Need recommendation on headlight bulbs

[jeryst]

1998 Legacy Outback Limited

I commute a log distance to work every day, and a good portion of the drive is on secondary roads. I am looking for a recommendation of the brightest headlight bulbs available. I normally use Silver Star bulbs, but would like to have the brightest high beams possible, that are still reliable and dont cost a fortune. Some type of offroad bulbs would not be out of the question. I dont want auxiliary lighting because PA has some stringent rules on such lighting, including keeping covers on them unless off road. 

[carfreak85]

If you have plastic headlamp lenses, I would start by polishing those until they're crystal clear.  HIR bulbs might be your next logical step and are low hanging fruit versus your next best bet, which is a custom headlamp wiring harness with larger gauge wires, etc.

If you want to spend real money an HID or LED retrofit is the true answer.  I'm currently swapping Lexus RX350 bi-xenon projectors into my JDM STI headlamps.

The one thing you should avoid at ALL COSTS is the inexpensive LED/HID upgrades that put a halogen bulb base on an HID/LED bulb.  Not only are these illegal in all 50 states, but no matter what a company's marketing says about their product, you can't cheat physics.  Halogen lamps are designed to work with halogen bulbs.  HID lamps with HID bulbs, and LED lamps are designed around the way an LED outputs light.  YOU CANNOT REALISTICALLY MIX AND MATCH BULBS AND LAMPS and expect to actually have "better" night vision.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I might consider adding a coupla new lights.

on the bumper or on a bar.....

 

 

[jeryst]

1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

I might consider adding a coupla new lights.

on the bumper or on a bar.....

 

 

PA has very strict laws about extra lighting. They have to be covered unless offroad (been fined for that before). Also, they must all work and be wired properly or your car wont pass state inspection. Driving lights can only work when hgh beams are on, floods can only work when low beams are on. Big hassle all the way around

[1 Lucky Texan]

problem is, high output lights have reduced lifespan - that, plus, the xtra vibration of off-road will likely reduce the lifespan so, you'll be replacing them every 3-6 months. Some of them are hotter and might warp/melt the housing too.

 

are any of your bulbs 9005 or 9006? There are some Toshibas, 9011 and 9012 (I THINK, please search) HIR type bulbs that are about 20% brighter - just need a tab cut/filed down to work.

 

or some kind of Morimoto projector upgrade with HIDs  ?

[FerGloyale]

37 minutes ago, jeryst said:

PA has very strict laws about extra lighting. They have to be covered unless offroad (been fined for that before). Also, they must all work and be wired properly or your car wont pass state inspection. Driving lights can only work when hgh beams are on, floods can only work when low beams are on. Big hassle all the way around

You're driving lights in the lower bumper are already wired that way (on with lows, off with Hi)  and they are legal housings.  You can adjust them outeward a bit to hit the sides of the road.

Polish the headlight housings, and a good quality halogen bulb will be plenty bright.  3m makes a great polish kit.  

[john in KY]

First thing I would do is replace those 20-year old headlights with new ones. 

[ronemus]

I prefer Philips Crystal Vision Plus bulbs - they're bright white and last at least ten years (still working when I sold the cars).  They're a big improvement over OEM, and huge vs. old OEM bulbs.  I put them in my cars within a week of purchase.  If your local auto parts store doesn't carry them, they're available on Amazon.

[jonathan909]

 

On 2/8/2019 at 7:11 PM, ronemus said:

I prefer Philips Crystal Vision Plus bulbs - they're bright white and last at least ten years (still working when I sold the cars).  They're a big improvement over OEM, and huge vs. old OEM bulbs.  I put them in my cars within a week of purchase.  If your local auto parts store doesn't carry them, they're available on Amazon.

Thanks for the tip - though I'm desperate to brighten ours, I've been avoiding the hot aftermarket bulbs because of previous bad experiences with overpriced-and-ridiculously-short-lived ones.  I'll give these a shot.

For the plastic lens restoration, here's my two bits worth:  I've used both the Mothers and Meguiar's kits, and the latter is vastly superior.  Mothers gives you a couple of little teeny fingertip sanding pads; Meguiar's are much larger and come with a nice big handle.  The Meguiar's buffing pad is fabric, where the Mothers is a foam ball that explodes if (when) you over-rev the drill.  And the Meguiar's kit includes a bottle of UV protectant, absent in the Mothers kit.  Given that they're at the same price point (about $30), there's no contest.

[carfreak85]

For headlamp restoration I just buy whatever kit is on sale.  Once they start to yellow, they will neve stay clear again, so I just plan to polish and buff again in six months, unless I replace the lamps first.

[jeryst]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I havent had a chance to do anything yet. The fog lights in the lower bumper are pretty much worthless for my needs. Does anyone know of super bright driving lights that would be a direct swap for the fog lights?

[carfreak85]

There are likely no "direct swap" lamps on the market.  Find something close and modify to suit your needs.  I'd stick with a name brand, for quality design and long-term product support.

[Stevo F]

On 2/8/2019 at 9:11 PM, ronemus said:

I prefer Philips Crystal Vision Plus bulbs - they're bright white and last at least ten years (still working when I sold the cars).  They're a big improvement over OEM, and huge vs. old OEM bulbs.  I put them in my cars within a week of purchase.  If your local auto parts store doesn't carry them, they're available on Amazon.

I tried finding  Philips Crystal Vision Plus, but found  Philips Crystal Vision Ultra- however a lot of Amazon reviews said these weren't any brighter than OEM and don't last long, so the Ultra's don't sound that great. If the "Plus" are brighter and longer lasting, I'd love to find a set of 9003's for my Forester.

