Wannabebrat Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 7 hours ago, naru2 said: The ignition switch does not switch the tach signal to the FPCU. Your test light should pulse while cranking w/it is on the yellow FPCU wire. You need 12V at the FPCU. The switch in your link is an ea82 switch.They only have one mounting hole and may be otherwise different. Rockauto has ea81 switches.Tilt wheel switches w/a short harness are NLA.You need to cut the tabs off a normal one and solder wires on like I did. Okay so you're saying it doesn't power the FPCU but if I replace the switch as original that should solve my problem with the fuel pump not getting power? I guess what I'm asking is what's missing from the switch setup now that maybe causing the fuel pump not to get power? also the housing is completely empty you can see it in one of the pics, and there is nowhere currently to put a key in the original switch housing. Most of what I found online seems to be a new switch electronics with wiring connector but nowhere to put a key. I was assuming a new lock cylinder would plug into the new switch and I need both is that correct? Looks like it could take up to a week so I want to get them ordered right away. Just so I can continue my education, if the switch doesn't send a signal to the FPCU then how is the switch related to the operation of the fuel pump? Also I don't mind going to RockAuto but with the switch in the link I posted not work? Looks like it would screw right into the back of the switch housing and already has a harness that can be hooked up to the other side of the factory pink harness that is there.....is there something I'm missing? Just so you guys know I've been up late hours every night studying and reading previous posts from the forum to try to learn as much as I can before I ask for your time and responding. I've learned a lot and already picked up a few things that should help quite a bit with future projects on the brat so thanks! I'll double check and make sure there is a pulse coming off the test light at the ignition coil. If not what should be my next step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 7 hours ago, naru2 said: The ignition switch does not switch the tach signal to the FPCU. Your test light should pulse while cranking w/it is on the yellow FPCU wire. You need 12V at the FPCU. The switch in your link is an ea82 switch.They only have one mounting hole and may be otherwise different. Rockauto has ea81 switches.Tilt wheel switches w/a short harness are NLA.You need to cut the tabs off a normal one and solder wires on like I did. Sorry I meant check for pulse at the yellow wire on the FPCU, I also read you give the same advice to someone in another post about checking at the ignition coil as well I'll do both. I'm assuming if I have it at the yellow wire ignition coil should be good. but I definitely agree with you switch needs to be changed anyway so I'm going to order it right away just want to make sure it's the right one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Your coil is good, because the engine ran when you hot wired the fuel pump. I think what naru2 wants to know is, are the same pulses going to the coil also coming in on the yellow wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 1 hour ago, Wannabebrat said: Okay so you're saying it doesn't power the FPCU but if I replace the switch as original that should solve my problem with the fuel pump not getting power? I guess what I'm asking is what's missing from the switch setup now that maybe causing the fuel pump not to get power? also the housing is completely empty you can see it in one of the pics, and there is nowhere currently to put a key in the original switch housing. Most of what I found online seems to be a new switch electronics with wiring connector but nowhere to put a key. I was assuming a new lock cylinder would plug into the new switch and I need both is that correct? Looks like it could take up to a week so I want to get them ordered right away. Just so I can continue my education, if the switch doesn't send a signal to the FPCU then how is the switch related to the operation of the fuel pump? Also I don't mind going to RockAuto but with the switch in the link I posted not work? Looks like it would screw right into the back of the switch housing and already has a harness that can be hooked up to the other side of the factory pink harness that is there.....is there something I'm missing? Just so you guys know I've been up late hours every night studying and reading previous posts from the forum to try to learn as much as I can before I ask for your time and responding. I've learned a lot and already picked up a few things that should help quite a bit with future projects on the brat so thanks! I'll double check and make sure there is a pulse coming off the test light at the ignition coil. If not what should be my next step? What is missing is a good connection between the 12V output of your switch(you have 12 there right?) and the 8V measurement at the FPCU. Yes you need both.I do not know where to get a lock cylinder other than used. I am not sure if the ea82 switch fits or not-likely does. Ignition pulses from coil negative on the yellow are the trigger.The ignition switch supplies 12V to the FPCU for the fuel pump When the FPCU is triggered,the pump sees 12V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 This is correct for an 84 Brat w/tilt.Probably yours too.You get the switch,cylinder,and the aluminum housing. Punch the part number into goggle for more options. