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20 minutes ago, heartless said:

i dont think so

they need to be flush with the surface or they might interfere

The original bolts have a curved head so their are not flush. Thought the older separator plate was fastened with bolts.

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6 hours ago, el_freddo said:

If you have a tin plate you might be able to do it. 

If you have the cast alloy plate, you’ll need the countersunk screws to make it all work with flywheel clearances etc. 

Cheers 

Bennie

This.

The cast alloy and plastic ones use countersunk hardware because the plate is much thicker.

The plate steel ones use a conventional bolt.

 

If you've got a dealer nearby, go spend $5 and get the right ones. The dealer I worked at always stocked a few sets as we would frequently retrofit the new plate in place of the plastic ones.

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