crazyman03 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 So I just did the oil on my wife's Forester over the last weekend and after doing it it started sputtering/shuttering when you let off the gas. Never got a code just acted weird. Welp, it finally threw a code - P0026. It was running fine up until the oil change. What are the odds that it the Pressure switch that the code refers to? I also noticed that i topped it off a bit too much on the oil - I was thinking maybe draining a bit out? Thoughts? 2009 Forester 200k. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 If you haven't replaced the AVLS pressure switches then do so immediately. They fail and leak often. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 I do have an oil leak but its the HG/Valve covers. the AVLS do you mean the pressure switch that the code refers? Looks like theres one by the oil spout and a matching one on the Passenger Side? Edit: The sensor that the P0026 refers to is "Intake Valve Control Solenoid". GD, i see that part is all of 2 bucks - i'll def. look into replacing it alongside. Any thoughts on the Valve control solenoid? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 20 minutes ago, crazyman03 said: I do have an oil leak but its the HG/Valve covers. the AVLS do you mean the pressure switch that the code refers? Looks like theres one by the oil spout and a matching one on the Passenger Side? Edit: The sensor that the P0026 refers to is "Intake Valve Control Solenoid". GD, i see that part is all of 2 bucks - i'll def. look into replacing it alongside. Any thoughts on the Valve control solenoid? -Justin Replace the pressure switch. They're $20-$30 from Subaru and super easy - but don't over tighten them or you'll crack the receiving end threads. Yes the code references the solenoid, which is adjacent to the switch. Replace the switch first. The switch is a just a one wire harness plug and it screws into the engine directly. that's the part you want to buy and replace. The solenoids are held down by a 10mm bolt and are like $150-$250 from Subaru. These fail much less frequently than the switches, so it's not a good guess to blindly replace them. The code is often remedied by the oil switch - additionally it's only $20 instead of $200, easy to replace, and they're prone to hemorrhage oil all over the engine bay so it's just smart to replace them first or even preventatively. So there's almost no reason to not replace it unless you're competing for the guiness book of world records for being frugal. If that doesn't work - then test or replace the solenoid...after making sure you don't have rodent wiring damage, prior accident in that area damaging connectors or wiring, or it wasn't a shipped replacement engine (which are prone to having those solenoids and respective harnesses damaged during shipment due to location). If you still have a question - reread this post. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Understood. I'll try the Pressure switch first then the solenoid if needed. So you think that the fact that i have a bit too much oil in there is likely unrelated? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 6 minutes ago, crazyman03 said: Understood. I'll try the Pressure switch first then the solenoid if needed. So you think that the fact that i have a bit too much oil in there is likely unrelated? -Justin You know it's overfilled so you can correct it easy enough, drain or remove some oil, maybe it's frothing and bubbles in the oil reduce the efficacy of the switch. dump the contexts of the oil filter a couple of times, that's easier than trying to drain via the plug without dumping too much. Overfilled Subaru's don't get that code. The code is routinely fixed by replacing the switch. If overfilling freaked those switches out then two codes would be likely, not one. So my guess is it's not related to the oil change. or I would guess it's more likely that the oil change precipitated the failure of an already compromised switch. You can diagnose via the FSM or swap sensors from passengers to drivers side and see if the code moves with the sensor or stays in the same location. That being said - you didn't say how overfilled. if you dumped in 10 quarts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 lol not 10 quarts - no. Since it has leaked a bit i topped it with maybe an extra half quart or so. Rookie, sure but since it leaks a bit i wanted a bit more time before i had to top it off. It doesnt leak a whole lot but never had a problem topping it off a bit like that -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 8 hours ago, crazyman03 said: lol not 10 quarts - no. Since it has leaked a bit i topped it with maybe an extra half quart or so. Rookie, sure but since it leaks a bit i wanted a bit more time before i had to top it off. It doesnt leak a whole lot but never had a problem topping it off a bit like that -Justin Ah. 1/2 quart is nothing and entirely benign. Good job. What you’re describing is common, keep checking and topping off just like you’re doing, oil loss over time isn’t a big deal if kept topped off and many oil leaks don’t progress quickly or cause immediate concern. I would take a peak so I know what it is. Probably valve cover or head gaskets on that car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Yeah, I figure its HG - I'm just not looking forward to doing it. I think i have a bit of rod-knock chatter so i'm debating just pulling it and doing an overhaul. She needs timing done so with all of the above i might as well make a party out of it. @ShawnW, you wanna take a "crack" at my motor? lol I've heard bad things about splitting the block and not mating it right again. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Check for piston slap that’s benign and can be remedied without splitting the block. classic symptom is loud at start up and quiets as it cools down. Why do you say rod knock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 It's not for the un-initiated.... splitting the block that is. I don't even bother with NA engines though. Just get a reman block from Subaru and chuck the old one in the box for the $200 core. It isn't worth the time, effort, or money to rebuild them. The Subaru reman blocks come with a 3yr / 36k warranty. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 13 hours ago, idosubaru said: Why do you say rod knock? When you "get on it" and the engine revs down - it'll rattle. I've had rod knock before on another vehicle, it sounds the same. GD, I didnt think of going that route - I'll defiantly keep that in mind. Rock auto has a whole longblock for 2600 after core, maybe worth going that route and getting the whole thing reman'd? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 2 hours ago, crazyman03 said: When you "get on it" and the engine revs down - it'll rattle. I've had rod knock before on another vehicle, it sounds the same. GD, I didnt think of going that route - I'll defiantly keep that in mind. Rock auto has a whole longblock for 2600 after core, maybe worth going that route and getting the whole thing reman'd? -Justin doubt i'd run that. i'd be hesitant to trust that product and long distance warranty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 4 hours ago, idosubaru said: doubt i'd run that. i'd be hesitant to trust that product and long distance warranty. Agree. Unknown rebuilds I would not trust. It takes a special eye for Subaru split-block rebuilding. This isn't your grandads small block (those aren't as simple as people think either). GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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