ea82 oil pump leak - suggestions for removal and replacement of seals

[paladin]

Hello all,

Having a serious leak from oil pump on my Loyale. No suggestions for removal in my Haynes and want to be sure there are no issues removing the oil pump on the ea82 like there is on my ea71. Any suggestions welcomed. I see that a kit comes with two gaskets and a seal from Beck/Arnley.

Thanks in advance

[DaveT]

There are o-rings [including the famous Micky mouse o-ring] and a a shaft seal.   It's been a while - I don't recall any gaskets involved with the oil pump.

You must be careful when removing the pump.  No big force or you risk breaking something.

I have heard of EA82 FSMs online, but I don't have a link.  Keep an eye out for one on ebay, it's far better than any of the Haynes type manuals.  While there are some differences, for the main EA82 mechanical stuff, 86-93 are pretty similar.  Some of the fuel delivery method / wiring and ECU stuff changes over that span.  What year is the car you are working on?

 

[paladin]

92

 

[paladin]

Agreeing with "caution" since I am not seeing replacement oil pumps from my usual stomping grounds.

[DaveT]

At least 90 through 93 should be useful for a FSM.

Going by numerous threads on this forum, the oil pump is NLA - no OEM, no aftermarket.

Only chance is NOS or finding a used engine that hasn't been abused.

I've been running and maintaining EA82 wagons since 1988, never needed a new oil pump, just reseal them.  With reasonable maintenance, and not abused the pump should be ok.

 

[paladin]

Thanks a ton, have a couple of donor engines ... gonna pull those off!

 

[idosubaru]

Trash the Haynes and get an FSM. The 1988 XT was scanned and available for a long time free on Subaruxt.com but may not be there any more.  The 4 cylinder 1988 XT is an EA82 and the same timing belt and oil pump components as the locale. 

In the odd event the 10mm housing bolts are tight work them back and forth a few degrees, loosen a tiny bit/tighten/loosen and allow substantial time between working them to cool down so they don’t overheat and shear.  oil pumps never really do this but it happens enough in a few other places on that engine it’s worth mentioning, like I’ve seen it on the water pumps and Tstat housings and it’s common on intake manifold bolts on that engine.

Oil pumps typically come off really easy. Retain orientation of the rotor when you pull it. It can slide off the shaft and stay in the block. 

Clean the pump and around it - this can take forever if it’s been leaking it’ll have caked oil everywhere. 

I use a 32mm “12 point” socket to hold the shaft on the engine side and remove the shaft nut. Fits perfect. 

Next step is easiest place to incur damage. Be careful getting the pulley off the pump.  There’s a metal lip on the pulley, like a guide for the timing belt.  This often gets bent trying to pry off old stuck pulleys.  Yours has a good chance of being real tight if it’s leaking because it’s been on there forever. Rather than pry the pulley hard try to adequately support the pump housing and tap the shaft through the pump and pulley. 

FSM calls for dabs of anaerobic sealant where the two block halves join together at 12 noon and 6pm, look carefully on the Center line and you’ll see it.  I usually do this but have skipped it without issue too.  

Replace the shaft seal, prep all your surface and reinstall with new oring and Mickey Mouse gasket.  

The Mickey Mouse ‘gasket’ is confusing because its not typical gasket ‘material’ but oring material. but it’s also not a “ring” or an “o” in terms of physical shape. So the terminology is easily confused.

[idosubaru]

If it’s just leaking then a reseal will fix it. No need to replace. Though Having  a used one on hand is not bad just in case. 

[el_freddo]

@idosubaru - what are you using the 32mm twelve point socket for??

A 22mm is needed for the crank pulley, but I’ve never used a 32mm other than on EJ castellated nuts on their driveshafts. 

Curious... 

Bennie

[Dee2]

Be careful when  torquing the bolts on re-installation.  Others have reported that the torque values in the Haynes manual are incorrect. Check another source or two for your yr/model.

 

I believe the rotor has a specific front/back orientation.  Make note of any markings for re-installation.

