Who needs keys? or locks re-keyed?

[uhcsed]

Hi, Everyone.

I have a 1988 Subaru XT-6 that's been sitting in a garage untouched (except for the piles of stuff on it) for the last 18 years. I loved driving that thing...I'm going to make a more general post after I gather more information, but I'm posting on this thread first, because...after that long, I can't find even one key although I know they exist somewhere, and without that, I can't even turn the wheel, let alone the engine. I've been to numerous hardware stores, including one that specializes in key making without luck, and the local subaru dealer says that they got rid of the machine they needed to produce one from the VIN. Can YOU do that or know a dealer who still can? I'd rather not rip a lock out of it if I don't have to, but if so, would the trunk one work? What's easiest?

Thanks very much! Have a great day and be safe, everyone.

[robmillion]

there's no way to get a code from the VIN anymore if the dealer doesn't have those records. but you may be in luck, some Subarus had the lock codes written on the inside of the glovebox, (either on the glovebox lock itself, or on a tag inside the glovebox) so check there first. they did that up to the early 90s, but they didn't always do it. next best option is on the passenger door cylinder, but that still means you'll have to take out that lock, so its certainly not as easy as looking in the glovebox! they stopped doing that in the 90s as well.

if the code isn't on the cylinder, you can send me the lock and i'll decode it and a make a key for you and send it back. $35 including return postage and 2 keys. that's a good deal, and is basically my "friend price". my normal "customer price" if they bring the lock to me, is about $45-75 for most cars, depending on the car...could even be more.

anyway, if the code is there and you want me to make the keys for you, i can do that as well, for $20, including shipping and 2 keys.

but, since i won't have the lock here, i can't guarantee that the key will work in the locks. i can guarantee that my keys are cut accurately, but there could be other issues with the lock, such as stuck or bent tumblers, incorrect code, somebody re-keyed the locks in the past, other locks were replaced, etc. Same deal with the other locks if you send me one. i can obviously only guarantee the specific locks i work on, and not any of the other ones on the car.

oh yeah, and you could just send me the trunk lock to decode if you don't want to deal with the hassle of taking out the passenger door lock to look for the code. let's hope the code is in the glovebox!

hopefully this helps, even if you don't end up getting the keys from me.

 

Edited July 17, 2020 by robmillion

[idosubaru]

Passengers side code is on the lock cylinder of every XT6 I’ve looked at.  I think they needed removed to be read, it’s been awhile but I don’t think I could read the numbers without pulling it. 

[Loyalew/cheese]

I have a 93 Loyale that I have lost the keys for while moving unfortunately.

I was able to locate a 5 digit code on the passenger lock barrel. I did not take the barrel all the way out, but I did not see any other numbers on it so I assume this is the right combination to be able to make new keys? Or is the whole lock assembly required to make new keys? I also looked on the trunk lock barrel but didn't see any numbers there. 

The key I had worked for the doors and the ignition so I am assuming if I have a key made for the door lock that it will work for the ignition.

I appreciate any help! 

 

 

[robmillion]

19 minutes ago, Loyalew/cheese said:

I have a 93 Loyale that I have lost the keys for while moving unfortunately.

I was able to locate a 5 digit code on the passenger lock barrel. I did not take the barrel all the way out, but I did not see any other numbers on it so I assume this is the right combination to be able to make new keys? Or is the whole lock assembly required to make new keys? I also looked on the trunk lock barrel but didn't see any numbers there. 

The key I had worked for the doors and the ignition so I am assuming if I have a key made for the door lock that it will work for the ignition.

I appreciate any help! 

 

 

the code for that car should be the letter X followed by 4 digits. if it's just 5 numbers, it might only be a part # for the lock. Subaru stopped putting the codes on the pass lock sometime in the early 90's, so for a 93 it's hard to say if it will be there.

don't post the code publicly, but if you want to DM me the code, i'll check it out. and if you want, i can make 2 keys and send them to you for 20 bucks if it is a code. obviously i can't guarantee that they will work, but i can guarantee that the keys will be cut accurately to the code you provide.

Edited July 18, 2020 by robmillion

[croak]

Any idea how to get at these pins? I assume the tiny roll pin has to come out. 

[robmillion]

3 minutes ago, croak said:

Any idea how to get at these pins? I assume the tiny roll pin has to come out. 

yes i believe so, but you may also need a working key to turn the cylinder to the open position (or pick it). these locks have wafers, not pins, not that it matters functionally, but just so you know. what does the back look like? i might be able to give you a more definite answer if i can see another retaining clip or something. that's the glovebox lock? it looks different than any that i've had.

anyway, if you need to get the roll pin out, it's not a fun job... drill a really small hole right next to it (smaller than the roll pin if possible) and pry it out with a small sharp tool, like an ice pick. then you can re-use the roll pin when you put it back together. don't drill too deep or you'll damage the plug. you don't even need to drill all the way through. and take your time with it. it's easy to damage it trying to drill it and with prying on it. don't forget you want to be able to put it back together and have it stay together, so that roll pin needs to be able to be seated back in it's hole and stay there.

 

[croak]

Thanks, didn’t think about a hole next to it. Yes it is the glove box lock. Nothing on the back, solid casting with 2 threaded mounting holes. I can take a picture, but nothing of interest in the casting. I can pick it to get in to it if needed, it only has 2 pin/wafers in it, not sure if that is original or someone has been in there. I tried to pick it in every direction, hoping there was an opening, but no luck. Interesting note, I re pined (wafer) the doors the other day(super easy with kit) and It was not necessary to pick the lock to get the core out, slid right out once the cover was off (gen 1). 
 

