palfer Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 Hi The ABS was working fine until I changed the passenger front axle. Now the when I push the pedal it groans badly and pulses causing the light to go on. Did some research and found the diagnostic connector (black) and grounding pins under the dash. Procedure I found says to ground pin 6 but that pin isn't populated. There are only 3 pins populated I grounded all 3 (individually) then key on. None cause the ABS to flash. One of them causes the air bag light to flash. Any ideas? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 1 hour ago, palfer said: The ABS was working fine until I changed the passenger front axle. Check the Tone Ring for cracks. It is mounted on the inside of the wheel hub. Maybe the wire on the sensor got pinched or unplugged. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 ^^^ what he said sounds good, maybe check for a particle of metallic debris on the sensor too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 thanks. I did unbolt and examined the sensor. It had some metal shavings on the end but appeared ok. I cleaned it off and looked at the wire as well. Looked ok. I didn't look at the tone ring. Thinking it must be the sensor as I had no issues at all until I started moving the strut around to change the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Tone ring, sensor or wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 thanks. Is there a way to test the sensor at the connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 more importantly, why is it groaning. if it's not brakes related it's probably a failing bearing or loose axle nut. figure out the groaning issue first, remove the abs sensor from the hub see if it stops groaning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Thanks NVU. Things are going from bad to worse on this repair. In my quest to trigger the ABS light to flash a code I grounded the clear/yellow connector pictured in the link below and turned the key on. It started to smoke, so I quickly removed the grounding pin. However now the car will no longer start. dash illuminates and it cranks but won't start. I checked the slow blow fuses in the engine compartment and they all are OK. When I turn the key to "on", I do not hear the fuel pump energize. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-NhwHr61gST7MnfIbt1Rd8SW6B3huFq8/view Any help is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Did you check your other fuses? Does the CEL illuminate with the ignition key ON, engine OFF? Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Yes, all the lights on the dash illuminate with key on. I've checked every fuse in engine compartment and under dash. All are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 13 hours ago, palfer said: When I turn the key to "on", I do not hear the fuel pump SBF2 is open, or a wire to or from it. If you grounded pins 2 or 3, I have no idea if it would have damaged the Engine Control Module or not. If you grounded pin 5 then when you turned the key on the Main Relay would have closed its contacts. The only fuse to the battery is SBF2. Yellow connector. See image below. Pin-Goes to 2---ECM 3---ECM 5---Main Relay contact (other contact goes to SBF2 30amp) 9---Ground Slow Blow Fuse 2 is located in the fuse box under the hood. SBF2 30amp powers the following. ECM Fuel pump relay Main relay OBD-2 service connector 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Most helpful. Both SBF1&2 tested ok with a meter. For kicks I swapped one into two and bingo the car starts. Now I need to find where to get a new SBF and return to the drive-ability issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 One down, one to go. Our 95 and 97 Postal Wagons do not have ABS, so I haven't had to work on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Yes, I'm not sure that the issue is in the ABS actually. I think the vibrating/knocking may have goofed the wheel bearing but on checking the bearing (rocking the tire, top to bottom) there was no excessive play at all. There was no braking issue whatsoever until I replaced the axle. now my knocking under the floorboards is gone but i have this mystery problem when pressing the brake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 (edited) Try spinning the wheel with one hand and grabbing on the shock spring with the other hand. It's easier to do with both tires off the ground. My guess is something wrong with the bearing causes the tonewheel to rub on the knuckle. It's probably disintegrated enough to not make noise unless braking. Edited October 28, 2019 by nvu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 Have you checked to ensure the sensor isn’t damaged? I noticed in a YouTube video on a Gen2 that the abs sensor has a little flat pin like piece to read the ring tone. Apparently it’s really easy to break these while doing work on the driveshaft and it’s recomended that you remove the abs sensor before doing any work in this area. I’d confirm that the sensor is not damaged. And my experience of worn wheel bearings on the EJs is that they don’t necessarily have that slop in them that allows you to wobble the wheel. But they will have noise in them, that’s a confirmation of a dead bearing if there’s any rumbling in them. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 On 10/26/2019 at 9:17 PM, palfer said: I did unbolt and examined the sensor. It had some metal shavings on the end but appeared ok. Were the shavings clean or just old rusty flakes? If they are clean they are fresh and you should find out where they came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 I was able to get back to this today. When I took the rotor off I noticed the tone ring was loose, 3 of the bolts were no longer tight. Also the tip of the ABS was broken off. I didn't notice that when I removed it earlier. I personally changed the bearings and installed new hubs and I know I fully tightened the tone rings. The vibrating I kept noticing definitely damaged the bearing assembly. I purchased a used hub/knuckle from a salvage yard. Installed it along with the ABS sensor. Good news is the ABS light is gone, the groaning/vibration when I brake is gone also. However the knocking upon acceleration is still there. Also noticeable when I make turns. I swear it sounds like a bad axle, but I've changed the axle twice now so I have to consider other possibilities. I did replace the control arm bushings about 4 years ago so I guess it could be that. Also have recently changed the ball joints, tie rod ends and they both look OK too. Can you guys think of anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 aftermarket axles are notorious for being junk, so it could very well be the axle itself... unless you bought a genuine Subaru axle... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 I tried a new aftermarket front axle in our 95 RHD and the outer joint was so tight it jerked the steering wheel a quarter turn as it rotated, so it is on my scrap pile. Reman axles go about 2 years until the boot splits and the joint gets dirt in it. Wheel bearings should be Subaru, or like you did, get a complete knuckle from a yard. Aftermarket wheel bearings with a new hub only lasted about 5 days in our 95. The Subaru bearing I put in about 5 years ago is still going strong. When you change the bushings on the control arms, you are supposed to have the weight of the vehicle on the wheels when you tighten the bolt on the front bushing and the nut on the rear bushing. I pull the car onto ramps to tighten them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 Well i bought a remanufactured axle from the Subaru dealer and it made a world of difference. I still hear a slight knocking when accelerating from a full stop but nothing like it was. Bugs me that I can't seem to fully solve it but its drive able now. I guess I'll just have to see if the knocking worsens over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Have you ever had to replace the stubby shaft that extends out of the front diff? I'm think that autozone axle might've goofed that too. I see a small leak at the front diff, the knocking/vibrating must've caused the seal to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 1 hour ago, palfer said: Have you ever had to replace the stubby shaft that extends out of the front diff? I'm think that autozone axle might've goofed that too. I see a small leak at the front diff, the knocking/vibrating must've caused the seal to fail. Sure. Automatics pop right out. Pop out stubby shaft and install another one by tapping it in with a rubber mallet or wood block. They’re the same on both sides and all of them from like 1988-2004 are all the same part For automatics. If the seal is leaking you replace the front diff side seal. Remove that large retaining ring. Mark exactly how it’s oriented before moving it. Then count exactly how many turns it takes to remove it. Install new seal. Reinstall the retaining ring the same number of turns and to the exact same orientation mark noted before you removed it. Don’t mess it up or the front diff will fail. That ring accounts for bearing preload and ring and pinion play. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 I’ve not heard of anyone replacing the diff stub axle due to a leak. There’s no reason to. Oil seals will eventually fail due to age, going hard etc. If there’s an issue with the stub axle this will be part of something larger, which you’ll be more concerned about since there will be nastier symptoms! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palfer Posted November 3, 2019 Author Share Posted November 3, 2019 A bad aftermarket axle caused the bearing to fail. I fixed the that with a used knuckle but it also caused a leak in the shaft seal and there’s still a slight knock upon acceleration. After installation of an axle from the dealer. my plan is to change the seal and the shaft to stop the leak and hopefully the knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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