[ronemus]

They're available on Amazon

[crazyman03]

For lens cleaning I've used Meguiar's Headlight restore. (amazon - https://amzn.to/2Eq46vz) i actually *just* ordered that one to do my wifes' forester.
costs' about 30 bucks at Checkers/orilley's but TOTALLY worth it. I've even gone as far as using it on taillight lens' and they look brand stinking new. (pics below)

As far as light upgrades, you'll get flak one way or the other about doing LED/HID swaps. I do run HID's myself but they are *technically* intended for Projection lenses. Keep in mind you'll find 30w or 50w swap ins. 30's are BRIGHT enough if you swap them for hallogen - you dont need to spring for the 50+watts

pics of the lens' cleaned up. 

.. 

 

-Justin

[carfreak85]

On ‎3‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 6:51 PM, crazyman03 said:

As far as light upgrades, you'll get flak one way or the other about doing LED/HID swaps. I do run HID's myself but they are *technically* intended for Projection lenses.

HIDs are not designed for any particular style lamp.  The geometry of the lamp's reflectors and lenses are what dictate what is compatible.

For example the 04-05 WRX has halogen headlamps while the same body style STI uses HIDs.  Put both lamps side-by-side and look at the geometry of the guts inside the lamp.  Similar, but different, because of the way each different style of bulb (Halogen/LED/HID) produces light.

[nipper]

On 2/8/2019 at 4:51 PM, john in KY said:

First thing I would do is replace those 20-year old headlights with new ones. 

Bulbs do dim with age. Replace the bulbs, clean the lenses, and check the headlight aim. Same for the fog lights.

[1 Lucky Texan]

in the past Hella 500s were a popular upgrade in the fog light position. kartboy and maybe others even made a bracket to ease the swap but, I don't think it was too tricky to rig on your own.

[carfreak85]

My EA81T wagon has 500s.  I like them and they come in a few flavors of beam shape, IIRC.

[FerGloyale]

On 3/2/2019 at 6:51 PM, crazyman03 said:

For lens cleaning I've used Meguiar's Headlight restore. (amazon - https://amzn.to/2Eq46vz) i actually *just* ordered that one to do my wifes' forester.
costs' about 30 bucks at Checkers/orilley's but TOTALLY worth it. I've even gone as far as using it on taillight lens' and they look brand stinking new. (pics below)

As far as light upgrades, you'll get flak one way or the other about doing LED/HID swaps. I do run HID's myself but they are *technically* intended for Projection lenses. Keep in mind you'll find 30w or 50w swap ins. 30's are BRIGHT enough if you swap them for hallogen - you dont need to spring for the 50+watts

pics of the lens' cleaned up. 

.. 

 

-Justin

 

This kit is better product I think.   https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Auto-Advanced-Headlight-Restoration-System/13023890?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009544146&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838676752&wl4=pla-78652144592&wl5=9033024&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=13023890&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoYeW9Nzw4AIVpx-tBh1dxAX9EAQYAyABEgLZI_D_BwE

Better sanding disc, more stages of grit I think (500, 800, 1500, polish pad)

And doesn't require the "coating" which I have seen react weirdly and cause a "crackled" look on the surface after just a short time.

Well polished plastic doesn't need to be "sealed" 

They just put that crap in the kit to give a finished ""wet" look and hide scratches from inadequate polishing.

I used to facet glass and stones, so I know a bit about abrasives and polishing.

[heartless]

i have used both the polishing "kits" and done hand polishing with wet/dry papers down to about 2000 grit..

best finish I ever got was using the wet/dry papers (wet, of course) and finishing with Meguire's Plast-X plastic polish.

it is time consuming to get it right by hand, but well worth the time & effort involved.

[nipper]

I never had luck with it but thats me.

[jeryst]

On 3/6/2019 at 7:31 PM, nipper said:

Bulbs do dim with age. Replace the bulbs, clean the lenses, and check the headlight aim. Same for the fog lights.

I'm running Silver Star bulbs right now. One or the other burns out after a year or so, so I replace the pair. Headlight adjustment should be better, but the adjusters are so rusted they wont move and I havent been able to find replacement adjuster screws. The lenses are somewhat cloudy, so a friend of mine that has a body shop polished them,  with polishing compound and a buffer. They were nice and clear for a couple months, but then got cloudy again.

[jonathan909]

19 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

And doesn't require the "coating" which I have seen react weirdly and cause a "crackled" look on the surface after just a short time.

Well polished plastic doesn't need to be "sealed" 

They just put that crap in the kit to give a finished ""wet" look and hide scratches from inadequate polishing.

I used to facet glass and stones, so I know a bit about abrasives and polishing.

Fair enough, but glass and stones aren't affected by UV the way plastics are.

When I first used the Mothers kit, the results were good but I was disappointed in how short-lived the improvement was - seems like it wasn't more than a few months before the sunlight had fogged them again.  So for my second go I wanted a kit with a "UV protectant", hence my choice of Meguiar's.  That was in the fall; we'll see how they hold up.

So although I can't (yet) actually produce proof of the long-term efficacy of the anti-UV coating, I wouldn't be dismissive of it as a "sealer" or a trivial cosmetic addition.

[czny]

Silver polishing creams & pastes work well on plastics also, without buying the kits.

https://www.amazon.com/Wrights-Silver-Cleaner-Polish-Aluminum/dp/B000KKIKOS

I've used Wrights cream polish after successively finer grits of sandpaper to resurface plexiglass after cutting to shape.