Cam [Rockers, HLA, and Valves]

[rickyhils]

I have just removed and inspected cam, rockers, HLAs, and valve ends on the left side of a 1991 Loyale SPFI non-turbo. Will get this all back together today and then just be happy that this rebuilt long block runs as well as it has over the past few weeks. I just felt better in double checking that left cam tower. Now it's time to just drive it.

* Cam shaft turns smooth and solid using fingers.

* All oil holes are clear and that banjo bolt oil spray assembly is clean and the long spring is doing it's job. So, at higher rpm (and higher oil pressure) more oil squirts directly on each cam lobe? I'm impressed.

* HLAs feel hard and cannot be depressed with using only fingers. In a vise they did start to ooze out oil at the hole. So, all good on the HLAs as tested? My old engine w 326k miles had HLAs that would easily compress using just fingers. And in a cup of oil they would not pump up at all.

* Valve end. Only one valve looks like the measurement from the keeper to the valve tip is not exactly as the other three. There is a pic here of that. Would guess that it is no issue. Anyway, all valve springs are there.

* No remarkable wear marks at rocker/cam lobe areas. That's after maybe a cumulative 10 hours of idling over the past two weeks and 20 miles of local driving. I did not "baby" the acceleration. I just drove it like it should be driven. And the oil [10W-40] has been closely checked over the past two weeks.

* It seems like EA82 rockers have a minuscule "barely perceptible" horizontal flat spot about in the center of where they contact the cam lobe. It can be felt using bare fingers. Am not concerned, but just asking.

* And, just curious. Looks like all EA82 cam lobes have a little steep "bump" in the curve just as they reach full height. I guess that is part of the standard cam lobe design.

  Now, time to put it back together and drive. And I will NOT forget that "o" ring [Subaru OEM] where cam meets the head.

 

Edited June 4, 2020 by rickyhils
Fix photos, mention "o" ring.

[mka]

Having just gone through an EA82 rebuild myself (the cause of which was mostly valve-related), i would highly recommend you make sure that valve is not bent, sticking, or mis-seated. There's a chance that can start a cascade of pretty gnarly failures. Easy enough to take the springs and keepers off to see how the valve moves in its bore.

 

That being my $0.02, i'd also wait for someone with more than one rebuild under their belt to chime in. 

Edited June 4, 2020 by mka

[DaveT]

I just looked at one of the heads I have laying around...  The 4 valves should all be the same height.  I just put a straight edge on the ends.  That one looking short, seems odd.  I've had a few of these apart, never noticed them looking different like that.

[rickyhils]

I am all for checking that valve. I will devise a way to compress the spring safely. And at least the cam carrier is still off the engine.

Three or so weeks ago I had ZERO compression in cyl #2. The reason was a straddling rocker on . . . you guessed it, exhaust valve on cyl #2! The same valve in question here. Right now I am a bit bothered that I did not put 2 and 2 together on this. But thanks mka and Dave T for making more sense than I seemed to have been able to muster up. Will get to checking that valve now. Will put some rope into cyl #2 and bring compression stroke comes up as I don't have compressed air otherwise . 

[el_freddo]

Rope trick works mint. Just be sure to tie the end to something or a massive knot in its end so it can’t fall into the cylinder. 

Hope it all checks out ok. You’re certainly more dedicated to this than I am! 

Cheers 

Bennie

edit: I should say “would be”, not am...

Edited June 5, 2020 by el_freddo

[rickyhils]

 Bennie- the rope trick worked way good just now, Thank You. Hey, my goal is to simply NOT get stranded with a dead engine on my hands and have the hassle of getting it towed back home. And THAT, my friends, is what motivates me now. I also have a 97 Honda Accord 5 spd 2.2 non-vtec that runs well but I like this Loyale 5 spd of the post GL vintage.  It's a wagon and it's so easy to load up and go. Sure I will have to downshift on a grade but WHO CARES?? Don't need no stinking EJ PITA swap. And I pass California smog with flying colors. And the timing belts? OK, I think I would really like pushrods better, but I am getting close to being a TB and a c/v axle expert on this car. ha ha . OK, I know that the EA82 is a "dead puppy" but I know more of what to have on hand to get a bunch more years out of this car.

  And the findings from my efforts an hour ago are: The exhaust valve in question is OK. It turns and pushes in/out smooth as you want. And it seats [pulls out] closed with a solid "bottom feel" with no crusty bits to add a shred of doubt. And that OEM tiny spring around the the valve guide seal looks new.

  So, why the missing 5/64 of an inch on the length? Was the grind deeper on the other valve seats? And won't the HLA just take up the slack? Rebuild history is 100% an UNKNOWN. And the power on acceleration is what is should be, and it hums all the way up to 4500 rpm,  but I try to stay around 3k or 3.2k max on the highway.

If it idles on the slightly rough side then I'll keep at it.

Edited June 5, 2020 by rickyhils
text color

[Step-a-toe]

I would feel better if they were all at the same level, as I think I recall this being good practice. I would wonder if valve seat was cut deeper why not the valve tip ground down to suit?

[DaveT]

EA82s are good for 4000rpm on the highway.   Not a problem. 

[rickyhils]

Yeah. Totally NOT good practice, as a rule. But should not the HLA take up the slack? Anyhow, before I button it back up I'll also check the other three valves on that side.

And yeah, higher rpm nothing to be squeamish about. 4,000 ok. And up to 5,000 it has been while accelerating. But it is FWD so it will never be a good "Trash Wagon". ha ha ha