middleclassic Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hello and please forgive me if this posting should have gone elsewhere and please do move this post to wherever it needs to be. I am the owner of a 2009 Outback 2.5i automatic. I live in Pico Rivera in Los Angeles and am looking for a reputable Subaru repairman / place to diagnose my Outback to find out exactly what is wrong with the engine and then proceed with the repair of the vehicle. Any responses will be greatly appreciated as I have not the slightest clue who to go to for what ails my vehicle. But let me first point out that at the time the damage occurred to this vehicle in 2016 I looked around for a Subaru mechanic and it seemed the closest good ones were located in Costa Mesa, CA. A bit of a haul from me, but if that's where I got to go to have quality honest work done at a good price, then that is where I will go. I am just hoping to find someone much closer as the car currently is not driveable. Also, I am very well aware of the consequences of letting a car sit for a long amount of time (deterioration of rubber parts to start with) and for the most part am very handy when it comes to turning a wrench. I have worked on all the cars I have owned throughout the years, so I do know a thing or three about working on cars. But I cannot work on cars in my current physical state. Fortunately I am currently going through rehab for a broken hip / back injury, but unfortunately in the next month or so should have surgery to repair 3 deteriorated discs in my neck. Yes, I do hope to walk, and talk, and move freely again, but working on cars ... nope. Anyway wish me luck ... please! Saying this, let me get to the meat of my other dilemma. My Outback has currently been sitting for over 3 years even though the engine will turn over and run. But upon starting a loud knock will be noticed by anyone within earshot. The knock is the result of the engine unfortunately being run for too long of time with I'm guessing about 2 quarts of oil in the engine. I say this because when a quart of oil was added the oil still did not even register on the dipstick.** And filling the engine to its recommended level had no result on quieting the knock. So what I am told is that this has more than likely damaged a rod or rods, burnt a bearing(s), and heck, just nothing good to cut to the chase. So what I am in need of is someone familiar with the internals of the 2.5i and how to go about rebuilding / repair of such an engine. So, all of that said, can anybody out there recommend a mechanic or even yourself as long as we can come to an agreement on a price? Ah yes, that being said, any ideas on a ballpark figure on how much I should be looking at for such a repair with the limited info I have given? Ask away if you need any more info about … anything. I plan to glue myself to this forum for the next month or so until I get the answer I feel comfortable with. BTW, I should also point out that I do plan to have the Outback towed on Subaru’s dime to Timmon’s in Long Beach on April 11th to have a recall device (Passenger side airbag) replaced. The original idea being to have them crack the engine open for possible diagnostic and repair. Diagnostic costing $125 (no problem) and guesstimate for engine repair by Timmons to be in the $5000-$11,000 range. Uhhhhh … say what?!? 5Gs to 11Gs? No F’n way! I know, dealership pricing is ridiculous at times. Anyway, I know what I was told over 3 years ago does not apply to a dealership, but anyway, I was told over 3 years ago a new engine installed I should be able to have done for around $4000. So is 4Gs way too low or about right? Please let me know because I am honestly a babe in the woods at this moment and really have no idea exactly how much any of this should cost. I just know up to $11,000 sounds like way too much. Or is it? And as far as the airbag goes, I can still have Timmons do that for free and even have the Outback towed back home for free. But I’m more than likely going to have them skip the diagnostic for $125 if the diagnostic can be done by a recommended mechanic. To wrap this up, sorry for writing so much but I do hope what I have written goes to good use and I get the answer I am after. And I do hope to hear back from you all very soon. Thank You. **I know curiosity gets the best of anyone at moments like this (How the heck did the oil get so low?!?) and if you do feel you need to know how this all came about, just ask and I will tell about anything you may have a question about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 From your description of the problem I won't throw money at the original engine. Subaru offers a factory rebuilt short block or source a low-mileage used engine. Replacing the engine itself is not rocket science and the kid down the street can probably do it for a few hundreds. My ex is from Pico Rivera. Good chance you probably dated her as I learn over time the girl really got around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
