fuji4x4 Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 (edited) Alright guys, I've been trying to figure out this issue on my own as well as help from several mechanic friends and TONS of research on the forums but it's finally requiring me to make a post. I have an 84 EA81 4wd GL. Came to me completely stock. Once clutch was replaced the clutch cable snapped (old cable what ever) I replaced the cable and it was still hard but shifted... For almost 300 miles. For those 300 miles I kept having to adjust it closer and closer until the TOB has to be grinding on the flywheel to get enough leverage to push the PP in. I thought maybe it was a malfunctioning PP I got so I bought an all new nicer clutch kit. STILL ROCK HARD CLUTCH I've read hundreds of threads searching the replies for my golden ticket as to why my clutch is hard as rock to push in. I've gone through and tested each component independently. Pedal>Cable>Fork>TOB>PP>Disk>Flywheel Cable routed correctly, no pressure unless trying to actuate clutch. Pressure plate just too hard to actuate! Only thing I can think of is something wrong with the fork or TOB (which is new and properly greased) My entire body weight pressing against the clutch pedal is ALMOST enough to actuate the clutch. There's got to be something simple I'm skipping over Out of the hundreds of threads I've had to of read by now, my issue seems to mirror the one found unresolved in this thread https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138371-hard-clutch-pedal/?tab=comments#comment-1164388 Edited October 18, 2019 by fuji4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 I've pulled the engine and gone over everything so many times I know I have every inch memorized haha I'm at the end of my rope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 Better give us the part number of the clutch kit for knowledgables to compare You get quicker at pulling the clutch out don't you? Compared each part old with new? The size hole where all fingers meet same? And where TOB contacts fingers? Same spot close to end of fingers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 225mm kit isn't it? An EA82 pressure plate will fit and work a 225 mm EA81 flywheel and work, just not very well - I have done so I know but did not get hard pedal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 Difference between EA81 and EA82 is a 2 mm difference in the step machined into the flywheel, so a corresponding difference must be in the pressure plate. An EA82 friction plate won't fit an EA81 4 sp 4WD, so I am stumped Must've why it was sold Clutch fork black or blue? Look ok? Not cracked or holed? Might crack after this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 Probably not the Pedal Box Issue but sounds like you should check it off the list anyways. Get down there and depress the clutch pedal as you look closely at the clutch side of the pedal box. On the first Gen cars this is super common. The pivot of the clutch pedal tends to bind over time and cause the sheet metal of the pedal box to flex and crack. Look close and then check it off the list if I’m wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 Clutch is the luk15003. And yes everything is the same. Also got this car as a gift from my grandfather so I know the history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, moosens said: Probably not the Pedal Box Issue but sounds like you should check it off the list anyways. Get down there and depress the clutch pedal as you look closely at the clutch side of the pedal box. On the first Gen cars this is super common. The pivot of the clutch pedal tends to bind over time and cause the sheet metal of the pedal box to flex and crack. Look close and then check it off the list if I’m wrong. YES it does bend but I thought that was a reaction to pressure. Not the reason for pressure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 What brand of clutch cable did you get? It sounds like it’s stretched beyond being useful and it could possibly be chewing itself out from the inside. It would be worth pulling the cable out and check how hard it is to pull/push through the outer casing. You should be able to do this by hand. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, el_freddo said: What brand of clutch cable did you get? It sounds like it’s stretched beyond being useful and it could possibly be chewing itself out from the inside. It would be worth pulling the cable out and check how hard it is to pull/push through the outer casing. You should be able to do this by hand. Cheers Bennie Cable works great. Very smooth. The pedal box is very bendy so I wonder if that's it. EDIT: Got new cable from dealership. The "new" one that I put on already has bent washers.. it was from oreillys. And taking the PB to my buddy's shop to have reinforced. We shall see if this fixes the issue. Edited September 24, 2019 by fuji4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 I know you said it, but it’s positively routed properly? And hooked up to the pedal box in the proper location with the right fitting/stacking sequence of pin/cable/box or cable/box/pin? I’ve driven a few hundred miles without a clutch cable, fun times lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Let me see....here is a few shots of my pedal box I adapted to take EA82 cable in my Brumby, but you get the idea of extra bracing required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 Right on ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable. The one thing I learned from this is BUY QUALITY PARTS. Man the difference between the oriellys cable and the genuine Subaru cable is insane. Can you guess who is who? Edited September 28, 2019 by fuji4x4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 4 hours ago, fuji4x4 said: Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable. Do you mean PP: pressure plate, or PB: Pedal Box? What makes you think it was both and not one of them? Seems like one of them would probably be the main cause of the majority of the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Peanut Butter? OP has used PB for pedal box in earlier posts left cable looks genuine it is always good to fix a few things at a time so never really know for sure what was the culprit good news 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuji4x4 Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 It was infact the pedal box that was the CAUSE. A sidenote was the cables terrible quality. Basically just welded this plate on the wall that was cracked and bending. Strong as hell now. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rae houghton Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 When you suggest it is the PP...is that because you think the PP is worn beyond recommended limits. (excuse my ignorance)? I was looking at this thread, because my clutch cable is broken. I need to replace it, and was looking here for information. It is a tricky thing for an ignorant Backyard mechanic to fix. Should I take / undo the whole pedal to replace the cable? or is there another more practical way.? i can barely see under the dash let alone get my hands in there. I am thinking best to remove my seat so I can get a better view and access to the pedal system. Any tidbits of help would be appreciated. Here in Australia a new part is hard to get but I would like a new cable if possible. When I phoned an auto parts chain they said they could only get one custom made for $380. A wrecker I could get a used one for $70. ...(but how worn) A nearby Subaru dealership sent me a parts list for the cable. Said the cable did not come with all the parts, and I had to pin - point which part is broken. Well it is the cable...(broken at the pedal / firewall area.that should be simple enough to purchase.....but not so simple to purchase. subar dealer contacted Subaru , who said they don't have OR MAKE that part anymore anyway, any and all comments welcomed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Remove kick panel for better access. From memory the last time I did a cable swap I didn’t remove the clutch pedal (I could be wrong though - I removed the pedal for the L cable recently), the driver’s seat certainly did not move out of the vehicle. Use a torch or some sort of light to brighten up that dark space - it’ll make work so much easier! Cheers Bennie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 I'd try lookingfor a used oem one. Maybe low milage if the car is still in piece? probably wouldn't hurt to lube the replacement cable. I have not read or experienced a pressure plate causing that sort of failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rae houghton Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Thanks El Freddo and Dave T for replies. KICK plate. didn't know thee was on that could be removed. In fact I don't know what a kick plate is except it sounds like it is down by the feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Oh, those kick plates.... I remove the the first time I have to get under there, and have never put one back. I forget they exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rae houghton Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 now I know people are pulling my leg. A kick plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rae houghton Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 In Australia the steering shaft is right between and over the clutch and brake pedal. Tricky tricky. but i like the idea that a plate could be on the inside of the engine compartment and have it removeable. They should do that for all cars....or at least make is so it can be loose and hands can get in from the other side. Must write Subaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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