2009 Forester won't turn over after engine swap

[pblanton]

I have a 2009 Subaru Forester. It spun a bearing so I replaced the engine with a new short-block.

I removed the old engine, and stripped it down to the short block, then put all of the heads and intake and everything on the new engine and dropped it back in. All of the wires and harness connectors are back together. The engine ground is connected and the chassis ground is connected.

When I turn the key on, the dash behaves normally but I do NOT hear a whine from the fuel pump.

When I try to crank it, it will not. No click, nothing. I hear no relays clicking or anything. The car acts like I am not turning the key to the engine start position.

• Battery is fully charged and checks out.
• Continuity from the battery's positive terminal to the starter is good.
• Continuity from the alternator to the battery is good.
• All of the fuses are good.
• Voltage on the small, trigger wire to the starter is 8.7 Volts when trying to start; Negligible when the key is on but not trying to start.
• The starter spins when I jump the two large connectors on it so I know the starter motor works.

The turbocharger intercooler is not on yet. I just wanted to make sure it cranked and wanted to start before I put it on, so I can easily reach the starter.

Same with the piece of exhaust pipe that contains the catalytic convertor. The exhaust pipe to the turbo is connected, as are all sensors (the exhaust is laying under the car so that the sensor wire will reach)

Engine is full of oil, and coolant. No leaks.

There are no missing, or disconnected electrical connectors or hoses. Everything went back to where it was when I began this journey.

For what it's worth, it started and ran (knocking like hell) before I removed the engine. I drove it into the garage to work on it. The engine has been out for two years and the battery has been removed and sitting on a bench with a trickle-charger / conditioner connected to it. The battery is in great condition.

Any ideas on why the fuel pump doesn't run and the starter doesn't come in, would be much appreciated.

[lmdew]

Check the small single connector on the back of the starter.

Did you turn the engine over by hand?  I suspect the first, since you are not hearing a click.

[1 Lucky Texan]

cycle the fob a coupla times, maybe it thinks it's stolen or the battery was stolen?

[pblanton]

1 hour ago, lmdew said:

Check the small single connector on the back of the starter.

Did you turn the engine over by hand?  I suspect the first, since you are not hearing a click.

Yes. The engine turns freely. We turned it when we were setting up the timing belt, and also when connecting the flywheel to the torque convertor.

As I said in my post, the small connector to the starter has negligible voltage on it at rest, and 8.7 volts when trying to start.

[pblanton]

1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

cycle the fob a coupla times, maybe it thinks it's stolen or the battery was stolen?

This is where I am coming down as well. It does have the anti-theft system as well as the remote start. I just didn't know what to do to get the anti-theft to release... or even how to tell it is engaged.

[pblanton]

I cycled the key fob a few rimes. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock lock lock beep! Unlock the rear hatch.

Still won't start.

[brus brother]

any beeps or honks?

 

[pblanton]

17 hours ago, brus brother said:

<video>

any beeps or honks?

 

Yes. The car beeps and honks like the video shows. Still no start. However, there is a mention of a "Hood Pin Switch". We haven't yet put the hood back on yet. Would that prevent me from starting it with a key? 

I found the hood-pin switch and taped it down. No change.

Edited April 16, 2020 by pblanton

[Mike104]

I think the 8.7 Volts at the small pin of the starter is your issue.  Take a 1/4" female spade connector and crimp it to a 10-12 guage wire and then touch the other end (strip some of the insulation) to the positive terminal of your battery

 

Edited April 16, 2020 by Mike104