Ionstorm66 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Trying to do pads and rotors on my 92 Loyale, and I cant get the axles out of the front hubs. I took the sway bar and lower ball joint out. Removed the roll pin from the transmission, and pulled axle off so the inner is free. Stuck the lower ball joint in, removed the castle nut and flat washer. I can't get the axle to come out of the hub. The cone washer isnt budging, and im wailing on it with a 10# sledge. Almost knocked it clean off the jack stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 (edited) Just kept beating and it came out. I ended up putting the wheel back on in case it fell over! Also I order new seals. The front outers i got are single lip with no dust shield! Left WJB WS225230 = Bad! Single lip no dust shield Right BECK/ARNLEY 0522227 = OEM double lip with dust shield Edited May 7, 2020 by Ionstorm66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 sometimes they're rusted so bad they won't come out. use a press or heat. if you smash the axle too hard it'll mushroom the threads and won't be able to pull through the hub until you cut/grind the end of the axle. then the first 1-7 threads will be smashed tigther together and won't be reusable unless go through inordinate effort to reform/rechase axle threads which are huge and not available as dies. even if you're not reusing the axle, my point is that they can be very difficult to remove. a press or heat or continue to bash it with your sledge and plan on cutting/grinding the ends off so it can slide through. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 38 minutes ago, Numbchux said: future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama. I broke two off in it and had the chisel them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Excellent glad you got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Passenger side went without issue. As soon as a popped the lower ball joint out, she wiggled right out of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 The thing I found most effective and least destructive is to use a piece of rod or bar stock as a drift. Like 1/2" round, or 1/2"x1". Something beefy about that size. One end against the face of the washer, hit the other with a 1-2 lb hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhelme Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 The question I have is if he was simply doing pads and rotors why did need to remove the axle and knuckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 4 hours ago, silverhelme said: The question I have is if he was simply doing pads and rotors why did need to remove the axle and knuckle? You have to remove the cone nut the free up the hub. I removed the lower ball joint so when i hammed the axle inwards, I didn't drive it into the transmission. On the passenger side it came out with a light tap, didn't have to loosen the knuckle or axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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