Found attached online, was able to decode with calipers before the kit showed up. 
 

Thanks again for your help

Hit me up if anyone needs wafers, I don’t want to let go of the whole kit, but happy to share if you know what you need. 

[dburton97128]

So my 2003 Outback LLBean H6 ignition keys started hanging up when inserted and won't turn.  My original, which may be worn a bit as well, barely works with persuasion.  Subaru won't do me a key.  They threw away all the key codes older than 10 years.  Why in their right mind would they do that?

Dealer wants $500 to put in a new ignition that then would not match the doors.

What's the chance it's just a key problem and the ignition is still good?  Not sure I can be without the car long enough to tear it all out and send to NY and back, but don't want to get totally stranded either.  Are there any Subaru lock experts in OR who could do this?  If I had a chart for my key like that above I could maybe program it to cut on my milling machine

Anyone ever tear open an ignition and re-condition it somehow?

Thanks.

Edited August 13, 2020 by dburton97128
edit

[robmillion]

3 hours ago, dburton97128 said:

So my 2003 Outback LLBean H6 ignition keys started hanging up when inserted and won't turn.  My original, which may be worn a bit as well, barely works with persuasion.  Subaru won't do me a key.  They threw away all the key codes older than 10 years.  Why in their right mind would they do that?

Dealer wants $500 to put in a new ignition that then would not match the doors.

What's the chance it's just a key problem and the ignition is still good?  Not sure I can be without the car long enough to tear it all out and send to NY and back, but don't want to get totally stranded either.  Are there any Subaru lock experts in OR who could do this?  If I had a chart for my key like that above I could maybe program it to cut on my milling machine

Anyone ever tear open an ignition and re-condition it somehow?

Thanks.

you should be able to get the key itself decoded at any automotive locksmith (unless it's really worn). then they can cut you a new key to the original specs. if that doesn't work in the lock, then you have no choice. you will need to have the lock removed and repaired, or replaced. you can definitely get the new ignition lock re-keyed to your current key before it's installed though. the dealer won't be able to do the re-key, but a locksmith could. probably for a bit less than $500 too. i don't know the prices out there, but if i had to do it here it would probably be about $400 including parts, labor, and the re-keying.

before you do any of that though, check the glovebox and the owners manual if you still have it. sometimes the dealer writes the lock code in there. it will be a 5 digit number that starts with 3.

[dburton97128]

Thanks.  I called around and did find a local guy who thinks he can do it without removing anything by reading the key profile or probing the lock.  Here's hoping it's just the key and the ignition is still OK.  $25 vs $500.

[robmillion]

27 minutes ago, dburton97128 said:

Thanks.  I called around and did find a local guy who thinks he can do it without removing anything by reading the key profile or probing the lock.  Here's hoping it's just the key and the ignition is still OK.  $25 vs $500.

that's definitely possible to do, but i don't think that price is. unless you bring the lock to him... then maybe.

it'll probably be $25 to read the lock + $75 (or something) for the service call. the company i work for charges $110 just to show up (which includes the first hour). but even still, $100 is better than $500. it should take between 5 and 15 minutes to decode the lock and cut a new key. we would charge $45 for that, if the lock was brought to us, but i'm in NYC so it's probably cheaper out there. it would usually be $110 for us to go to the customer and do it, unless there was something really screwy that put it over an hour.

anyway, if he really told you he would come out to you and charge only 25 bucks, it's probably a scam, so be careful. a lot of shady "scammer locksmiths" will damage your lock (tell you it was already messed up and couldn't be decoded, but attempting to work on it made it completely inoperable) so you have no choice but to replace it. they will use the cheapest parts you can get and charge you even more than the dealer would have. it's actually a huge problem in our industry and gives honest locksmiths a bad reputation. we (locksmiths) are always trying to figure out ways to weed out the scammers and get them out of our business.

Edited August 13, 2020 by robmillion
missing info

[dburton97128]

Got the key code deciphered at the local key shop for $18.  3 additional keys for $13 more.  Seems to have worked.

Was able to get one key to work with persuasion and drove it in to the shop.

Edited August 14, 2020 by dburton97128
edit

[robmillion]

Ok awesome! That was my first suggestion. I'm glad it worked out!

[mkoch]

Heya!

 

Can you rebuild the ignition lock on a 1985 Brat ?   I am pretty sure that it is the same mechanism as 1984 gl, and generation 2 s.

 

I have a key which works, but not well.   I’d need new keys.   I could send the door locks as well.

 

Pictures of the ignition lock.  It was quite difficult to remove!

[Dwayne Oxford]

On 2/28/2019 at 12:40 AM, pawn_that_dude said:

A couple months ago, I lost my only master key, and turns out both of my spares are valet keys that don't lock the hatch or glove box. This causes three problems:

1. I can't lock the trunk with my current key.

2. I had to break into the glove box. The lock core is now broken. Turns out finding a new glove box lock core for a '84 GL isn't easy, regardless of key issues.

3. Subaru says the keys are too old to use their VIN lookup tool to make me a new one.

What do you suggest I do? How can I get a new master key made? Any ideas on the glove box?

Can prob fix you up with glovebox lock, got eight 80-84s.

 

[ZilosPirs]

It is very great that you are situated in New York. I already used the services of a locksmith in Texas from mylocallocksmithtx.com to create a copy of my keys. I have an old Mercedes, and the original keys have some malfunction on them. It is already old, and it isn't unlocking the car every time. I created another copy of keys in Texas, and everything was alright. Recently I lost the copy, and I have to use the original copy that isn't working ok. So I would like to contact you and find out how I can use your services.

Edited November 10, 2021 by ZilosPirs