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My 06 WRX's shifter flops all over the place. Any advice on fixing it welcome. Links to decent videos or step-by-step text, etc. What replacement parts to avoid, any opportunity for upgraded parts, etc. ....I'm hoping it can all be done without dropping drive shafts, trannies or exhausts???

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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NASIOC and friend in the same sentence seems odd - lol! But, yeah, there'll be good info there somewhere. I have already discovered the link in 06 - up may have replaceable bushings at all 4 locations. Turn-in Concepts has some bushings. Watched one video on console removal but, my car looks a little different.

Hey, looks like the boot and shift knob unscrew together? is there aset screw or something? are the threads 'clocked'? how to reassemble without the knob pointing some odd direction?

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Knob runs into some plastic or rubber funnel, just tighten it until it feels right and align it.

If it's really sloppy, like inches wobbly when in gear, likely the shift linkage U joint.

Probably the most annoying part you'll run into is tapping out the 2 roll pins, especially with no lift.  If you're gonna be working on the floor, it's a good idea to wear a face shield.  Keeps dirt and hammers away.

This video is pretty complete on what you're planning to do.

 

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I learned a lot from YouTube videos- both the right ways and the wrong ways!

After having a very sloppy shifter in our’ 99 Forester, I looked for new bushings. I soon realized that the originals had disintegrated to the extent that one had completely disappeared!

At 30 notes for a new set I decided to make my own from some black PVC irrigation hose. I’m not a mega cheapskate but I do like to DIY what I feel is possible. Often it is more practical than driving into town and spending bills.

-Easy to make, and easy to install as long as you can safely lift the car a bit, and four years later the shift is still crisp. 
On the little subaru Vivio we had I made some bushings out of galvanized steel collars and washers. That really feels crisp!  I now have to make some more bushings for our new ‘00 Foz which is not really happy (now that I have fitted a stiffer Group N  transmission mount).

 Removal of the shifter linkage isn’t a big deal either, if you have some basic tools and some goggles!

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  • 2 months later...

All 4 bushings gone on the U-joint gadget - no trace of them. I upgraded most of the parts since I had it out - TiC bushings for the u-joint/trunnion, Prothane for the shifter 'stay' rod w'ever - front rounds AND the rear plug-in. The videos prepared me for a lot. I didn't remove heats shields but would highly recommend it. Make sure you put the car in 5th gear before starting this project. And you need to buy/get/create/'rig,' punches that are 9+ inches long really. I spent a lot of time on those roll pins.....that is a weird fastening approach, is it commonly used elsewhere?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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I bet that made a difference.

I have a set of drift punches of various diameters. Their body is 10mm hexagonal bar which of course sits in a 10mm box wrench, which fits on the box wrench extension bar which gives 12” of reach. A gentle taptaptap with a soft hammer and out come those pins.

You will find these pins fastening the driveshafts to the transaxle splines too.

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19 minutes ago, Mitchy said:

You will find these pins fastening the driveshafts to the transaxle splines too.

To insert those pins, they set into the female end of a 1/4 inch drive extension. And to remove them, my square body drift punches set into a 3/8 drive extension. Makes it real easy.

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That double roll pin arrangement on the selector shaft - ALWAYS remove the inner pin before attempting the outer pin! 

Ive seen this setup on just about all Subaru gearboxes, except the real old EA81 4spd boxes. They’ve usually dropped out or been replaced with a bolt  

Cheers 

Bennie

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