middleclassic Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 Really? A new engine is the better way to go? Or factory rebuilt? Any idea how much something like a factory rebuilt should cost? Because if that IS the way to go, then maybe I could hire my next door neighbor to do it, or help me swap engines. He is a mechanic and a nice guy. So if it isn’t rocket science (I used to work at JPL btw) this may be a DIY project after all. Also, that’s funny (to me) about the ex. No worries as I never hit it off with any girls I grew up with now that I think of it. Once I got a job at Ralph’s one city over in Downey and moved there too, my dating life changed dramatically! Damn, and you are in or from KY and your ex is from Pico? Small world fer sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 A Subaru remanufactured short block is about $2k. Plus additional gaskets, timing belt service and any cylinder head work needed (resurface at least). It is definitely a DIY project if you have someone that can help. Another option is to purchase a JDM engine (used engine removed from a car in Japan). These generally have less than 60k miles on them and are an easier job (remove and replace) than doing a short block replacement. A JDM engine should be less than $2k delivered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 A complete new engine will be very expensive. I think a rebuilt chart block goes for around $2500. Check out car-parts.com for a used engine. If this was my problem, used engine all the way. Rebuilding your engine will be very expensive. Crankshaft/ rods/bearings/labor...wow. Currently live in KY but originally from Ohio. Hooked up with the ex while attending school in VA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 You could be in luck and the issue turn out to be a dead timing belt tensioner. The tensioner makes a knocking noise very similar to that of a dead bottom end bearing. Using a stethoscope you can isolate the noise to the front left of the engine - near where the tensioner lives. If this is the case it’s happy days. Confirm by removing the left cam cover piece to visually inspect the tensioner - if it bounces while idling it’s dead. If it has oil residue on top of it, it’s dead. If you can’t see either of these, carefully getting the stethoscope onto the tensioner with the engine idling will give you a definite answer If the noise remains in the centre of the block area it’ll be a big end issue. @GeneralDisorder will be able to provide some different ways to deal with a dead bottom end All the best with it. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
middleclassic Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 3/29/2019 at 7:34 PM, Mike104 said: A Subaru remanufactured short block is about $2k. Plus additional gaskets, timing belt service and any cylinder head work needed (resurface at least). It is definitely a DIY project if you have someone that can help. Another option is to purchase a JDM engine (used engine removed from a car in Japan). These generally have less than 60k miles on them and are an easier job (remove and replace) than doing a short block replacement. A JDM engine should be less than $2k delivered. I do like the sound of the JDM engine since it sounds like a simple swap of engines. Something I have never done before, but does sound simple enough that I could do it with some help. Only problem for me with a JDM is since I am new to them is where to get one reliably. I figured JDM was something Subaru specific only to discover JDM means Japanese Domestic Market and means ANY Japanese manufacturers motor. Ugh! And the first website I went to jdmwestcoast.com listed no 2.5i's for sale. That was rather disheartening when I figured this was a sort of slam dunk answer. Nonetheless I shall keep trying unless someone answers back with a definitive answer. But stumbling around that website right now I do see they have a 2003-2009 3.0L engine for sale. And it ios located in Santa Fe Springs which is one city over from me.! Is it possible to simply swap out a 2.5i for a 3.0L? Because if there were one complaint I have about my car is the power. I'm used to driving cars that when I hit the gas, it answers back immediately and takes off! I'm not sure if that's what I would get with a 3.0L, but seeing as it is the largest engine made for the car, I'm guessing if would have a lot more get up and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 Swapping in a 3.0L would be a major pain in comparison to doing the JDM EJ25 swap. https://www.ebay.com/p/Short-Engine-Subaru-EJ25-for-Impreza-WRX-Legacy-Forester-2-5-Ltr-2001-07/655000688?iid=202590008179&chn=ps You may have to get one shipped to you. The best option is the Subaru short Block as you know what you are getting, but it does take some work to do, more than the JDM swap and would ideally need someone experienced to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
middleclassic Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 OK, I’m a bit confused by your response. You say the short block rebuild is easier than a JDM swap? 2 previous posters said pretty much the opposite. Can you elaborate? I found a place one city over from me that has loads of JDMs for sale though not my exact motor. But just seeing as they have loads of motors I do not doubt they could come up with what I need. I’m going call them and get their take on my situation but would like to hear back from you if you think a rebuild is easier than a swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 I said the short block is a better option as you know what you are getting. Doing the JDM swap is definitely easier to do but what you get can vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 6 hours ago, Mike104 said: I said the short block is a better option as you know what you are getting. Doing the JDM swap is definitely easier to do but what you get can vary. Further to this: - the short block option will require your engine’s heads fitted along with all the other gear from your engine, plus a timing belt kit. - the JDM long block will require your engine’s intake (and maybe sump etc), and a timing belt kit is advisable unless the long block is sold with this work already done - but I doubt that. Both options have their pros and cons. You need to weigh up what’s best for you as your situation. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now