[idosubaru]

On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 8:44 AM, el_freddo said:

@idosubaru - what are you using the 32mm twelve point socket for??

A 22mm is needed for the crank pulley, but I’ve never used a 32mm other than on EJ castellated nuts on their driveshafts. 

Curious... 

Bennie

For the oil pump shaft nut.  You have to hold the shaft of the oil pump to remove the nut on the shaft.  A 32mm socket fits perfectly with zero play over the 4 lobes on the end of the engine side oil pump shaft. 

[idosubaru]

16 hours ago, Dee2 said:

Be careful when  torquing the bolts on re-installation.  Others have reported that the torque values in the Haynes manual are incorrect. Check another source or two for your yr/model.

 

I believe the rotor has a specific front/back orientation.  Make note of any markings for re-installation.

yes it's supposed to go back in the same way it came, it should have a marking on it - usually it's the letter "B" on XT6's.  take note if it's facing in or out upon removal or just mark the rotor with a grease pen.   

having the FSM will help here, as that is mentioned. 

[paladin]

Thanks all for the advice! All went well and leak is fixed. 

[Gramr]

I'd leave pump on engine pull timing belts to get at it remove pully on oil pump get a small screw and screw it into seal an use that to pull old shaft seal find a deep socket slightly smaller than seal to install new seal. Grease the garter spring in seal to hold it in place don't forget to lube seal an l like a smear of rtv gasket as insurance to hold it in place in pump. If the shaft is grooved just don't put new seal in same spot a little further in l like but be carefull not to far. Saves pulling the whole thing apart.

[Steptoe]

 

good to hear Paladin. Did you use idosubaru's trick with the 32mm 12 point socket on the lobe rotor at the rear once pump was removed?

I usually do the reseal at same time as belt renewal so just use timing belts in place to undo the 12mm nut of the shaft and other times shoved something in on the sprocket teeth to lock it against something of the pump body but think I have once bent the pulley lip. I find the B faces the Block

 

I would feel a little hesitant with the big socket on the rotor lobes for fear of damage to the critical surfaces but I guess ido has been lucky

 

The FSM does not help in this particular task from memory - like many manuals that say undo or remove and little man in head starts swearing

Edited April 19, 2019 by Steptoe

[DaveT]

An impact wrench will get the nut off, just holding the rotor by hand.  I've also used a vise to hold it - with wood or an old timing belt between the jaws and the rotor.

[idosubaru]

3 hours ago, Steptoe said:

 

good to hear Paladin. Did you use idosubaru's trick with the 32mm 12 point socket on the lobe rotor at the rear once pump was removed?

I usually do the reseal at same time as belt renewal so just use timing belts in place to undo the 12mm nut of the shaft and other times shoved something in on the sprocket teeth to lock it against something of the pump body but think I have once bent the pulley lip. I find the B faces the Block

 

I would feel a little hesitant with the big socket on the rotor lobes for fear of damage to the critical surfaces but I guess ido has been lucky

 

The FSM does not help in this particular task from memory - like many manuals that say undo or remove and little man in head starts swearing

There’s nothing lucky about it, the leverage (the engagement points are a larger diameter from center than the nut diameter) and engagement characteristics aren’t enough to damage anything. I get it, I’m an engineer, wondered that too, and was careful to pay attention to engagement, etc and I’ve done it a zillion times. Nothing to it.

But yeah there are plenty of other ways to do it.  

The sprocket is easily damaged, I’ve seen damaged sprockets: marring of the teeth and bent guides on the side.  Take care against those issues and have at it. 

[paladin]

I did not have the 12 point socket or need to really purchase one so used a leather wrap and vise grip to hold the rotor in place gently. Nut came off, no problem, all went back together well, no noise, good pressure, and no more leaks! I did get the whole reseal, o-ring kit and replaced everything. Spaced the anaerobic sealant at 12 and 6 that idosubaru mentioned so had to remove, seal and replace. Thanks, again for the help, multitude of council is awesome here!