Numbchux Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 On my most recent purchase, my '01 VDC, I got some assurance that there will be a title, so I'm beginning a plan to fix it. One of the issues is related to the shifter. What it feels like is that something in the linkage (cable, etc.) is binding/bending. I have to mess with it to get it to "engage" park (electronically, the prawl engages, but the light on the dash won't always come on, which of course prevents the car from starting). And when I pull it down towards the gears, I have to pull it all the way to "1" to get it to engage "D". Having to jiggle the shifter to get it to start made me first think it was the range/neutral switch on the transmission, but since it doesn't work the other way, I'm tempted to think it's something else. This kind of reminds me of an SVX I had briefly. The story when I bought it was that the shift cable had broken, and they put a new one in it, and it still didn't work correctly so it needed some internal repair. We found that the brand-new OE cable would kink when "pushing". So we could start it, and one guy hold the brakes, while the other guy reaches down with a pliers from under the hood and pull on the shifter to put it in gear. Then you could drive it, and the cable would "pull" just fine back into Park. Now, we test drove it, and the transmission was also slipping REALLY badly, so we parted out the car, so we never attempted to fix it. The difference is that it would go into Park just fine. I put this Outback up on ramps, and took a look in a few positions, and I didn't see the cable obviously doing anything like that, or shifting in the mounts (or mounts deforming). So, long story short. Anyone seen anything internal in the transmission binding causing cable issues? Or should I focus my diagnostic on external parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 I have a pounding headache and can't think or probably type straight...have you checked the selector on the passengers side of the trans? I've seen parts of those chipped/broken/missing, but they did still function. If I didn't use those parts on the donor transmission, I've got a parts transmission I can pull any pins or clips you need from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 The first thing I would do is, remove the clip and remove the cable end from the shift lever on the transmission. You should be able to move the lever by hand. Work the shifter and see if it moves freely. You have it on ramps, block the rear wheels, turn the key on and move the shifter out of Park before you remove the cable from the lever. That should move it forward. On our 95 and 97 I put a jack under the transmission rear mount and remove the 6 bolts that fasten it to the floor. I lower it about an inch to remove the 2 bolts for the cable housing mounts. Once the cable is loose you can lower it a little more to change the neutral safety switch if need be. The end of the cable has a ring with a rubber bushing and a metal sleeve in the center. I have found the pin that the sleeve goes on will rust and freeze to the sleeve. Then the only give when shifting is the rubber and it doesn't give much so it will bend the cable. I only had to replace one shifter last year because the cable rusted and broke. That was on our 95 Legacy RHD wagon with over 467,000 miles. I can not help you inside the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 21 hours ago, idosubaru said: have you checked the selector on the passengers side of the trans? That was my first thought, but after playing with it for awhile the other day, I think electrically it's reading correctly, as you can pull the shifter all the way down to "1" and it will barely engage Drive, so I'm thinking more on the linkage side of it. 14 hours ago, Rampage said: The end of the cable has a ring with a rubber bushing and a metal sleeve in the center. I have found the pin that the sleeve goes on will rust and freeze to the sleeve. Then the only give when shifting is the rubber and it doesn't give much so it will bend the cable. That's a good point, and that could cause an issue at both ends of the travel like I'm seeing. This car has higher mileage (210k or something) and has been sitting for the last year or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 2 hours ago, Numbchux said: That was my first thought, but after playing with it for awhile the other day, I think electrically it's reading correctly, as you can pull the shifter all the way down to "1" and it will barely engage Drive, so I'm thinking more on the linkage side of it. That's a good point, and that could cause an issue at both ends of the travel like I'm seeing. This car has higher mileage (210k or something) and has been sitting for the last year or so... Yeah, that's what I meant - the cable, cable retainer, fitting where the shift cable engages the inhibitor switch - the linkage is what i meant and have seen cracked/damaged/missing pieces before. And I've seen tight/seized/snapped clutch and speedo cables so if it sat maybe those cables can get stiff and seized internally as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 Yea, it certainly could be something like that. I looked once with the shifter at each end of the travel, and didn't notice anything shifting like that, so I got to thinking if I should suspect something internal. Once I get the title for sure, I'll start tearing it apart and look for parts binding (or if I run out of things to do, I'll tear some stuff off the parts car for some experimentation). We sold a lot of cables when I was at the dealership, so maybe it's just that simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 It was hard to imagine you wouldn't guess or notice that right away, and i've never seen the AT cables be problematic (eventhough they far out number MT cables in existence)...but who knows what a 20 year old high mileage beast holds in it's closet. Out of curiosity - do you recall if it was just a mixed bag or if it was a particular kind of cable more common? MT, speedo, ebrake, hood latch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, idosubaru said: It was hard to imagine you wouldn't guess or notice that right away, and i've never seen the AT cables be problematic (eventhough they far out number MT cables in existence)...but who knows what a 20 year old high mileage beast holds in it's closet. Out of curiosity - do you recall if it was just a mixed bag or if it was a particular kind of cable more common? MT, speedo, ebrake, hood latch? AT shift cables, all the time. Although they usually break. We probably stocked 3 different part numbers, and sold one once a week or so. Edited August 15, 2019 by Numbchux 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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