brake line flare tool

[brus brother]

Need to make "bubble" flares for nicopp brake lines on a Chrysler Concorde 2000 that needs all lines replaced. I have read that since around 1995, all American cars have gone with metric style iso (bubble) flares and tube nuts/couplings.

Slightly rushed but am wondering if the cheaper ones available locally are worth the effort or just go with a brand like Eastwood.

Thoughts?

[Rampage]

I did our 96 Voyager a month ago from the abs box to the rear wheels with 3/16 nickel copper alloy. All the flares were double flare. I was able to reuse the existing nuts.

[brus brother]

Unfortunately, the Chrysler Concorde uses "bubble" flares (not double). There is a very thorough youtube video and my reading is that while you can get away using a bubble flared brake line in a double flare seat, the opposite is not true as the double flare line will bottom out before being able to seal.

There are various adapters available but in doing  all four wheels and master cylinder, it is more cost effective to invest in a $170 professional flaring tool.

I have a $25 bubble flaring tool ready for pickup from Advance Auto and will give it a try before going for the pro setup.

[brus brother]

Picked up a cheapo (~$25 with discount) bubble flaring tool from Advance Auto. Took a few tries to get the hang of the tool then unioned both master cylinder lines together to test and the flare worked great (no leaks). The unit is compact enough to work while the lines are on the car.

While trying to be as exact as possible, the Nicopp line recommended by other members is extremely flexible and appears malleable as the bubble flare crushes nicely into the receiving end. 

[Rampage]

That stuff is really nice to work with.

A few years ago I had to replace the brake line that goes between the floor and the gas tank on our 95 RHD. Being a right hand drive, the brake lines go to the rear on the right side of the wagon then through the floor under the rear seat. I ran that line across, under the rear seat to get to the other side of the car, through the rubber plug and to the left rear wheel. It was soo quick and easy to do.

[Numbchux]

NiCopp is very forgiving, so I bet you had good luck with that style tool. I've fought with and broken those working with steel lines so many times. I started using Inline flaring tools, and will not go back.

I've been using this one for years, but recently bought this one so I can do multiple sizes.

[brus brother]

The reason I went with this one is that the dies screw onto the driver and the others without this style sometimes got stuck in the newly flared end.

Neither of the two you mention  come with an allen wrench to tighten the pipe in place! Geesh, they could take a tip from IKEA!

I once heard a comment that Gen Y considers a tool box as a collection of IKEA allen wrenches ;-)

[Numbchux]

As long as the end is deburred, I've never had an issue with the die getting stuck.

The issue I've had with the ones like you have, is getting enough clamping force on those 2 wing nuts to keep the tube from sliding.

 

Yes, the inline ones require an allen key/bit, as well as a wrench and a socket.

[CNY_Dave]

In a pinch I have made bubble flares with the standard tool, needs to be a situation where you can apply a fair bit of force to the nut to accomplish a last little bit of forming.