Olyroller83GL Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Whats up guys. I just did the head gaskets in my wife’s Loyale. Went to start it and nothing just a clicking noise. After checking grounds and what not I put a jumper wire between the positive terminal and the tab on the back of the starter solenoid and it fired right up. I checked the ignition switch wiring harness and it was melted this will be the third time I have replaced the ignition switch in about three years what could be causing it to short? Should I wire in a new switch? She wants to take it camping with her girlfriends this summer and I don’t want it breaking down on her. I have been looking for a wiring diagram but have struck out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 I would expect to see a blown fuse before something melts. Are there fuses that are bypassed ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Is the melting happening right at the switch? If so, then the contacts inside the switch are dirty and not making full contact and getting hot. Are you replacing the switch with used ones? If so, then same problem. Is the alternator charging at 13.8 volts or way higher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olyroller83GL Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 Everything looks like it did from the factory. The switch is less than a year old and there is continuity across the ignition wire. I have installed an new switch and same problem. Where the switch plugs in before going to the starter at the ignition wire I have 12 volts when the key is turned. When I turn the key I hear a click click click But I don’t get 12v to female connector that slides into the spade connector on the back of the starter solenoid. It is melting from where the constant 12v wire (is it supposed to always be hot?) connects to the key cylinder all the way to where it enters the wire connector going back to the battery and a little on the ignition wire going toward the starter. I don’t have a digital multimeter but it looked like about 13.8v from the battery with the engine running. All the fuses check out but I can’t find a fuse that has continuity with the ignition wire. i think a starter relay might help but I have zero volts at the starter solenoid. There must be a short between the ignition switch which is good and the starter. A 94 loyale spfi wiring diagram would help me track it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 The spade connector (small wire) on the back of the starter is the one that energizes the solenoid. It is fed 12V only when the key is in the starting position. There is a fusible link in the circuit between the battery and the ignition switch, no fuse in the fuse box. I have seen links to wiring diagrams, but don't know them. Any year from 86 through 94 SPFI should be very similar, especially for this part of the wiring. Simplease test - get a length of 12awg wire. Connect one end to the spade terminal on the back of the starter. Momentarily touch the other to the positive battery terminal. If it cranks, the starter is good, and the relay mod will likely fix it. If it clicks no crank, the contact in the solenoid is eroded down, and can be replaced. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Get a meter.They are like $10. You can`t work on cars w/o one. You don`t have a short.You have the opposite-a high resistance connection.Heat is generated there. " continuity across the ignition wire." What does that mean? 0 ohms?,1 ohm?,10 ohms? A poor connection at the connector is the source of your overheated wire.If you put a voltmeter across it,there will be a voltage drop under load. When you relpace the switch,the connection is still bad I recently replaced my ignition switch because of high contact resistance.I eliminated the connector at the same time by soldering the wires. ELIMINATE the CONNECTOR The ignition switch and all wiring needs to have very low resistance because both the solenoid and ignition coil have load resistances on the order of 1 ohm. An additional 1 ohm across the switch and connections means they see only 6 volts under load-not good. I measured up to 6 ohms across the ignition terminal of the switch depending on how you wiggled it. Ran quite well except for a cold misfire(surprising),but it is way better after switch replacement-silky smooth now. I had to make an ea81 tilt switch from a normal one by cutting off the tabs and soldering wires on ,but,that is another story. One wire IS hot all the time. If there is still nothing on the solenoid after repair,check the neutral safety or clutch switches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 9 hours ago, Olyroller83GL said: It is melting from where the constant 12v wire (is it supposed to always be hot?) connects to the key cylinder all the way to where it enters the wire connector going back to the battery and a little on the ignition wire going toward the starter. Yes one wire is always hot. 1 for ACC, 1 for IGN, 1 for START. If the insulation on the whole length of the wire from the switch to the connector is melting it makes me wonder if it is the proper gauge wire. Usually it only melts several inches from a corroded connection. As naru2 said, eliminate the connector. Inside the vehicle you can use wire nuts, but soldering is best. Also, bypassing IGN Switch Start with a push button or relay will relieve that load on the IGN switch. I have done in on our 95 and 97 Legacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olyroller83GL Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 It was the neutral switch on the clutch. Also I found the first connector between the positive battery terminal and the fuseable links was loose which was causing the extra heat and resistance in the ignition. (Loose wires cause fires they say) Now that I got it back on the road, when I have time I will install the starter relay I bought and eliminate the connector below the ignition switch like nuru2 suggested. Thanks everybody for all the help. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 The fuseble links are a huge pita in these old cars. You can swap them to female J case PAL fuses with a little mod to the holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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