Oil and Brakes Questions

[Daskuppler]

Hello Everyone,

 

I have a 2014 Subaru Forester non turbo.  The engine has consistently burned Mobile1 oil since I bought it a few years ago. Tried Amsoil and it did better but the engine still burned over a quart of oil over the change interval.  Subaru did an oil consumption test had no issues but did find a faulty PCV valve.  The valve was replaced and the car still burns Mobile 1. It does not appear to burn Subaru oil which is fine, it's just difficult to get for me.  Has anyone had a similar problem and found an oil that works?

 

Also, the front brakes are due for replacement.  Would I notice much improvement going with an EBC pad and/or drilled/slotted rotors?  The car frequents the mountains with heavy loads.  Comparison would be to premium autoparts store pads and standard rotors.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

Edited March 5, 2020 by Daskuppler

[1 Lucky Texan]

unlikely the rotors will help much IMHO - fresh fluid  is important as old brake fluid has a reduced boiling point due to moisture.

many people like EBC. I run Stoptech Street Performance (they have a different name now?) and they are good value for an upgraded pad. Long-lasting, noise free, great 'cold bite', good modulation, etc. Higher MOT than Hawk.

[idosubaru]

oil - use thicker oil.  Do not run that 0W and I wouldn’t even run 5W.  Just keep topping it off and it’ll be fine.  

is the Subaru oil actually using less or are you getting it changed at Subaru and they’re adding a little over the fill mark?

Rotors are pointless to replace on subarus.  

pads - get Subaru pad clips and grease the pins with high end grease suitable for slide pin bushings, not generic caliper grease. those are the two most important items that cause 75%+ of the failures and issues I see and no one freaking talks about them and jabbers on over benign pad brand EBC stupidity  and rotors which barely even matter for daily drivers.  

pad brand is not noticeable unless you’re racing. I tow waaay over the tow limits and various brake pad brands make zero diffenrce for average daily driver use and heavy towing in mountains on 6% highway grades.  Get Subaru pad kits with new pad clips. They’re excellent quality and the clips are superior than most others which tend to rust.  The Subaru ones don’t.

GD uses Bosch Quietcast (you can check hes mentioned it before) in his shop and he’d have probably the best data driven choices in that regard on this forum. I use them from time to time and the pads are fine.  He’s in Oregon and doesn’t have rust concerns. 
 

but they’re pad clips rust much quicker than OEM so if you’re in rust prone areas I’d go with Subaru pad kits or use Subaru clips with whatever pads you want.  I’ve seen this with multiple pad clip brands and haven’t narrowed down any that stave off rust like OEM Subaru ones. 

Edited March 5, 2020 by idosubaru

[Daskuppler]

3 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

unlikely the rotors will help much IMHO - fresh fluid  is important as old brake fluid has a reduced boiling point due to moisture.

many people like EBC. I run Stoptech Street Performance (they have a different name now?) and they are good value for an upgraded pad. Long-lasting, noise free, great 'cold bite', good modulation, etc. Higher MOT than Hawk.

The fluid is fairly new, about a year old and is Amsoil. I guess I'll just stick with the usual premium pads and rotors from the local auto parts store.

I'll be honest with the oil, I never verified what Subaru put in our what they never was when I returned the the second check. I did run another 4000 miles before the oil change which would have been enough to burn close to a quart and it was not low. I'd rather not have to add oil consistently on an engine with 65000 miles.

 

[idosubaru]

Agreed you shouldn’t and sorry you bought in during the low friction ring, 0W oil industry wide learning curve. Manufacturers adapted and you’ve got a test mule.

Use thicker oil unless you’re still under an extended warranty. After that - use thicker synthetic oil. Id use 10, GD says use 5W and has far more experience than I.   You’ll loose 0.04% in gas mileage, yawn  

or review the extended warranty and see if you’re still covered, and use that thin 0W to see if youll hit consumption high enough for a new block.  I see you had it tested once, doesn’t mean you can’t again. 
 

Shops/dealers have been known to fill the oil above the line so you never notice it low. Check it after your next change and see if it’s at the mark or not.