Part numbers for self locking nuts?

[Lightning Racer]

I'm planning to reboot the left rear inner axle joint on my 1996 Legacy Brighton wagon.  Reading the service manual, it says that the nuts on the rear suspension are one time use only, and it looks like I need to undo all the ones that attach to the rear housing assembly to:

• strut mounts (2)
• lateral link assembly
• trailing link assembly

I couldn't find the nuts mentioned on Rock Auto or Subaruparts.com.  Anyone have the part numbers or have a site link with more complete listing of parts?

Also, any tips on how to do the rebooting?  The service manual says to remove the axle from the diff, but can I leave the axle cup on the diff?  It looks like if I have to remove the axle from the diff, I'll need the side oil seal protector and drive shaft remover (pry bar work?), or potentially damage the diff oil seal.  Might as well pay someone to do it if I have to buy all the little tools.

If it sounds like I'm overally cautious or a newb, yes, I've never worked on a drivetrain or suspension before.  Just bought my first breaker bar and haven't used it yet.

Edited June 25, 2019 by Lightning Racer

[FerGloyale]

Yeah.....Waaaay over cautious.

Perfectly fine to reuse the nuts.  Although if they strip or break off coming apart the no obviously.  

Pop the CV out of the diff with a prybar, easy.

Rebooting is a PITA.  Get a good pair of snapring pliers, and also crimp type clamps and tool for the new boots.  The pull through and bend clamps are  aPITA.  Although I have reused the factory clamps in a pinch.

[Lightning Racer]

Good to hear. I'll reuse the nuts.

I probably won't buy a crimp tool that I might not use again.  The clamps that came with the Beck Arnley boot look like what you describe as pull through and bend.  They look innocent enough, but I'll see. Maybe I'll slip both those and the old factory ones on the axle, and cut off the ones that don't work as well.

Edited June 25, 2019 by Lightning Racer

[1 Lucky Texan]

there is a youtube video of an inner (front)  DOJ being regreased and rebooted in-car. Looks awkward but do-able.

[FerGloyale]

10 hours ago, Lightning Racer said:

Good to hear. I'll reuse the nuts.

I probably won't buy a crimp tool that I might not use again.  The clamps that came with the Beck Arnley boot look like what you describe as pull through and bend.  They look innocent enough, but I'll see. Maybe I'll slip both those and the old factory ones on the axle, and cut off the ones that don't work as well.

the tool is like $15 bucks, and the quality of the clamping action will be WAAAY better.

Slip throughs from beck arnley, you'll never get em tight, they will spew grease.

I'd reuse the factory ones before using the ones that come with the boots.

[Lightning Racer]

7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

there is a youtube video of an inner (front)  DOJ being regreased and rebooted in-car. Looks awkward but do-able.

I saw that.  Actually it was a FTJ in that video.  That's where I got the idea to leave the inner cup on the diff.  I'm assuming the DOJ will come apart just as easily.

Edited June 25, 2019 by Lightning Racer

[Lightning Racer]

3 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

the tool is like $15 bucks, and the quality of the clamping action will be WAAAY better.

Slip throughs from beck arnley, you'll never get em tight, they will spew grease.

I'd reuse the factory ones before using the ones that come with the boots.

I'll reuse the factory ones then, like what was on in the youtube video that was mentioned by someone else.

$15 is twice what the boot cost.  So far, I have also spent $21 on a breaker bar, and $39 on 1/2" sockets in anticipation of doing this, but I hope to use those tools again.