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Ignition-Switch-783121210-/173202088170 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 On 3/22/2020 at 8:11 PM, naru2 said: What is missing is a good connection between the 12V output of your switch(you have 12 there right?) and the 8V measurement at the FPCU. Yes you need both.I do not know where to get a lock cylinder other than used. I am not sure if the ea82 switch fits or not-likely does. Ignition pulses from coil negative on the yellow are the trigger.The ignition switch supplies 12V to the FPCU for the fuel pump When the FPCU is triggered,the pump sees 12V Got the pulse...hoping everything is gonna be good when I get the switch....pretty sure I got the lock cylinder from ebay....we'll see if it all comes together. Working on the brakes now. If the switch works and I take care of a few other odds and ends I should be able to get her on the road soon. Any good thread suggestions on brake jobs? Having trouble getting new calipers quickly....any ideas where I could get some? What repair manuals do you guys suggest for these things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I much prefer the factory service manuals, but I got them when the cars were only a couple years old.... Now, you have to watch ebay, and these forums for anyone deciding to move onto newer vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Yea I totally get that. I will keep an eye out thanks for the tip. Anything I can use to get by for basic stuff? Working on the brakes now and I can probably figure them out but it would be nice to have something vehicle specific to go by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 If you’re keeping stock brakes any 80-84 factory service manual will help. The Brat ran longer as did the Hatchback. But the 80-84 cars are the core. Any of those manuals will help. There are Brat or MPV Supplements to the FSM’s you may find. But for the engine and drivetrain the regular car manual has you covered. Guys like me are out there on eBay. Dedicated hobbyist selling off their “hoarded stash” . With me it’s the 70’s. I don’t have much 80’s at all. But I do see a guy selling 80’s NOS and there’s often good used items from guys like you and me. Ebay can be tricky sometimes. But at least with 70’s and 80’s parts you can bet it’s not some copy and is totally authentic. Hunting for rear disk brakes too ? Turbo models will have those and later Loyale Turbos. Enjoy ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Go to the following web site and save the Factory Service Manual - "1983 Subaru EA81.pdf" file. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. In the menu that pops up, move the cursor to "Save Target As" and click the left mouse button. A window will open and you can select or make a folder to save it in on your pc. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ There is a lot of stuff on that site. When you click on a folder and then want to go back, click on Parent Directory. You mentioned brakes, they are in Chapter 10. It's a long document so the scroll bar will be small. Move it about half way down. The page numbers at the bottom of each page will be 10-1 etc. I use Acrobat Reader DC to view pdf files. It's free. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 On 3/25/2020 at 9:50 PM, moosens said: If you’re keeping stock brakes any 80-84 factory service manual will help. The Brat ran longer as did the Hatchback. But the 80-84 cars are the core. Any of those manuals will help. There are Brat or MPV Supplements to the FSM’s you may find. But for the engine and drivetrain the regular car manual has you covered. Guys like me are out there on eBay. Dedicated hobbyist selling off their “hoarded stash” . With me it’s the 70’s. I don’t have much 80’s at all. But I do see a guy selling 80’s NOS and there’s often good used items from guys like you and me. Ebay can be tricky sometimes. But at least with 70’s and 80’s parts you can bet it’s not some copy and is totally authentic. Hunting for rear disk brakes too ? Turbo models will have those and later Loyale Turbos. Enjoy ! Awesome thanks for the tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 So update time On 3/25/2020 at 10:39 PM, Rampage said: Go to the following web site and save the Factory Service Manual - "1983 Subaru EA81.pdf" file. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. In the menu that pops up, move the cursor to "Save Target As" and click the left mouse button. A window will open and you can select or make a folder to save it in on your pc. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ There is a lot of stuff on that site. When you click on a folder and then want to go back, click on Parent Directory. You mentioned brakes, they are in Chapter 10. It's a long document so the scroll bar will be small. Move it about half way down. The page numbers at the bottom of each page will be 10-1 etc. I use Acrobat Reader DC to view pdf files. It's free. Perfect thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 So update time! I finally received the new switch....I ordered the one with the wire harness attached from parts geek....and of course it didn't fit. After waiting for the part and time to work on it I was a little frustrated. I started messing with the old switch and it appears that a previous owner either used the switch wiring that was original and just stuck it in the new housing, or it just happens to fit, either way I got the switch in the original housing that was left there hollow. My other brat has a torn up switch where someone tried to steal it at some point and it starts and runs fine (with a screw driver) so I compared it to the 85 with the start problem. The only difference I could find is a small connecter in the switch housing with a blue and yellow wire that run to a green connecter. After repairing the switch nothing...still wouldn't start, after unplugging the green connect so it matched the 86 that runs, boom fired right up. So my question is...what is this? Do I need it? Fuel pump only seems to run when starting and running the car, and fpcu seems to be working fine so what I'm I messing? I have included pictures. Also, on the switch...is there somewhere its possible to find a lock cylinder replacement or something aftermarket that would work...or could I possible rob the one from the ea82 switch I have? Thought I found a couple on ebay but something is weird because it won't let me purchase them. But right now I have 2 cars that run off screw drivers so it would be to get them back to keys without spending a couple hundred bucks a piece. Replacing all the brakes now....got everything down to the axels...just waiting on parts to finish. With any luck I will be driving a brat this weekend!!