Clutch adjustment and bleeding

[Basket_case]

Before I go and do something that might cost me the progress I've made so far, someone double-check me on this.  I can't get the clutch to bleed if I have the master cylinder tightened against the firewall.  With the master cylinder against the firewall, the master cylinder won't draw in more fluid when the clutch pedal is returned to up.  Yes, I close the bleeder before letting the clutch up.  Even with a pressure bleeder hooked up, no flow comes out when the bleeder is opened.    If I loosen the nuts that retain the master cylinder to almost the end of the studs on the firewall and leave them there, I can bleed the clutch just fine and the master cylinder draws fluid from the reservoir when the pedal is returned to the up position.  This seems to indicate to me that the clutch needs to be adjusted so that the master cylinder rod is pulled further away from the master cylinder (i.e., towards the interior of the car) when the master cylinder is tightened against the firewall.  Am I missing something?  Thanks in advance.

[GeneralDisorder]

Was it working before you touched it?

GD

[Basket_case]

Yes and no.  It worked in the sense that the clutch functioned, although the pedal had some freeplay in it that felt worse than it did two months ago.  It didn't work in the sense that after the first time I cracked the bleeder, the master cylinder would not draw more fluid in no matter how many times I pumped the clutch pedal.  Also, the pressure bleeder was unable to push fluid out.  After loosening the nuts on the master cylinder, the master cylinder filled from the reservoir as expected.  Two pumps of the clutch pedal was all it took to know that it was behaving properly.  Last night, I adjusted the rod on the master cylinder and tightened the nuts and now it works as it should. 

It seems like sometimes you have to adjust mechanisms/linkages so that they function properly,  not necessarily as per formal instructions.  I usually follow procedures to a fault, but when things don't work after checking and checking some more, then it's time to experiment before replacing parts.  I've had to do a similar thing on my Honda.  I don't know the history of this car or what parts are on there.  Maybe the linkage is worn to where it affects function, something is bent or there are non-OEM parts.