 l friction plate that loosely fitted the five speeds input shaft and was 200mm but problem was the throw out bearing connected further out than desired 225mm style and always required pedal to floor to engage disengage. then next conversion involved an EA82 and I found EA81 pedal pulled 15mm measured at clutch fork end. An L clutch requires 25mm, an L pedal delivered - much better :)

[Al Zhiemer]

Thanks guys, the plan has rapidly grown... Figured while the old girl is pulled down this far I may as well start making the 2" lift kit for it at the same time, so off to buy some steel today and start making up a couple of gearbox mounting brackets and the lift kit. Oh... And off to the tyre joint to order some 27" Kuhmo KL71's.

I really need to find a good condition Gen 1 2.2 motor now, only been able to find some real POS in my local area.

Thanks, Jono but I really want to keep my center console, it's out of the touring wagon that has the center dash and center console blended in together. Its in really good condition and I like keeping things at least resembling period correct. I never have been a big fan of cutting up interior plastics, even more so on older cars where its hard to even find good clean replacement plastics.

Using the 225mm EA81 flywheel, got the step machined down to 21mm, went down and enquired about it, was told to come back and pick it up in a couple of hours and $55 later. Combining that with the EA82 clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

It seems the clutch pedal modification is the way to go? For $125 (mates rates), I was just going to get the "L" series cable made with a Brumby pedal box end on it.

Bennie, its a RHD vehicle... Sunshine Coast area. Am yet to start on the levers, figured I'd wait until the engine and gearbox are back in the car and try and work it out from there.

Cheers

P.S. If I could work out how to post up pics of Ruby Doo and the work thats been done and going on I would.

 

[el_freddo]

You need an image host site like photobucket etc. then use the direct link with some forum code to show the image in your thread. 

As for your location, I can’t see that detail on my phone without looking at your profile page, something I rarely do... it wasn’t until I posted about the rhd/lhd comment that I noticed you used the “brumby” name... then it clicked that you must’ve been from Oz! 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Steptoe]

New L clutch cable genuine close to $100 from Subaru this year. Really need the extra leverage that the L pedal crank gives.