Looking at at 95 Legacy

[Ravenwoods]

I just looked at a 1995 Legacy L, AT,  187,000 miles. She was asking $2500, but I offered $500 and she has come down to $800.

Problems:

1. Struts need immediate replacement.

2. Timing belt history unknown. She’s had it four years and an estimated 30,000 miles. We can assume it needs replacement with a full timing belt kit.

4. Tires in need of immediate replacement.

5. CV axles, one inner boot torn and one outer boot torn. So both should be replaced, but they aren’t clicking yet.

6. Brakes mushy and need pumping. Might just need bleeding.

7. Climate control switches non-functional.

8. Steering pulls slightly to the right. Might be the tires.

9. Steering shakes at 55. Maybe just an unbalanced tire?

The body looks pretty good with only a bit of rust.

In contrast we bought a 95 Legacy last month with 175,000 miles for $900 and a two sets of great tires on rims for summer and winter. We put about $500 worth of parts into it so far and is running great. Maybe it was a very good deal at $900? Maybe $800 is an ok price for this Legacy? What do you think?

[lmdew]

Go back with a list of parts costs.  Show her what it will take to make it a good subaru again.  $800 might be OK for AK.  $500 would be better.

List of parts and $500 in cash and you might drive it away.

[heartless]

i agree with Larry...

the 95 is a great year, but going in with a laundry list of what it needs and the costs associated with those needs may work in your favor.

and being as it needs struts anyway, you might want to consider doing a strut lift on it. I loved it on mine.

[biggman100]

11 hours ago, Ravenwoods said:

I just looked at a 1995 Legacy L, AT,  187,000 miles. She was asking $2500, but I offered $500 and she has come down to $800.

Problems:

1. Struts need immediate replacement.

2. Timing belt history unknown. She’s had it four years and an estimated 30,000 miles. We can assume it needs replacement with a full timing belt kit.

4. Tires in need of immediate replacement.

5. CV axles, one inner boot torn and one outer boot torn. So both should be replaced, but they aren’t clicking yet.

6. Brakes mushy and need pumping. Might just need bleeding.

7. Climate control switches non-functional.

8. Steering pulls slightly to the right. Might be the tires.

9. Steering shakes at 55. Maybe just an unbalanced tire?

The body looks pretty good with only a bit of rust.

In contrast we bought a 95 Legacy last month with 175,000 miles for $900 and a two sets of great tires on rims for summer and winter. We put about $500 worth of parts into it so far and is running great. Maybe it was a very good deal at $900? Maybe $800 is an ok price for this Legacy? What do you think?

$800 for a running, but needs work, Subaru of any year, in my opinion, is a steal, but, im also biased, because, anywhere within 200 miles of where i live, i cant find Subaru's with bad engines for less than $800-$1000. The first things i would look at are, in order, replacing the strut, fix the brakes, then alignment, then tires, then climate control. The reason i would choose that order is, the shaking is probably linked to the tires, but, if it pulls to the right, that is more likely alignment, which will ruin the new tires if not done, and, the mushy braking could cause an accident even with good tires. Cv axles, i would actually hold off on, at least for a few days, until you have actually driven it a bit, as they may only need new boots. The climate control, that could be a fuse or electrical problem though, or, it could just be a bad control unit.

[Ravenwoods]

On 4/14/2019 at 4:31 AM, lmdew said:

Go back with a list of parts costs.  Show her what it will take to make it a good subaru again.  $800 might be OK for AK.  $500 would be better.

List of parts and $500 in cash and you might drive it away.

I weakened and bought the car for $800 as she did not want to budge and I was worried someone else would buy it. I think her high asking price scared everyone away so it worked to my advantage as it seems nobody else showed any interest as far as I know.

I was wide awake before 4 this morning so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid and it seems I got air out of the system. One of the banjo bolts may be leaking but I will investigate that when I put on new struts.

 I’m not planning on driving it for about four weeks so I’m not in any hurry.

The climate control is last on the schedule of repairs as I have about five months until colder weather arrives.

[heartless]

I will have to do a bit of digging, but i "may" have a climate control unit hiding in the garage.. not sure if it is for a 95 or the earlier 90 model I had..

 

[Ravenwoods]

13 minutes ago, heartless said:

I will have to do a bit of digging, but i "may" have a climate control unit hiding in the garage.. not sure if it is for a 95 or the earlier 90 model I had..

 

That would be great. 

[Ravenwoods]

On 4/14/2019 at 7:48 AM, biggman100 said:

$800 for a running, but needs work, Subaru of any year, in my opinion, is a steal, but, im also biased, because, anywhere within 200 miles of where i live, i cant find Subaru's with bad engines for less than $800-$1000. The first things i would look at are, in order, replacing the strut, fix the brakes, then alignment, then tires, then climate control. The reason i would choose that order is, the shaking is probably linked to the tires, but, if it pulls to the right, that is more likely alignment, which will ruin the new tires if not done, and, the mushy braking could cause an accident even with good tires. Cv axles, i would actually hold off on, at least for a few days, until you have actually driven it a bit, as they may only need new boots. The climate control, that could be a fuse or electrical problem though, or, it could just be a bad control unit.

 

The left strut mount has a broken bearing and the rollers are falling out. I imagine that could cause the slight pull to the right. One can get replacement bearings to tap in I suspect?

[1 Lucky Texan]

on a 95 - the rubber could crack 'at any moment'

just get new mounts for both sides - the other side's bearing is likely dry and crunchy too. many folks get KYB mounts.

don't over torque those 3 little nuts, theire spec is very low - 4-5 ftlbs or something (check with a better source than my memory!)

Be sure the top spacer (conical washer) has its narrow side up. It is supposed to only touch the inner race. Sometimes when folks assemble the strut assemblies it gets flipped. That will cause dragging. squeaking  and maybe pulling too.

 

Edited April 15, 2019 by 1 Lucky Texan

[heartless]

i can highly recommend the KYB mounts - used them myself on the 95 i had, on forester struts/springs.

 

[Ravenwoods]

21 hours ago, heartless said:

i can highly recommend the KYB mounts - used them myself on the 95 i had, on forester struts/springs.

 

I’m going to the junkyard to see if there are any struts and mounts still in decent shape for a very reasonable cost. Little bit short on money the moment and it’s not a big job changing them out in a year if necessary. Does the Forester use the same struts as the Legacy?

Edited April 16, 2019 by Ravenwoods

[el_freddo]

Forester struts are taller. Rear top hat is most likely different, but I’m not 100% sure on this, someone will tell you for sure  

Cheers 

Bennie

[heartless]

i used Legacy tophats (ended up buying new KYBs, but started with the stock ones), but put 98 forester struts & springs on my 95 L

even sitting on the stock 14" tires, it gave nearly 2" of added height...

 

[lmdew]

Front top hats are the same.  The rears will most likely need to be swapped over.  You need a thick washer under the nut on top of the strut to take up the extra space!

[lmdew]

The Outback rear trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body is an 1" longer to keep the rear wheel centered.  Careful with the bolts they are easy to cross thread.  If the bolts are rusty, I've had them break the welded nuts loose inside the body.