Outback winner or loser

[Papa Wheelie]

I am looking at buying a 2002 Outback H6 for a good price.
It has 260k miles but is well maintained and very clean.

It has a issue with the front differential. The seller reported that he heard a clunk and popping noise while making a low speed turn then drove it home 1/2 mile and parked it.
I checked the vehicle and the passenger CV and axle seems fine but has a LOT of longitudinal and axial end play where it meets the trans. The roll pin is not sheared but you can pull the CV in and out of the trans about 3/8" The seal is shot, the seal shroud is loose and its leaking but hasn't been for very long. I also found the driver side differential adjuster unsecured and turned out several full turns. My guess that the lock tab of the driver side adjuster fell out, the adjuster loosened and it skipped a tooth in the low speed turn.

I am thinking I could reset the differential pre-load, replace the seal and repair or replace the CV,  change the oil and make this a decent driver again....any opinions?

Edited September 3, 2019 by Papa Wheelie
more info

[el_freddo]

Sounds like you’ve nailed the issue. The concern is what damage is done to the crown or pinion gears while they’ve ran untrue to each other. 

Could be worth the gamble. Worst case scenario is a gearbox replacement down the line. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Numbchux]

You might be able to just reset the preload and get away with it. I'd definitely want to drop the front diff gear oil before I considered saving that transmission (if that has been backing out for awhile, it could have chewed up bearings and/or gears).

If it's not a VDC (unique transmission), just grab a used transmission and toss it in. If it is a VDC, that may still be an option, but not nearly as easy...

[1 Lucky Texan]

you might find a used trans with half that mileage.

[ThosL]

Vehicles with problems like this "mechanic specials" are out there in droves; most people would say steer clear of any used vehicles with problems, because something else could be bad in it.  

Personally if I knew 100% that your analysis was correct and knew how to fix it and could get another 50K plus out of, it would be worth a try at a low price $500-$700 or so.  

[Papa Wheelie]

The seller reported a slight ticking noise for the last few weeks prior to the breakdown. I dont have the trans code but google tells me its probably a VDC.
I have read the preload adjustment procedure and it seems straightforward. He is asking 700 and I offered 500, he is thinking.

How difficult is a trans swap?

[wtdash]

Trans isn't that hard...search on here/online for info. All Subarus of that era will be similar. 

 

Also, that H6 is known to wear out the timing guides/tensioners. They'd be suspect @ 260K.....and that job doesn't look like fun. I'd rather do 10 timing belts......

Edited September 7, 2019 by wtdash

[1 Lucky Texan]

4 hours ago, wtdash said:

Trans isn't that hard...search on here/online for info. All Subarus of that era will be similar. 

 

Also, that H6 is known to wear out the timing guides/tensioners. They'd be suspect @ 260K.....and that job doesn't look like fun. I'd rather do 10 timing belts......

 

I've read that valve lash should really be checked on a 200K+ H6, exhaust valves stretch. Checking is not too difficult, making changes to the adjustment can be brutal...