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Idea for 4 pin module turbo dizzy


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A work in progress to mount a common old two pin module in the 85,86 style turbo dizzies, and I suspect will work for EA81T

The idea is to mount the block to dizzy plate using the mounting holes for the module. You could try drilling,tapping into the tough old stainless steel ( or is it took steel? :( ) plate if you can get drill to drill once correct spot!

There is enough in the difference mounting distances between the four pin original module to be comfortable drilling and tapping holes for two pin module inside from the four pin module/ block mounting holes.

This mod should allow for safe sensible driving to get most out of trouble if/ when the four pin spark delay type module fails. By retaining original distributor allows to keep boost retard function of vacuum advance/ boost retard can - so long as no holes in it !!

For a one piece mounting adaptor block it needs to be this shape to fit inside dizzy body and clear the rotating plate in the centre

I may need to turn the underside into a heatsink for I fear in this form it will be a heat bank

 

You could do two mirror image mounting blocks

I wish I was a 3D printer!

I think this is MKiv and due to parralax error I felt the need to trim it too far

I am making these 1980s style..maybe draconic 1970s style.highschool workshop methods except no smart arse hard marking teacher breathing down my neck! Slow and tedious and no precision at all

Funny, realised I have something he made - should pass it to old class mates to mark him on it :)

The original module sits on 8 ? mm high spacers .

i tried to replicate the position of the module and found 10 mm space was going to be exact

But, will this module work at this 10 mm elevation?

i don't know if it's construction, how,why or what the...about how it's innards react with the stator star thing etc

Wow. Photo looks ok. I had adjusted device to take VGA grade pic. Loaded fast.

Will need its own two wire lead to a suitable coil LP

Comments?

Ideas!

Suggestions?

all welcome

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Edited by Steptoe
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For drilling the stainless, or moderately hardened steel, I found there are bits for the purpose.
They are solid carbide.  Must be used in a drill press or milling machine, not a hand held drill.  I drilled a hole in a hardened stainless steel part with one.  The kind of stainless that instantly dulls even a cobalt steel drill.  The drills aren't that bad price wise, but if you want to tap the hole.....

 

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That would be way cool if that works! Why wouldn't it?

Why can't subaru distributors use one of those digital boxes like msd to alter the timing? Does it have something to do with the timing changes the computer makes for efi? Ea82t is four wire?

The only distributor i have ever messed with was the gm hei for the inline six. Two wires is nice.

That distributor is cool, truly no maintenance! I have these old as$ plug wires that work better than new ones lol! They are like 30 years old at least!

Forgive my ignorance on most things ea...i wanted to do the ej swap so bad i only got as far as the timing belt...don't worry the engine went to someone not trying to hot rod a damn subaru wagon haha! I'll never scrap one, I'll give it away first.

In fact i have some bedtime reading here...more like bedtime, reading :lol:

20190116_201442.thumb.jpg.f1ba48238ec4630c178367f33d7d7666.jpg

 

Edited by sparkyboy
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22 minutes ago, DaveT said:

For drilling the stainless, or moderately hardened steel, I found there are bits for the purpose.
They are solid carbide.  Must be used in a drill press or milling machine, not a hand held drill.  I drilled a hole in a hardened stainless steel part with one.  The kind of stainless that instantly dulls even a cobalt steel drill.  The drills aren't that bad price wise, but if you want to tap the hole.....

 

Carbide tipped drill bits are less money. Low RPM with lots of pressure & no cutting lube needed. There are spiral flute taps available for hard materials.

https://www.mcmaster.com/carbide-tipped-drill-bits

Because these are small diameter screws, you might get by with a cobalt bit on low rpm with a drill-tap fluid. Then work slowly with a hand tap keeping your hands as steady as you can, also with fluid like Tap Magic.

It's only two holes...........

 

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That's why the mounting block tinkering,no holes to Fuji up alignment wise - and had not thought that stainless also harder to tap. Others may like to try but I am going mounting block method

I will need to mount the block then the two pin module with tape around centre spindle to help align where module should sit then maybe start drill hole through modules holes, then reduce drill bit to suit M4 thread..

Why it may not work is I think there is a coil in the coil part of module. It may need to sit at correct height in relation to the stator star thing and magnet.....

MSD unit can do adjustable boost control knob and base setting - but no knock retard

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I don't think there is that much difference on the ignition modules for the later EA81(or EA81T) distributors.  Last time I had my EA81T distributor apart I recall thinking that the two-pin module would probably bolt right in, were it not for the two missing pins.  RockAuto doesn't even show the four-pin module when you pull up an EA81T, only the two-pin is available.

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3 hours ago, Steptoe said:

That's why the mounting block tinkering,no holes to Fuji up alignment wise - and had not thought that stainless also harder to tap. Others may like to try but I am going mounting block method

I will need to mount the block then the two pin module with tape around centre spindle to help align where module should sit then maybe start drill hole through modules holes, then reduce drill bit to suit M4 thread..

Why it may not work is I think there is a coil in the coil part of module. It may need to sit at correct height in relation to the stator star thing and magnet.....

MSD unit can do adjustable boost control knob and base setting - but no knock retard

Get yourself a set of transfer punches - useful for hole alignment any time before drilling. https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-8600-0041-Piece-Transfer-Punch/dp/B01ADBNEJE/ref=asc_df_B01ADBNEJE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13749367472588581549&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031106&hvtargid=pla-451461872588&psc=1

Knock controls for drag racing can get pricey for knock retard. This one was about $600 in 2008: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html

If you have an analog (needle) ohmmeter you could test your idea by waving that reluctor past the pickup to get an idea of where your 'sweet spot' is. 

 

 

 

 

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Wow, someone makes a tool like that?!

Exactly what I imagine a useful tool could be to 'invent' !!

Amazon demands that we Aussies use amazon.com.au which I felt was quoting me higher prices, reasonable postage, an impression that stock was in Oz, yet postage time similar as if it came from USA anyway

We tossed sales tax and replaced it with GST ( goods and services tax) in 2000 but until July last year GST did not apply to purchases overseas. When this applied eBay would hit us up separately for the GST and I think this is why Amazon steers us through its .com.au site

Will give them a shot on these.

Carfreak, lucky there is considerable difference in the mounting centres between the two as it allows for an easier adaptor

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