Zoltan Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 I have 06 Outback with an auto transmission and a NA EJ25 that has a connecting rod sticking our of the block next to the oil pressure gauge. Dont you love it when you can diagnos the problem 3 seconds after opening the hood! The motor only moved a few degrees so I was only able to get out one torque convertor bolt. I pulled the motor with the torque convertor as I could see no other way to get it out. Any ideas on how to get the torque convertor off the engine, now that its sitiing on my garage floor. Short Block is garbage. I will take off the heads and reuse them on a 2002 EJ25 I pulled from pick n pull. Does anyone happen to know if the 2002 torque convertor will work the 2006? I could go and pick it up as the pick and pull is close to me. Also I need to get the PCV valve conection off the Garbage block. Is this pressed in. With the dual outlets on this PCV connnection coming out of the block, I cant seem to figure out how to get it out as I cant get a wrench or socket on it. Thanks again for everyones input. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Drill the TC bolts from the backside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Take an air chisel or a hammer and a chisel and blast some holes in the rear of the engine for access. It's junk anyway. I've had to do this a number of times and it always works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoltan Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 Ok. THanks. I will try drilling it out first. I dont want to hurt the thread on the torque convertor. How exactly would I drill this out? Do I just use a slightly smaller drill bit? Sorry for being a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Best way to do it without damaging the converter, is to disassemble the motor. With the oil pan off, you can access about 1/3 of the bottom bolts. And if you loosen the crank half bolts, you should be able to turn the crank enough to get to all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 15 hours ago, Zoltan said: Ok. THanks. I will try drilling it out first. I dont want to hurt the thread on the torque convertor. How exactly would I drill this out? Do I just use a slightly smaller drill bit? Sorry for being a pain. Yes. Exactly. I’ve never had a problem, been easy as pie every time. Right handed bit will be moving in the “unthreading” direction for the bolt. Use a smaller bit and it’ll probably back the bolt out. If you have an extractor this is one of the few times it may help. After drilling, let it cool down and try to unthread the bolt with an extractor - just really light don’t push or force it as extractors are hard but brittle. it’s all backwards so you’ll turn it “right” to loosen. but if not - drill it small and step up sizes until the shell of the bolt just backs out. Use right handed bits to drill so they’re backing the bolt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 19 hours ago, idosubaru said: Drill the TC bolts from the backside. Through the torque converter? I can’t see how this works. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 2 hours ago, el_freddo said: Through the torque converter? I can’t see how this works. Cheers Bennie Maybe I’m miss-remembering or there are diffent torque converters, but I thought the holes were lass through and went all the way through, leaving access from the back. I’ve done this on 2000+ EJs, If I’m wrong - I’ve always done this some way that was easy and it didn’t take long. definitely didn’t split blocks. Once it’s on the ground there has to be an easy way to get them out because I’ve never had an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 (edited) I have seen two different outside diameter torque converters on a TZ102A, 4EAT. Maybe the larger diameter is for the 2.5. I remember the bolt hole pattern was a larger diameter because it did not fit our EJ22 flex plate. I just looked at the smaller diameter torque converter and the starter ring gear is in the way of drilling from the backside. Edited November 16, 2019 by Rampage add info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 3 hours ago, idosubaru said: I’ve done this on 2000+ EJs, If I’m wrong - I’ve always done this some way that was easy and it didn’t take long. definitely didn’t split blocks. Once it’s on the ground there has to be an easy way to get them out because I’ve never had an issue. Well you’d know then, I’m just a backyarder that’s seen several torque converters in parts yards, I haven’t played with them as such - but am about to once I crack the ATF lines from the radiator cooling/heating lines. This is in an SG Foz and the first auto Subaru in the family. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 5 hours ago, el_freddo said: Well you’d know then, I’m just a backyarder that’s seen several torque converters in parts yards, I haven’t played with them as such - but am about to once I crack the ATF lines from the radiator cooling/heating lines. This is in an SG Foz and the first auto Subaru in the family. Cheers Bennie Nah, that’s a good question you brought up, I’ve done it but could be misremembering. I have some but didn’t remember to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 26 minutes ago, idosubaru said: Nah, that’s a good question you brought up, I’ve done it but could be misremembering. I have some but didn’t remember to check. Well on the SG it’s how you said - accessible from the rear/through the starter motor hole. I’ve probably got my wires crossed from an old Holden setup and what I remember seeing on a Gen1 I pulled apart once. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoltan Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 I just ended up grinding and chiseling away the block to gain access. I tried drilling it out but the flywheel was in the way and I could not drill perfectly straight and then I ened up breaking a atraight bolt extractor I just bought for the job. Thanks for everyones advise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadspit Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 I’m sure this has already been handled but when I junked the 2.5 in my outback it was locked up tight and a grinder wheel made short work of the block and then it’s pretty easy to remove TC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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