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/8xEYd3XWgXVoBr8w6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 On 3/25/2020 at 9:50 PM, moosens said: If you’re keeping stock brakes any 80-84 factory service manual will help. The Brat ran longer as did the Hatchback. But the 80-84 cars are the core. Any of those manuals will help. There are Brat or MPV Supplements to the FSM’s you may find. But for the engine and drivetrain the regular car manual has you covered. Guys like me are out there on eBay. Dedicated hobbyist selling off their “hoarded stash” . With me it’s the 70’s. I don’t have much 80’s at all. But I do see a guy selling 80’s NOS and there’s often good used items from guys like you and me. Ebay can be tricky sometimes. But at least with 70’s and 80’s parts you can bet it’s not some copy and is totally authentic. Hunting for rear disk brakes too ? Turbo models will have those and later Loyale Turbos. Enjoy ! Hey so I looked up a conversion manual from this site and it appears the backing plate is the main part and everything else is pretty similar...I was able to find rotors for the front pretty easy, and finally got some new calipers on the way. So if I can find the backing and mounting plate could I find most of the other parts after market so its all new stuff? What model turbo would you recommend to use for the conversion? Like a popular model that may have more aftermarket options. I have already ordered stuff to replace the rear brakes...new shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, everything I could find replacements for....but I could always take them back if the conversion stuff is easy to find. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 I’ve been out of the 80’s game for some time now. But it’s not like there’s a lot out there so whichever you come across first. Any 80’s turbo will have rear disk brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 You’re after a 4wd rear disc setup. The2wd rear disc hub won’t fit the 4wd. Everything else is basically the same. The 2wd backing plate is only different in the hole for the bearing to pass through. The key is the 4wd rear disc hub. Cheers Bennie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Right , thanks for straightening that out. 2wd save for the 70’s cars. Lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 On 3/31/2020 at 2:48 AM, Wannabebrat said: So update time! I finally received the new switch....I ordered the one with the wire harness attached from parts geek....and of course it didn't fit. After waiting for the part and time to work on it I was a little frustrated. I started messing with the old switch and it appears that a previous owner either used the switch wiring that was original and just stuck it in the new housing, or it just happens to fit, either way I got the switch in the original housing that was left there hollow. My other brat has a torn up switch where someone tried to steal it at some point and it starts and runs fine (with a screw driver) so I compared it to the 85 with the start problem. The only difference I could find is a small connecter in the switch housing with a blue and yellow wire that run to a green connecter. After repairing the switch nothing...still wouldn't start, after unplugging the green connect so it matched the 86 that runs, boom fired right up. So my question is...what is this? Do I need it? Fuel pump only seems to run when starting and running the car, and fpcu seems to be working fine so what I'm I messing? I have included pictures. Also, on the switch...is there somewhere its possible to find a lock cylinder replacement or something aftermarket that would work...or could I possible rob the one from the ea82 switch I have? Thought I found a couple on ebay but something is weird because it won't let me purchase them. But right now I have 2 cars that run off screw drivers so it would be to get them back to keys without spending a couple hundred bucks a piece. Replacing all the brakes now....got everything down to the axels...just waiting on parts to finish. With any luck I will be driving a brat this weekend!!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/8xEYd3XWgXVoBr8w6 does anybody have any idea why the connector pictured was keeping my car from running? It's running now which is great but I'd like to know why it wouldn't run with that connector hooked up for the future.... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 21 hours ago, moosens said: I’ve been out of the 80’s game for some time now. But it’s not like there’s a lot out there so whichever you come across first. Any 80’s turbo will have rear disk brakes. I guess I should have been more clear, I don't know Jack about Subarus! this is my first one lol. I'll put it this way if name and '80s model turbo was final Jeopardy I would be SOL. I can do some research and find a list I'm sure, I just didn't know if they were popular models that may be more likely to be found in junk yards or find aftermarket parts for. Thanks again for the help I'll start looking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 So I just hooked the fuel pump back up that was hanging for testing reasons, once I got it connected to the bracket and everything set up ready for a test drive the car wouldn't start anymore.... Any ideas with that clip is on the ignition switch housing? I'm thinking it may be a grounding issue since the only thing that seems to have changed is the fuel pump body touching the bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabebrat Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Update: sooooo, after reading another forum about ignition lock cylinder replacement I was able to remove the lock cylinder from the ea82 switch I had, and put it in the ea81 housing that was on the car. The ignition switch matched perfectly, and well as the lock cylinder. The only problem was the small "dog bone" piece of metal that turns the ignition switch when the key is turned. The original was just to short, but I was able to fabricate a similar piece that was just a bit longer with some scrape metal and a grinder. Now the ignition takes a key and turns over just like a real car! I will try to post pics later. I did use the drilling the small pin method and just replaced that with a small screw. Also as far as the fuel pump....it has been working fine. I believe my original problem was in the fuel pump wiring harness, not the blue and yellow wire harness that runs to the ignition switch. Best I can tell that harness that leads to the switch is just a door chime of some kind and is not necessary. After driving the car around the farm a little I had a fuel problem again...so I used the wires I had ran to bypass everything and hook fp straight to the batt and boom fired right up. So when I got it home I adjusted the prongs on the fp wire harness coming from the car and cleaned it really good. Hooked it back up and its been working ever since....knock on wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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