Nowah9 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 My 92 Loyale with a 2" lift has the front passenger CV axle rubbing on the frame and the boots keep tearing. What should I check out first? Already gone through 3 Axles in 3 months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 1 hour ago, Dee2 said: Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ? Hm I'm not sure honestly. On flat ground it does seem like the Passenger front side is angled more like someone is sitting in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Dee2 said: Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ? It's the 2" ADF lift. I have not lowered the crossmembers. My struts are also starting to get worn if that would affect it. Edited March 24, 2019 by Nowah9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 maybe some photos would help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 5 hours ago, Dee2 said: maybe some photos would help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 6 hours ago, Dee2 said: maybe some photos would help That bare metal part on the axle is the part thats rubbing. It was installed 2 days ago and the boots already torn....:/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Wtf is that drive shaft?? I’ve never seen one with the inner cup being so long. Also a two inch strut lift only on the MY/L series is known to chew out CVs in no time. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 It's one of those new-fangled aftermarket axles. OP, most of us stay as far away from aftermarket axles as possible. Your axle is hitting the frame because it's not OEM and the axle shaft is oversized. Check your engine and transmission mounts for tears, check your suspension and subframes for accident damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, el_freddo said: Wtf is that drive shaft?? I’ve never seen one with the inner cup being so long. Also a two inch strut lift only on the MY/L series is known to chew out CVs in no time. Cheers Bennie It was supposed to be a "heavy duty Axle". I know I was gonna go through axles quicker but it's only lasting 2 days. And It didn't happen when I first installed the lift so something's gotta be wrong Edited March 25, 2019 by Nowah9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 43 minutes ago, carfreak85 said: It's one of those new-fangled aftermarket axles. OP, most of us stay as far away from aftermarket axles as possible. Your axle is hitting the frame because it's not OEM and the axle shaft is oversized. Check your engine and transmission mounts for tears, check your suspension and subframes for accident damage. I would go OEM if I could fine one. It only started happening after getting stuck and pulled out of a mud pit so I think something got damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop. Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel. Makes for a tippy front end wheeling. Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 1 hour ago, FerGloyale said: Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop. Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel. Makes for a tippy front end wheeling. Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems. Agreed. Since dropping front crossmember another 1" on my 4" SJR lift I've had zero front axle problems with torn boots or hitting axles. Moving OEM axle small end boot clamps to position closer to inner DOJ helps too. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 When did folks start mixing and matching lift heights between the crossmember and strut tops? Back in my day () if your strut mounts were a 4-inch lift, you dropped your crossmember 4 inches. Three inch strut spacers? Three inch crossmember blocks... Seems like a pretty simple concept to me, but all the Forester guys keep asking why they're tearing axle boots. Gee, I wonder why... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, FerGloyale said: Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop. Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel. Makes for a tippy front end wheeling. Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems. I bought the stuff to do this with the lift kit I'm just not sure if I'm mechanically inclined enough to do it. Edited March 25, 2019 by Nowah9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section. It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot. The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed clearance . Not sure how to compensate for both problems together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nowah9 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 51 minutes ago, Dee2 said: That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section. It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot. The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed clearance . Not sure how to compensate for both problems together. I got in touch with ADF and they said the diameter of the axle is too large so I guess I'll be swapping it out for a 4th time. Practice makes perfect I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 11 hours ago, carfreak85 said: When did folks start mixing and matching lift heights between the crossmember and strut tops? Back in my day () if your strut mounts were a 4-inch lift, you dropped your crossmember 4 inches. Three inch strut spacers? Three inch crossmember blocks... When the forester people worked out that they could get away with using only the two in strut lift without issue. 11 hours ago, carfreak85 said: Seems like a pretty simple concept to me, but all the Forester guys keep asking why they're tearing axle boots. Gee, I wonder why... Probably because they’re going for a two inch strut top lift with larger struts (if that’s possible) - or they’re going for a strut lift that’s greater than two inches without any subframe drop. But I’m only guessing as I don’t have a Foz and my mates with two inch strut lift don’t have any issues. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbuoy Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 You absolutely need a subframe drop if you want to stop ripping boots. my loyale with a 2” adf lift would blow axles all the time until i dropped the subframe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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