Minimum tools for front wheel bearing change?

[ThosL]

My right side front bearing went two years ago.  The other side just went out, not safe to drive now.  

I parked the car on the way to work, in a church lot, called my insurance covered tow company.

I had two tows through my Nationwide care insurance; they use a company called "Agero";  

 

This is the second time I used their contact and tow service.  The first time two years ago with a vehicle break down on the highway involved a tow to Norwalk and the tow service driver tried to shake me down for an additional substantial amount of money.   

 

Yesterday I contacted them at around 4pm for a 730 pm tow.  Plenty of time, I received no service and waited a long time and could wait no longer.  At 830pm I called them again and was told it would be 90 minutes before the tow company arrived!!!    How do I report this company to a state agency?  I have never had a similar problem with AAA!

 

Mechanics I contacted can't get to it until the end of the week.

 

What are the minimum in tools if I do it myself?  1997 Legacy Outback Limited.  I called around from a front spindle, nothing local available.  A parts finder service found one in NH, delays, I can't wait until next week. 

 

What risk would I be taking with a pressed in bearing in front?  On rears I had a local shop replace the bearings and they failed within 2 years.  I replaced them with rear hub assemblys used at a different shop.

 

Edited June 23, 2020 by ThosL

[Numbchux]

Lots of variables, and things can go wrong. Separating the ball joint in areas prone to rust can devolve into a several day battle without the right tools and experience.

A hub tamer can theoretically (I've never used one) remove the bearing with the knuckle on the car, but I think you have to remove the axle, which is 95% of the work.

32mm socket for the axle nut. 14 and 17 for the brake rotor, 19 (I think) for the strut bolts (you'll need 2, do undo both sides). Pliers for split pins in tie rod end and ball joint. 14 or 17mm for castle nuts. BFH and various pry bars to separate TRE and BJ from knuckle/control arm. Then a press and assorted accessories to remove and install the bearing and seals.

Edited June 23, 2020 by Numbchux

[ThosL]

Ok, so this is beyond my capability.  Last time something got damaged when they were trying to get the balljoint out  and they had to order extra parts.

I checked Rock Auto which is running slow because of covid; even Fed Ex overnight is 3 days, Friday at earliest.  

I checked around for used spindles and no one locally had one.  Found one yard in Hartford area that has one on the shelf with a lot of rust, probably ok otherwise.  

How do you know if the hub is damaged?

Edited June 23, 2020 by ThosL

[Rampage]

7 hours ago, ThosL said:

How do you know if the hub is damaged?

The only place I've seen real damage on a hub is the surface that is pressed into the two inner races of the wheel bearing. When the wheel bearing goes bad the rollers tend to bite and cause the inner races to spin on the hub making two grooves in the hub. You won't see that unless you press it out.

If you find a used steering knuckle ( FSM calls it a Housing) ask them to leave the wheel bearing, hub and the ball joint in it because the bearing is what you need.

If you find one and replace it, Mark the top bolt (adjustment bolt) where it mounts to the strut. I use a hammer and a small chisel to make a mark on the flange of the bolt head and the strut underneath it. Or, use a center punch. When putting it together line up the marks. The lower bolt is a regular bolt. It may or may not need a wheel alignment afterwards.

If you can, get Subaru wheel bearing and seals and hub (I use the Dorman brand hub) to repair the old knuckle so it is ready when the used one fails.

I tried 2 different brands of aftermarket wheel bearings with new hubs on the right front of our 95 RHD Legacy Wagon and they lasted 3 to 14 days. I put in 3 of the one brand, then I got a knuckle from a yard and that lasted over a year.

The Subaru bearings (both sides) have been in for close to 10 years now. I needed them for our 97 RHD Legacy Wagon. The dealer did not have them on hand and said to go to napa. They have been in for 2 and a half years now and seem fine.

Both cars are rural mail cars. The 95 has 473 k miles on it and the left rear wheel bearing is still the original.

[lmdew]

www.car-part.com

Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.

[idosubaru]

1 hour ago, lmdew said:

www.car-part.com

Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.

What he said. 

You can use 00-04 outback/legacy knuckles as well but the ABS won't work because the sensor and tone ring are different.  But it'll run and drive fine otherwise.

[Numbchux]

19 hours ago, ThosL said:

How do you know if the hub is damaged?

You won't know for sure until it's apart. But generally only when the bearing is completely blown (like, picking rollers out of the snow...ask me how I know )

[idosubaru]

If the hub has been in there for years and 30,000+ miles, and it hasn’t been driven with bad bearings for a long time then it’s likely fine. 

if a press is used haphazardly the hub can be damaged.  this isn’t likely the case though if the bearing has been in place for a long time. 

[Mike104]

I have a drivers side knuckle assembly with new bearing, new seals, new hub and new ball joint if you still need it