One rear tire rubbing on the very outer edge/corner under load.

[idosubaru]

2" lifted XT6 with 225 60 16 tires.

Sitting stationary there's no rubbing and it doesn't even look obvious and close where it's rubbing. 

When driving under load (weight in the rear, up a steep grade, or hitting a large bump), the drivers side rear tire will rub on the extreme outer corner of the tire against the body sheet metal in front of the tire.  It appears that the top of the tire is "going inward" driving under load and carrying weight, driving up grades (more weight shifts to the rear) or hitting large bumps. 

I assume this is a bushing - will it be obvious once I get under there and load and push things around which one is bad?

Is that likely to be the inner arm (the big one with the bearing housing) or the outer arm (the one that extends forward from the rear arm)?  

 

[idosubaru]

A few threads vaguely mention Superpro bushings for rear EA82 control arms, but Superpro lists them as EA81 bushings. But EA81 and EA82 rear arms are not the same.  Are the bushings usable in both EA81 and EA82?

https://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-control-arm-bush-kit-for-a-superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-subaru-leone-1979-1994-gen-ii-sedan-wagon-/productnr-SPF1144K/cid-999500431/vid-

[ferp420]

sounds like you need more lift or smaller tires

just a guess but the weight of your body on the drivers side is just enuff to make the tires rub

also you can adjust your bumpstops

if it is a bushing that went bad it should be obviose when you grab the rear end and shake it

[idosubaru]

8 hours ago, ferp420 said:

sounds like you need more lift or smaller tires

just a guess but the weight of your body on the drivers side is just enuff to make the tires rub

also you can adjust your bumpstops

if it is a bushing that went bad it should be obviose when you grab the rear end and shake it

Thanks!  ive run this SJR lift and tire size  before.  but now that you say that, it was on a manual trans XT6 so maybe that weight difference is in play too.  I’ll check bushing and top hat flip orientation. 

I was deciding between 200-250 pound rear springs, maybe I should have done the higher rate.  

 

[idosubaru]

 

All the bushings seemed perfectly tight with no play and smooth movement as the arm articulates.  The arrow is where it's rubbing. 

The gap is the same on passengers and drivers side.  With the mud flap removed I see there's a small part of the metal edge bent towards the tire.  

This metal is stout - how do I bend that back without bashing it and turning it into an uneven rust haven?  Channel locks will bend the "bent part" back, but then the adjacent edges get distorted that the channel locks aren't touching, if that makes sense.

Edited August 5, 2019 by idosubaru

[ferp420]

looks like theres some cutting in your future or a bigger lift

[czny]

14 hours ago, idosubaru said:

 

All the bushings seemed perfectly tight with no play and smooth movement as the arm articulates.  The arrow is where it's rubbing. 

The gap is the same on passengers and drivers side.  With the mud flap removed I see there's a small part of the metal edge bent towards the tire.  

This metal is stout - how do I bend that back without bashing it and turning it into an uneven rust haven?  Channel locks will bend the "bent part" back, but then the adjacent edges get distorted that the channel locks aren't touching, if that makes sense.

How about rolling a piece of pipe or round bar stock through the gap again & again until you have the clearance you want?

Increase size of round stock in increments of course.