Zip Tie Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 I picked it up on Saturday (drove 6 1/2 hrs). I had been told the fuel pump was out so I started diagnosing from there. Battery dead. A little starting fluid and a battery jump (could hear the fuel pump running) and drove it home (6 1/2 hrs) under its own power. It needs a tune up, brakes bled, interior cleaned and new door weather stripping. I'm in the process of completing the first three. Any ideas where to get weather stripping? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 So no fuel pump issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 (edited) Nope (not yet at least). It's running just fine. I checked under the power steering pump and it's a 1.8. The oil pressure isn't working though. I replaced the sender unit and the gauge goes all the way to 85 with the ignition on but drops below 0 and stays there when the engine is running. Oil level is full on dip stick. What could be causing this? Edited February 28, 2019 by Zip Tie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 45 minutes ago, Zip Tie said: Nope (not yet at least). It's running just fine. I checked under the power steering pump and it's a 1.8. The oil pressure isn't working though. I replaced the sender unit and the gauge goes all the way to 85 with the ignition on but drops below 0 and stays there when the engine is running. Oil level is full on dip stick. What could be causing this? Yes that is normal. It means you do in fact have oil pressure. It's because EJ engines don't use a sender, they just have a oil light switch. Closed at zero pressure and open (light off) with engine running with oil pressure present. What you are seeing is basically an oil light "on" during key on/eng off. Spiked gauge. Then when you start car, oil pressure starts and turns "off" the light......or in this case the gauge.......goes to zero. Some have adapted senders into their swaps but it involves some sort of extension/relocation of the sender since it doesn't fit under the ALT. I've just gotten used to the setup with my swaps where if the oil gauge is anywhere OTHER than zero while driving you've got an issue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 You just need a small extension hose to relocate the oil pressure sender unit. Any decent brake shop will easily make one up for you. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I think there's also a 'pancake adapter' that goes under the oil filter. It creates for a secondary oil pressure port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 The loyale also has an "oil" light in the panel to the left of the steering column. When I do swaps on later Loyales or DL's with no gauge, I route the wire to the light. Could be done on this car too.......I just got used to seeing the "zero" reading as a normal. 6 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: I think there's also a 'pancake adapter' that goes under the oil filter. It creates for a secondary oil pressure port. Those things suck. Leaks waiting to happen. Shifts when you go to spin off the old filter. Blah....Better to use a extension 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 On 2/20/2019 at 2:33 PM, FerGloyale said: The relay block behind the battery is attached to the tower with a 6mm bolt. (through one of the relays that has a tab) Alternator connections are insulated, the main lug is missing it's rubber cover, but it's not touching anything. The relay block in the spare tire well was attached better int he past......Someone has cut/moved the Zipties that held it. It's pulled the Vac lines for the 4wd solenoids. Someone must have messed with that. Maybe tried to put the spare tire in there? The headlight bundle is very high quality, abrasion resistant, High temp rated, oil impervious wire. It's bundled to itself so it's fairly stiff. It isn't going to rub through. It isn't going to melt. It's the wiring we used to run our Vegtable oil/Diesel conversions at the old diesel shop. We never ran it in loom because it hinders troubleshooting later. Never had a rub through except once at sharp edge on a Cummins. That saw alot of vibration.......this GL isn't goin to vibrate like that. The fact that it's all there and looks to be intact after 5 years points to it being acceptable for more than a "test drive" But I get it. Some folks need their laundry to be folded and put in drawers. Me? I might do that sometimes but if I leave it in the basket it's easier to see what I've got to wear! What do the gray and purple wires coming out of the relay block in the spare tire well go to? I reconnected the gray one. I can't figure out where the purple one is supposed to go. There is a purple wire on the passenger side against the firewall that goes nowhere....Also, you said it looks like the vac lines for the 4wd are disconnected. Where are those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Sounds like fan wiring. I think I may have run a wire to add a switch for fan "on" inside the cab. Might be the purple to nowhere? The gray?.....Does it connect to the yellow wire at the A/C relay block? (passenger strut tower area) That would to trigger on the Factory elec fan (pass side fan) It's been a long time. Too bad the diagram I made got lost. Pics would help me figure some stuff out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 30 minutes ago, FerGloyale said: Sounds like fan wiring. I think I may have run a wire to add a switch for fan "on" inside the cab. Might be the purple to nowhere? The gray?.....Does it connect to the yellow wire at the A/C relay block? (passenger strut tower area) That would to trigger on the Factory elec fan (pass side fan) It's been a long time. Too bad the diagram I made got lost. Pics would help me figure some stuff out. This might help. Where are the 4wd vacuum lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 So I traced the wires from the electric fans and they change color a couple times but end up being the yellow and green wires going into the floating relay block. I replaced the 20amp fuse and the drivers side fan started running without the key being in on. The purple wires do go to a relay with yellow wires. Maybe ac fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 23 hours ago, FerGloyale said: Sounds like fan wiring. I think I may have run a wire to add a switch for fan "on" inside the cab. Might be the purple to nowhere? The gray?.....Does it connect to the yellow wire at the A/C relay block? (passenger strut tower area) That would to trigger on the Factory elec fan (pass side fan) It's been a long time. Too bad the diagram I made got lost. Pics would help me figure some stuff out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 This splice is the OE A/C fan relay signal now controls the new relay in the "floating" block As for fan runing with key off., I am guessing someone grounded the ECU's signal wire. You need to confirm that the "trigger" wire (which is the ground side) for the relays is A) not grounded out. B ) actually connected to the signal wire from the ECU. ECU is from 93 Impreza......I will see if I can find pinouts and wire colors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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