Jadu108 Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 95 Legacy L 2.2l Auto Few things been popping up that I just cant quite get a good bead on. So im throwing code p0440, which initially popped up because i had broken the weld on exhaust near the cat, and ran it for awhile. Eventually got it welded back up and it i regained some lost power, then the code popped up again, then after a thousand or so miles my power loss comes back. Since then ive noticed a slight drop in mpg, as well as what sounds like lifter or valve tick. Also have been having issues with the a popping noise when braking. Its a very feint pop when i initially brake. Ive gotten under there and checked to make sure the caliper isnt loose and that everything is on right. The pads appear to be seated properly... Ive replaced the tie rods recently. Ball joint looks and feels fine as much as i can tell. Axles look fine. Perhaps Control arm bushings? Any help on any of these is super helpful. I got a couple weeks to get this stuff figured out. Maybe less to narrow down the issues. Thanks a ton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 (edited) I think the most common source of P0440 on older soobs is rusted-thru holes in the tank filler neck. have to look behind the plastic usually. But, if the car has always been in Abq, rust seems less likely than something like a cracked evap hose or cracked carbon canister, etc. bad knock sensor will kill power, might lead to knock noise, and often won't throw a code. This is one sensor where a cheap ebay unit has worked well for folks. on the braking....maybe look for loose sway bar endlinks????? Edited June 17, 2019 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadu108 Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 The car is from Salt Lake City. And as far as i know its been between SLC/Idaho its whole life. Rust as a whole is minimal with none on the frame, but ive had to change all of the calipers do to rust and crud causing them to stick. Ill check for rust in the filler neck later. Ill be puttin the car on stands a bit later in the day and ill try to see if its the sway bar links and bushings. I guess i can also pull the caliper off and make sure the pads and the clips are fit snug in the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 Change the upstream o2 sensor and the spark plugs (NGK or Denso only) Popping during braking if not a balljoint or brake issue is likely the front control arm pivot bushing., the back one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadu108 Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 The filler isnt very rusty at all... Just some surface spots here and there. Havnt gotten around to check the front yet. I was busy messing around in the back of the car. Ive been getting some vibration/shaking i feel like is coming from the back, so i checked the bearings(seem smooth, no play), axles(same) etc. Im leaning on my camber is out... However i cant tell if its from my strut being dead, or some bushings. Gr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 check the seal on the gas cap for tears/cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadu108 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 Forgot to check the gas cap. But i did discover the 2 lines coming from the right side of (i think?) the egr that no longer fit snug. They arnt cracked or anything, but i could pull them off rly easily, and to test i pushed them on as hard as i could and drove around, and the power response seemed much better and more consistent... But that was light driving. Regardless ill replace those hoses tmrw and put it through a longer harder drive and see what i happens. Does anyone know the diameter of those little vaccume hoses? However im still lost on the pop while braking. The pads are secure, the clips are solid, the ball joint is good as far as i could try to move with a pry bar. The bushing on that control arm look alright but i guess looking at it doesnt do much :p. i guess i can replace the sway bar links and the control arm bushings and see what i get, but ill have to work in some time to do that. Maybe when i got a couple days of where i dont need to use the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadu108 Posted June 21, 2019 Author Share Posted June 21, 2019 Replacing the hoses was a big difference. Also have a leaking fuel injector it seems. At some point in the near future ill replace the plugs, wires, and injectors... But for now im working on other things that i started a new thread for. Thanks everyone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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