StallonePanerai Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Hey guys...I would like to install a aftermarket oil pressure gauge so I can always be certain of the correct pressure and have piece of mind. Does anyone recommend a gauge that will be a direct fit? I have been searching forums but are old without pics, I would like to see how to connect the new gauge to the oil pump Can someone provide a pic and the procedure. Also living in the northeast with cold winters is it normal when I start the car the RPM’s will get higher and higher as it warms up? I need to tap my foot on the pedal after a few mins to lower the RPM’s. Is this normal for the oil to flow at the correct rate? Should the car warm up with low RPM or higher RPM? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 If your engine has a carb, it will definitely do that. SPFI also has high idle when cold, but the ECU controls it. High idle is normal to get the engine warm enough to stay running at lower RPM regular idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I have installed a SAAS brand electronic gauge but think it is only an Australian market brand. I bought a brass T piece to allow both gauge and oil light pressure switch but have since deleted the oil light sender in an attempt to get better or rather a more accurate gauge reading. Someone in here suggested you don't run the two together (possibly in upper case) without explaining why. I think it may be thought should not have the diaphragm of oil light switch working against gauge sender unit. I found no real improvement in gauge readings at idle at operating temperature - still reads close to zero! A word of experience is the tapered threads #### My oil pressure gauge sender has a male taper thread looks like the 1/8" BSPT. It is the coarser 27 tpi. The oil pressure switches of our Japanese engines are finer 28 tpi Some people succeed in forcing one of these male threads into the female thread to force a rethread i use a 28 tpi tapered T adaptor, select which female thread is to get the gauge sender's coarser thread, hit it with 8.0 mm drill bit then retap it to coarser 27 tpi taper tap The low or zero readings on gauge never set the oil pressure light off which suggests either switch sender faulty or gauge not accurate at the lower end of scale. I removed light sender unit from The T piece and now use another port for oil light switch My oil gauge is a 50 mm unit and replaces the clock in my Brumby dash cluster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.